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Daetrin

IOC Member[IOC]
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Posts posted by Daetrin

  1. It's too bad you can't find rubber (aka hyperfirm) ones anymore.  They are great because they can take a lot of abuse.  The one on Etsy seems crude by comparison.

     

    I think I may have one of the last hyperfirm SE-14R's made by Lewis.

     

    Does anyone know if Shawn Morgan still makes his?  They were fantastic, though I haven't spoken to him in over a decade.

     

    I'd upload an image, but it doesn't seem I have the permissions to do so?  Other Invision boards allow to post directly....

     

  2. 34 minutes ago, PArmstr said:

    I agree with BarisAlrisul. The extra seams that are needed to fit a blouse, jacket, coat or tunic on a female body is the reason why I haven’t finished this project. I do not have the knowledge to draft my own pattern. I have to use an existing pattern as a starting point. All the patterns that I was able to find have extra seams. Sometimes they are princess seams in the front or darts on the side of the breast and/or under the breast or straight seams that start at the shoulder seam and go all the way down to the hem.  It did not matter which source I wanted to use, if it is tailored to fit it has them. Only the baggy stuff did not have the extra seams. I went to all the pattern makers, such as Burda, McCall’s, Butterick, Vogue, Kwik Sew and Reconstructing History.

    This is the reason why I argued this case on the HQ forum and here in the IOC forum.

    https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=95184

    http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/8115-breasts-in-costumes/

     

    I have a suggestion to solve part of this problem. We could allow the extra seams that women need in the new CRLs for the IN dress uniform ANH, warrant officer ANH and ISB ANH. I was able to prove that the NY police tunic and the Russian officer summer tunic used for these uniforms have a ton of top stitching and extra seams. They cannot be seen in the movie due to the bad quality of 1977’s film. You even cannot see them in the blue ray pictures that I use as my source. If top stitching was there but cannot been there is no justification to not permit extra seams.

     

    http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/9352-topstitching-on-tunics-mentioned-in-the-crls/&tab=comments#comment-119134

     

    So here is my sugestion. Allow extra seams and darts for female fitting on the mentioned tunics on level 1. Add all the top stitching and seams that these uniforms had in reality as a must do for level 3. Everything else in between is for level 2.

    The ANH uniforms are the only ones where we need to allow this. The uniforms of ESB, ROTJ, R1, Rebels and the olive uniforms from ANH have the yoke where women can hide the extra seams underneath.

     

     

    If my above comment wasn't clear, in short I agree 100% with your suggestion.

  3. For those that don't want to read all the posts on the Legion boards, here is the summary by the LMO.    My take on this is what he's trying to say is this:

     

    Will front princess seams on ID costumes always approvable?  No in that...

    Should they be allowed for guys? No.

    Should they be always allowed for all females? No.

    Should GMLs exercise some discretion on a case by case basis when a costume is well done, it does not distract from the overall look, and there is no better option?  Yes.

     

    That is the guidance I'll go with as a GML at least.  "No", but with the possibility of an exception on a case by case basis for females who need it.

     

    Quote

    Halloooo,

    LMO here.

    I have been mulling over a response to this thread for some time. I've spoken at length with legion members at C8, my LMO team, as well as former members of the LMO staff. From those discussions here is my take on it:

    Let me start off by saying that the imperial officer's tunic bib does not have darts sewn into it on screen. They should not specifically be mentioned in the CRL either way.

    I stand with Meg on her method of getting a tunic to fit with discreet and invisible darts. I've seen her post about this method numerous times. Our members go through much much harder machinations getting all manner of costumes to fit every sort of body type. If this is a viable way to make a tunic fit better this is the sort of thing I suggest doing to your officer.

    Philosophically I try to avoid two things. First is dictating anything in a CRL that is not seen. Second is to avoid putting "build instructions" in a CRL. For example a lot of people have complicated methods of getting a TK ab and kidney to meet, but elastic and snaps are not part of the CRL. The TK CRL also does not dictate how your kit is strapped together. But there is a tacit understanding that all CRLs should "fit the wearer".

    There is no female version of an imperial officer in the OT. It's true that a real life military would have a different version of a uniform for a female. However our CRLs should not reflect what should be done "in universe" (as someone wisely put it recently.) They should be as seen on screen.

    Having said allllll that, does it matter that someone sews a dart in the side of a tunic if it still looks like an officer? No it really doesn't matter. Not everyone cares about the highest level of accuracy. While I suggest not doing it and finding a better way to fit your officer, I do not see a problem if someone wants to sew darts in their tunic for a better look. Even if the CRL photo does not show them, the CRL wording doesn't say specifically you can't have them.

    The tunic dart analogy goes like this: My TK has visible side shims because I'm not a skinny rail. These are allowed for basic approval and not specified in the TK CRL. May I have visible side shims for high levels of FISD accuracy. Newp. I cannot.

    I suggest everyone, members and GMLs alike, use common sense in this case.

    One last note... If you ever find yourself disagreeing with your GML please email lmo@501st.com to request a review of your costume.

    -Eric

     

  4. lActually that would be Kay maybe saying that, not myself. 

    --EDIT (Added for clarity)

    Sorry, to be clear I meant to say that both Kay & myself both say that while there is the letter of the CRL, GMLs can at their discretion interpret them more or less strictly when there is wiggle room.  For instance how a jodhpur flare looks is highly subjective.  Missing the disk on a hat is not.

     

    While Kay and I have certainly done just that as our prerogative as GMLs (e.g. sometimes let small stuff that is easily correctable or a bit subjective go), regarding front princess seams on female officers I can't recall us ever making that specific exception.  Actually I don't think in our garrison it has come up yet, which is probably why.

    --

     

    As you note, we don't see any female officers in the original trilogy, making it harder.  Now that you are 501st, you should have access to the 501st forums. There was quite the discussion by and for curvy women on there regarding this, and the consensus that was reached was that while it was a challenge, it was possible and that Legion female officers had to comply with the same standards as the men did.

     

    As you are finding out, while the CRLs call out quite a bit GMLs exercise judgment on a case by case basis.  It is quite possible that a GML may approve them in one garrison, but not another.  FWIW, this is not unique to officer costumes, but happens on many others too.  The UKG (UK Garrison) for instance is notorious for being sticklers about details on stormtrooper costumes that many other garrisons wouldn't bother with.

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