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Samwise

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  1. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Kevas in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  2. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from 7858 in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Thank you so much for the responses you guys! I'm really honored you like what I wrote. I've copied the tutorial over to a google drive document, and reformatted it slightly to read better on a wider scale, to make it shareable and downloadable. Let me know if you have any issues viewing it or saving it for yourself! 
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cTrzWWqTVNU5toUlIua5o0Sv_9oH6TL4j0beoQ52YNs/edit?usp=sharing
  3. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from 7858 in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    No problem! I'm ALMOST done! 
    I was so heartbroken when my boots were too tall, I took them to a few cobblers and was turned away, I called every other cobbler in town and none of them would alter the boots, so I decided I had to do it myself. I know it seems intimating, because it was to me, so I wanted to make sure everyone else knows it's do-able! 
  4. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from 7858 in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Step Eleven:
    Time for finishing touches! I have two, both are optional, but they help! Please do this after 24 hours. I don't exactly know if there's any risk to doing this near fresh e6000 but let's just not risk it please? 

    If you still have some fly-aways around the edges of your boot, despite waxing, you can take a lighter (long lighters are best) and VERY QUICKLY sweep the flame along the inside edge of your boots to burn them away. Do not, I repeat, do not hold the flame steady against your boot for any length of time. Do this in small sections where it's needed, and keep the flame in constant motion. (This is why the flame isn't touching the boot in the photo) 


    Next you can condition your boots! I was given this wax to treat a set of leather armor I bought, since I already had it on hand I used it on the boots which had some bad wrinkles already from being walked in. I applied the wax with a paper towel in circular motions and it immediately made the wrinkles look better. 

    Don’t feel obligated to use this exact brand, I just happened to have it, feel free to shop around! Just make sure you’re not using a hard wax polish in this area, it can make the bends appear worse!



    Now it's finally time! You are done! Admire your glorious boots! Take good care of them and they'll last a while! 

  5. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from doc1863 in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    No problem! I'm ALMOST done! 
    I was so heartbroken when my boots were too tall, I took them to a few cobblers and was turned away, I called every other cobbler in town and none of them would alter the boots, so I decided I had to do it myself. I know it seems intimating, because it was to me, so I wanted to make sure everyone else knows it's do-able! 
  6. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from TK1571 in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  7. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Plouf in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    I bought a pair of boots from this listing on ebay. The lining was faux leather and flaking badly (as old faux leather does) and the shafts were about 2" too tall. But the price was too good, so I decided I needed to modify them myself, I wanted to make a tutorial in case anyone else finds themselves in a similar situation. It's so difficult to find the perfect boots, I don't want the height of the shafts to stop anyone from affordable boots. 

    You will need: 
    fabric measuring tape
    seam ripper
    painters tape
    REALLY sharp scissors (brand recommendation below)
    sand paper
    black leather dye (brand recommendation below)
    plastic cup you don't care about
    few q-tips
    brick of wax (brand recommendation below)
    leather slicker
    waxed thread OR heavy duty thread
    sewing needle (preferably on the long-ish side.
    e6000
    2 plastic or metal clips/clamps (clothespins will work too)

    Optional:
    lighter
    leather dressing


    Step One:
    You need to take your measurements to find out how much needs to be cut off the boot. With your foot flat on the ground, measure from the bottom of your heel to roughly an inch below where your knee bends. Note - if the boot meets the area where your knee bends, or extends past it, it will prohibit you from walking. You do not want that to happen! With the measuring tape held in place, give your knee a bend to make sure it does not jab you in the back of the knee. If it does, re-take your measurement a little lower until you can bend your knee comfortably. 

    Now, measure the back of the boot from the bottom of the heel (ABOVE THE SOLE) to the top ridge. 
    Subtract your first measurement from the second and that should give you the amount that needs to be cut off the boot. 
    For me, my leg measured 15.5" from heel to below the back of my knee, and my boot measured 17.5" so I needed to remove 2". 
    Remember your number, you will need it in a couple steps! 

    Step Two: 
    Now you need to prepare your boot to be trimmed. Your dressage riding boot probably has a leather strip that runs along the back seam. We want to carefully preserve this strip, because we'll need it to go back into place after we have trimmed the boot. So, with your trusty seam-ripper in hand, carefully pick out the stitching at the top, and on either side. You only need to pick out the stitching an inch or so past your trim measurement. So for me, I picked out about 3" of stitching. 



    Now you can carefully peel back the strip to reveal the seam of the boot. I have drawn an arrow to point out some creasing in the leather. This is pretty difficult to avoid, you do not want to pull the stitching too far down or it will be VERY difficult to re-stitch it later. I have a tip at the end for conditioning the leather to minimize the look of the creases and there are online tutorials for removing them completely. Just do your best not to bend the leather too harshly while you work! 


    Here, you need to use your seam-ripper to break the threads at the top (marked with the X) and try your best to pull the threads out without breaking them. For this I used my nails, you could use a pen, pencil, toothpick, or any other small blunt-but-kind-of-pointy object to do this. You want to pull the thread out so you can tie it in a knot at the "x" I have marked.

    Congratulations! You're now ready for the next step! 

    Step Three:
    It's time to mark where you need to cut! I did this with tape so if I made a mistake I could easily move it without scarring/marking the leather. I made a 2" paper strip to help guide me, if you make a strip like this, don't treat it as law. If your boots are like mine and curve at the top, you'll have to improvise a little with the curves, you can't follow the strip perfectly since it is straight. You can also use a seam gauge like this one, but I couldn't find mine at the moment! You will be cutting along the top of the tape.


    The inside of the boot is the easiest place to start, as it has the least amount of curves. Use small bits of tape and take your time! 


    This is the part where you're allowed to scream the whole time. For me, it was easiest to start with one piece in the front of the boot (since you should have tape nearby there from doing the other side), one piece in the back, and slowly go back-and-forth to connect them. Your tape does not need to be pretty or lay perfectly flat, it just needs to give you an idea of where to cut. 


    After both boots are done it is VERY important to take a few moments to step back and admire them. (you probably did better on your second one just like I did!) Put them next to each-other and compare the lines. Stand them up side-by-side and make sure that they are even. Put one leg in one and look in a mirror to see if it looks right, then do the other leg. (one leg at a time because if they're too tall you can't walk in them!) This is your last chance to make any adjustments. Like if the front looks too low, add more tape to bring it up. Or if the curves on the boots don't match, you can fix them now! 






     
  8. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from AgnesAUT in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  9. Thanks
    Samwise got a reaction from Stickchap in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    Yeah the reason I didn't do a full tutorial is I finished this up the night before I needed to wear it. (CLASSIC AMIRIGHT!?) so no photos were taken due to my scramble. 

    What you want to do is: 

    First assemble the yoke. Which I showed in a photo roughly how the front goes together, the back would just go behind it. 
    Next assemble the chest. Which you can see how it's assembled in my little graphic mock-up. As I said you kind of have to pin it and eye-ball it to see exactly where your pocket will fall. But you want the chest totally 100% assembled before you attach it to anything. 
    Lastly assemble & hem the cape. You want it pre-hemmed because of how it's sewn to the yoke, you wouldn't be able to attach it first then hem it. 

    To assemble the whole thing I took care to measure 1" from the edge of the yoke and drew little dots with chalk all the way around, taking care to make a larger dot 1" from each corner so I could identify my corners. Also helps to make one larger dot (or x) at the center back so you can align the cape! Then I pinned the cape in place. I pinned it flat first, then put it on my dress form, and made adjustments from there until I was happy, making sure all the fabric was pinned on the dotted line I'd be sewing. 

    I sewed it down and stopped at my two front corners! 

    Then I did the same thing with the chest - pinned it flat (I had a good idea of positioning thanks to my pocket, because I knew how far from the edge it was supposed to be!) then put it on my dress form to make sure I had pinned it straight! Then I just top stitched from one front corner to the other and I was done! 


     
  10. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Mynock in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  11. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Fraktilfilth in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  12. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from GDMorti in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  13. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from SamWinchester97 in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  14. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Stickchap in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  15. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from PArmstr in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  16. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from charlyselo in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  17. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from shagger999uk in Poncho Pattern Pieces   
    I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

    Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

    Front bottom layer:

    Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

    Front middle layer:

    Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
    Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
    To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

    Front top:


    I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

    This is how the entire top looks together: 

    It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
    Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

    Yoke back:

    So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

    Front left: 


    Front top right: 


    I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

    Front bottom right: 


    This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

    Roughly how the front goes together: 


    I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

    The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

    I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

    Here's my final.

  18. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from wedgenbiggs in Eyeglasses   
    I never would have thought those glasses would work, but of course they do, because they match the style of that time so well! And the sideburns really do help. If I saw you in the background of ANH you'd blend right in, glasses and all. 
    Perfection!
  19. Like
    Samwise reacted to wedgenbiggs in Eyeglasses   
    As some one who can't wear contacts or get surgery, I rock my mid-century specs all the time. The cool thing about the thick framed brow or horn-rimmed frames is that not only do that have a Space-Age/early NASA and JPL feel, but these kind of frames were still common in the 1970s.


  20. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from Tiggerrr in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Step Eleven:
    Time for finishing touches! I have two, both are optional, but they help! Please do this after 24 hours. I don't exactly know if there's any risk to doing this near fresh e6000 but let's just not risk it please? 

    If you still have some fly-aways around the edges of your boot, despite waxing, you can take a lighter (long lighters are best) and VERY QUICKLY sweep the flame along the inside edge of your boots to burn them away. Do not, I repeat, do not hold the flame steady against your boot for any length of time. Do this in small sections where it's needed, and keep the flame in constant motion. (This is why the flame isn't touching the boot in the photo) 


    Next you can condition your boots! I was given this wax to treat a set of leather armor I bought, since I already had it on hand I used it on the boots which had some bad wrinkles already from being walked in. I applied the wax with a paper towel in circular motions and it immediately made the wrinkles look better. 

    Don’t feel obligated to use this exact brand, I just happened to have it, feel free to shop around! Just make sure you’re not using a hard wax polish in this area, it can make the bends appear worse!



    Now it's finally time! You are done! Admire your glorious boots! Take good care of them and they'll last a while! 

  21. Like
    Samwise got a reaction from xAlpha in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Thank you so much for the responses you guys! I'm really honored you like what I wrote. I've copied the tutorial over to a google drive document, and reformatted it slightly to read better on a wider scale, to make it shareable and downloadable. Let me know if you have any issues viewing it or saving it for yourself! 
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cTrzWWqTVNU5toUlIua5o0Sv_9oH6TL4j0beoQ52YNs/edit?usp=sharing
  22. Like
    Samwise reacted to Trapper in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    That was really great.
  23. Like
    Samwise reacted to DaddySolo in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Great tutorial!! - Now if you can only make my boots wider lol
  24. Like
    Samwise reacted to xAlpha in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    Very cool. I always like tips on leather care in general. Hopefully this helps someone get a good fitting pair of boots from good to perfect.
  25. Like
    Samwise reacted to CantinaSecurity in Shorten Leather Boot Shafts (Image Heavy)   
    I am very impressed at the out come and her initiative to make the boots fit her.
     
    Great Job Officer! 
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