Thubin

General Information:
The general consensus for push-button rank bars is that EAO brand lens covers should be used. There are other brands out there, but I'll focus on EAO here. For Original Trilogy (OT) and current CRL standard sizing, the 01-901 series (.2 for red and .6 for blue) are the ideal button for use. NOTE: AMBER IS DIFFERENT, it's part number is 01-982.4. When ordering, you are looking for transparent, not translucent. For the larger, Rogue One style buttons, the current consensus is that the buttons are EAO's 31-903 series  
Verified Suppliers:
US Newark Mouser Allied Electronics UK RS Online  
 
 
Here are some links for the three lenses so you don't have to go sifting through the thread:
UK Source:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/switches/push-button-switches-accessories/push-button-lenses/
 
Blue:
http://www.newark.com/eao/01-901-6/lens-rectangular-transparent-blue/dp/50B3012?ost=50B3012&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false
 
Red:
http://www.newark.com/eao/01-901-2/lens-rectangular-red/dp/50B3010?ost=50B3010&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false
 
Amber (I cannot vouch for these personally, but Kman says they're all good):
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EAO/01-9824/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugJQkOXgo8J7Hu02QLfqPp8Ji4joKUbjIM%3D
 
Couple notes:
 
Red/Blue:
The dimensions as listed sound too big, but they are the correct size for the rank bars. My guess is that they dimensions cited are for the switch assembly itself that these go into. Newark expects you to be a company; they are an industrial supplier. When setting up my account, I basically said I am self-employed. I don't seem to remember having an issue with purchase (PO) order numbers, but if they really push you, just make something up.  
Amber:
Ignore that they say square. Kman is quoted on pg 2 as saying he and others have ordered this switch cover  
Hey, sorry if this has been answered somewhere, but I was wondering where I could find accurately sized push button lenses to make my rank bar. I am finding a boat-load of EAO 18x24 mm, but nothing the size called for in the CRL (12.7x19 mm). I did a brief look around the forum, but couldn't find a source.
 
Any thoughts on where I can look? I'm trying to scratch-build as much as possible (plus I don't like Pay-Pal), so I'd rather not order a bar if I can help it.
 
Thanks!

I just used a 1" by 0.125" bar stock from Home Depot. That, a hack saw, sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease should make it pretty. I also had a machine shop mill a couple recesses in the back for magnets so it sat a little flat.

I seem to remember someone talking about a Galen-specific uniform around here somewhere. I'd love to see a general "science officer" uniform. With a physics background, I'd definitely be able to spew convincing techno-babble wearing that thing

Here's the link:
 

The (current) general consensus is that for the original trilogy the buttons should be 1/4 inch. If you're doing the larger Rogue One style, the spacing should be closer to 1/8 inch. The way I'm doing mine is that I'm keeping the bar length the same, and just centering the buttons regardless of their type.
 
Ex:

Kman put it just about as good as I could. I use E6000.

So I contacted our good friends over at EAO directly and I learned a few things:
 
1) The 01 series is NOT being discontinued (as some have speculated), however
2) They are NOT considered standard stock anymore, so availability will continue to dwindle.
3) There will be a time in the very near future that they all have lead times standard.
4) The suppliers we have Identified are more or less it. There are a few smaller companies, but they will have further limited stocks.
5) You can order direct from EAO, but the minimum order is $250.
 
Just throwing it out there.

I've seen it "faked" by using an o-ring and black plasti-dip.  But I agree with Q - if it doesn't have the OEM tip (cool!), I wouldn't bother.  It's not something that's actually visible - ever.

So jealous Sean! The guy I had going to grab me a copy took one look at the line and said "nope, tough luck Chris. Sorry"

I was thinking similar.

Kman put it just about as good as I could. I use E6000.

E6000 should work well, just be sure to tape it securely in place after gluing for the 24 hour cure time, because parts glued with E6000 seem to love to drift VERY SLOWLY if you don't, and then you come back the next day to find it securely glued down in a position that's just a little bit off.
 
I'd be wary of Zap a Gap or any CA glue, unless you're just talking about the base.  CA glue off-gasses and puts a haze on the clear plastic button tops.
 
I'm more of a fan of E6000 than CA in general, for most uses, as long a time permits.  It's a stronger bond because it's less fragile.  The flexible E6000 bond can soak up a sharp impact (say, if you accidentally drop it on the floor), while the rigid CA bond is more brittle, and sharp impacts can snap things clean off.

And as such we wear replicas of those random rank bars. ☺
For canon events at least. Non canonical events may afford more flexibility, depending on your local garrison. 

Ahh, well... I don't know how much this will help then, but here's the measurements anyway haha: http://imgur.com/a/w6X6k
 
From what I understand, if you don't fit standard sizing, Hessian is THE boot to get. Todd's look really nice, but again, the shaft is too small for me.

Maybe change the L1 line as well:
From
There are no stretch panels, buckles, snap tabs, or decoration.
To
There are no stretch panels, snap tabs or decorations, and no buckles, EXCEPT for the optional adjustment strap  matching screen used props

I've noted that several of the Officers in RO (notably Krennic) have true English riding boots (not Wehrmacht style as in the OT) that have adjustment straps on the top of the shafts. I would like to propose that that "no straps" stricture be deleted from the Officer CRLs. Alternatively, will there be a separate CRL for RO Officers (different ranks, belt boxes, boots, etc). Personally, I would suggest adding the variants into the regular CRL.
 
Thanks;
Bret

Friendly neighborhood LMO here, posting today about CRL's and You.  What I am about to outline is not a step by step detailed thing, but rather, a high level informational post about CRL's and the path they take throughout their "lives".  What we want and aim for is a set of references a person can use to craft a costume that is as close to screen / reference material as possible.  That is the goal.  We also need to keep consideration of our members in mind.
 
For new CRL's, it goes like this:  a proposal is made by the detachment or member.  If the member is already working with the detachment, great.  If not, they get directed there.  The detachment will provide the LMO with all requested reference material and proposed wording for the proposed new CRL.  The LMO will review on a first pass, saying whether or not a CRL can/should be created.  With that green light, work can forge forward.  Please note, that is just a yes/no on whether or not the CRL can be made.  No review is done on wording at that time.  Once the detachment has finished its wording and collected its pictures, they submit to the LMO.
 
LMO reviews.  LMO Team reviews.  Lead LMO reviews.  At each review period, expect that wording changes will take place.  Expect that new, extra, different photos may be required.  Then Lead LMO sends the finished product back to the DL for a thumbs up.  Then, it gets published and "made green".
 
As for edits and updates to already existing CRL's .... they are done with almost as much multi-person involvement and sanity checking.
Once a detachment (in this case, you folks here) decide that a change should be made, that change gets posted in your designated place.  LMO reviews it.  LMO Team reviews it.  Lead LMO reviews in some cases.  Once the proposed change gets the thumbs up, THEN the change is made in Databank.
 
At no point is anything assured with a proposed new CRL or edit ... until it is actually published.  And it only gets published after multiple reviews.  This has not been, necessarily, how things worked in years past.  And it is, indeed, a tightening up from last year.  This is not in place to be obstructive.  Rather, it is an effort to keep edits sane, transparent, and to keep everyone, including the membership at large, informed.
 
 
~C

Ditto to what everyone else said!

+ 1

Ditto to what everyone else said!

From what I've heard, you're right. Plexi will be around for the foreseeable future, at least for L1. Standard disclaimer, like Sean, I'm not in a position of authority, just passing on what I've heard form folks in the know

Classic bait and switch

Jedi Master? Yoda... You seek Yoda!!
 
So I am currently down in San Francisco for a short trip, and I was told that there was a Yoda fountain that I absolutely HAD to go see. I agreed, and the experience was something amazing As I walked toward the Lucasfilm building, headed toward the Yoda fountain and the Lucasfilm Lobby, it was truly an emotional journey. Here are some pics I snagged. Definitely something I would absolutely recommend to any Star Wars fan. Enjoy!!
 

Hey Christina. The discussion on rank bars can be a bit overwhelming. So, Ill first say that Im in not position of authority here (so I could be wrong on certain details), and unless something has changed in the last week (I havent checked the forums as often in the past week due to vacation), plexiglass rank bars still should be good for basic approval. I think there is a movement right now to try and get push button rank bars put in the CRL, but that should/would be implemented for L3 or L2. I doubt for basic approval.
 
And once you get basic approval, you are grandfathered in. You dont have to worry about it, unless you wanted to get higher approval (i.e. L2 and L3). 
 
Hope that helps

1/8 bar stock. 

Well son-of-a....
I made a 3 button one, so that's what he's wearing.

There's a little glue I need to clean off yet, but not bad for a few hours.
I also remade my Admiral Motti rank bar while I was at it.
Photobucket is being stupid, so the picture is sideways.  Deal with it.