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kman

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Posts posted by kman

  1. A range of fabric is acceptable... but there is good reason why most use a sturdy fabric like a twill.  I'm not sure a finer material like Gabardine would stand up well over time, and wrinkles might be something of a nightmare.  Finally, I'm also not sure how it would drape and look, compared to the sturdier options.

     

    Soooo... I don't think I would advise it, necessarily... but if you decide you want to take a gamble on it, I'd be curious to see how it turns out?  Can't promise your GML will pass it, especially if the fabric ends up looking not-quite-right.  You may want to see what they have to say on the matter, since basic approval is in their hands.

  2. Bumping this thread, as it has recently come to my attention.

     

    @chicken45 what are your thoughts on the matter?

     

    Screenshot for reference.  Note the metal loops on that hat band are significantly smaller than in the current CRL photos.  I think noting a more specific size and/or shape is probably a good idea, for Level 3, or perhaps even Level 2.

     

    MvXvzbF.jpeg

     

  3. On 3/8/2024 at 5:09 PM, ImperialAgentSim said:

    Anyone know where they might have a 3D print of these or who can do it? I have been asking around but nothing so far. It looks to be around 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. 

    Screenshot 2024-03-08 at 4.21.33 PM.png

     

    There was someone on Etsy selling a 3D model that you could print or have printed elsewhere.  Unfortunately is was only *meh* accurate.  I can dig up the link, I think, if you'd like.

     

    One of these days I may dust off my modelling skills and see if I can model one, but that won't be on a short timetable.  Or Ezra (@Alay) threatened to do one, at one point, but I'm not sure what happened with that.

  4. Sorry for the delay in responding.

     

    Hmm, for the collar pins, I might consider using pin back and clutches, like enamel pins usually have?  You can get a bunch for cheap on Amazon or REALLY cheap on eBay (slower shipping).  Two on each to avoid rotating.

     

    Another option might be magnets, but reversed from the usual with rank bars... put a thin layer of steel on the back, like from an old metal sign, cut up with some tin snips, and use the magnets on the inside.  Or if you want to re-do the 3D models (sometimes that's easy and people don't mind), you could add an inset cavity in the model so it's not any deeper, and put magnets on both sides for a stronger hold.

     

    For the code cylinders, assuming its not simple to get inside and add interfacing to the fabric itself... hard to say.  Perhaps some thin semi-stiff (but still flexible) plastic, like the kind they use for those cheap thin cutting boards?  Cut a piece the full size of the inside of your code cylinder pockets (width and depth) to spread out the load a little.  You could experiment with some simple cardboard (like posterboard) as a proof of concept, to see if that might work.  Just a thought.  Others might have some ideas, too.

  5. The trickiest parts to get right are the main tunic, and boots, as for any officer.  With Krennic in particular, depending on which version you are doing, the cape or poncho add additional hurdles.

     

    As Danny noted, which version were you looking at doing?  What do you have so far?  Can you show us some photos?

  6. On 2/17/2024 at 5:34 AM, Hask said:

    Amnesty officers were rejected for 501st inclusion. Whilst the person wearing it may be of a shady character the uniform is still New Republic issue.

     

    The person wearing it, in this case, is literally an imperial officer, Elia Kane.  Who, it turned out (sorry if spoilers) was very much still working for the Empire, just in disguise.

     

    Wasn't there a joint Legion decision to allow "disguise characters" a few years ago?

  7. On 3/3/2024 at 11:37 PM, KGriffen said:

    Hello everyone. Just settling in from ECCC and would like to share some photos of my Rae Sloane so far. I will still need to find knee high boots and a better way to fasten the collar pins. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

     

    Looks great!  Can you provide a quick closeup shot of how the collar pins are, now?  It's a little hard to tell in the full length photos.  (And what are they made of?)  Then perhaps we can come up with some suggestions.

     

    What sort of help can we offer, in terms of boots?  Vendors?  Did you have a budget in mind?

     

    One tip I would recommend, if possible: Can some sort of stiffener be employed in the code cylinder pockets, to help them sag less?  Dual code cylinders is a fair amount of weight.  This would not prevent approval, but it rather intended as a hopefully helpful tip that can help improve an already excellent costume. :)

  8. On 3/4/2024 at 11:33 AM, Mesh said:

    sorry for the potential necro,

    My ISB and Staff Officer are Cossky and both L3 before this, are they grandfathered? :)

     

    The only issue is the green ones.  Black and white are still fine. :)

     

    (And nothing is ever taken away... had you been approved to L3 in green before, it would still be valid, but no new applications for L3 in this green will be approved)

  9. The official rank chart covers the options pretty well.

     

    You cannot mix and match costume items from different CRL versions... tabs are there for convenience, but v1 is a wholly separate CRL to v2, for instance.

     

    20211111013738-2c7fd92d.jpg

     

    Each branch is comprised of various colors of uniform, so that's not the determiner.

     

    For basic approval, any of these ranks is fine.  For higher level approvals you'll want to emulate the configuration of a specific officer from authorized sources.

     

    The "mix-and-match" aspect is normal in pretty much every real world military.  Just because you see an officer not wearing a hat, doesn't mean they don't have one somewhere.  Ditto for gloves, trench coats, ponchos, you name it.  Collared undershirts, too.  Unless it's a formal inspection, officers will wear uniform basics from the selection on hand that are suitable to the situation.

  10. Might be worth asking again after the dust settles from the elections.

     

    I can't see how they would have a rationale for turning down Elia Kane as a face character, if still unwilling to do a generic.

     

    Someone has to make the costume for a CRL to be created, however, so we'll need someone who wants to do face character for Kane in this costume, to move forward, if greenlit.

  11. On 2/15/2024 at 8:45 AM, IBC976 said:

    Fast forward a few years!

     

    This is fantastic Ben! Thanks for having it up here.

     

    I'm currently doing something similar for my Imperial Bridge Crew build. I have a resource for the ear pieces if anyone is interested.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0829RZ62X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    These are a good substitute and reasonably cheap.

     

    Nice find!  I found similar ones on eBay a few years back, but those are definitely cheaper.

     

    20180821133410-11337f3d-me.jpg

  12. I concur, "ask your GML" is probably the best advice, if you're concerned about being approved specifically with a specific piece.

     

    Personally, as long as it looks reasonably in the right ballpark, we tend to not get too into the weeds with blaster detail, particularly since Officer blasters spend the majority of their life in holsters anyway.

     

    As to the scope mount, the CRL language (which I suspect was copied from the Death Trooper language verbatim, but I have not double checked that yet), simply says "The scope mount looks similar to the magazine but smaller in size."  It doesn't spefically call out the grooves, so that would again be a GML call on how THEY interpret the language.  I'm not against modifying the line to allow for both grooved and ungrooved variants, though.

     

    I would not use the Stormtrooper SE14R as an example... that particular blaster only appeared in that one promo photo, and was never seen in ANH (aside from the Dr. Ezran model which was yet another different variant).  We would care more about the models actually seen in officer's hands, which I believe are usually more consistent.  Still, different productions have had different propmasters who sometimes made some slight variations, so none of these are set in stone the same way other blasters have been.  (noting that few blasters have ever been 100% consistent across even the same movie or show).

     

    The ones I can think of that would apply all have the charging handle on the right (costumer's right, when holding the blaster in hand).  I've seen scope adjustment knobs facing both ways, always up, but the second to the left or right.  From a shooting perspective, this would be end user preference.  (along with right-handed vs left handed differences)

     

    Here, it's to the right, and yet many other references show it to the left, so clearly there's an amount of dealer's choice at play.  On my own SE-14R, I set it up with the knob to my right, as below, because I just thought it looked better.  (It also holsters better with the bumpy bits facing the outside)

     

    20240213123752-1dbc0a71.png

     

    @chicken45 Perhaps we should tweak the CRL language a little, for clarity on some of these points?  (The changes could affect several CRLs, though). Or did the text block come completely canned from the Death Trooper CRL?

  13. On 1/31/2024 at 1:38 PM, ChrisLie said:

    Usually Maz and Clothears can be more expensive. Cloth I don't remember the price, but MazCave can be up to 750 euro for a set. But I think it's a fair price consider the quality and costum order 

     

    Clothears is around $1k and a good year wait, last I saw

  14. Cossky's costumes are surprisingly decent quality for the money, but that doesn't mean there are no compromises made.  Their black uniforms are fairly decent, IF they fit you (off the rack sizing only, and sometimes their work can be wonky).  Tailoring sometimes helps, but there's very little seam allowance, so fixing the neck tends to be impossible.  Their olive uniform... well, for all that it's the same construction as the black, the color is rather bad.  You'll notice it's no longer accepted for higher level approvals.  It suffices for basic... for now.  (assuming it fits correctly, as always)

     

    Magnoli's is ok.  People have had mixed results with that vendor.  If there's a problem, good customer service is... unlikely.  The quality of work is quite good, and the uniforms meet CRL requirements, last I checked.  The fabric they use is not as good as some others, however.  If you need a full custom suit, which is Magnoli's main selling point, I would look to MazCave or Clothears as superior options.

     

    If you fit off the rack sizing, I would look at WampaWear over Magnoli, personally (although their hats are rather off, while approvable, and buying fabric to have one made to match definitely bring the cost up).  Frankly, I'd look at ImperialBoots over Magnoli, too.  (Magnoli's quality is better but WW and IB use more accurate fabric)

     

    I'm not a fan of Magnoli's accessories.  I'd recommend BaileyBuilds (on Etsy, sold in our sales forums, or at ezrabaileybuilds.com) instead.

     

    Magnoli's boots are good, but you can easily do better, price-wise.  (And def don't waste money on their $800 custom ones)

  15. If it helps any, here's mine.  Different 3D file source, printed myself, but many of the basics are the same.  I later applied minor weathering and replaced the ejection port cover.

     

    20210408152823-053dced5-me.jpg

     

    Using a real scope helps tremendously, IMO.  A simple 4x rimfire scope from Walmart did the trick for me... I think they may be a little more than the $20 I paid now, but still quite affordable.  And yes, mounted backwards is canon!

     

     

  16. If Maz took their store down, they're taking a break.  Normally I'd message them on Etsy for best response, since that's the business.

     

    PilotBay is worth reaching out, perhaps?  Message them from their Etsy store... I'm not sure if they list the hats (or most of the stuff they do)

  17. 4 hours ago, haringjr said:

    Good news! I have a pair of what seem to be ultra rare Burton boots, in the correct color, in my size. Found them on eBay. This was the only time I've seen them in that color, and the only example I've found out in the world currently. 

    I also got the additional straps and pads. 

    I'll post up photos.

     

    WOW, super lucky!

  18. Oof.  Bummer.  How noticeable is it, outside of a closeup photo?  Still useable, maybe?

     

    Wampa uses Cavalry twill, so if you have that option, that's for sure how I'd go.  You might ask if they know specifically, however, given how ubiquitous WampaWear is these days.

     

    If you want a perfect match, does WW still sell their fabric separately?  It's an expensive option (ask me how I know), but it's the ideal situation.

     

    With black, however, a *perfect* match is less critical than with the greens, so it may not matter.

     

    On the bright side, you're likely to end up with a much better hat than Wampa's (which does not technically meet CRL requirements, although GMLs are still approving them).

  19. On 1/19/2024 at 9:55 AM, WalkmanWampa said:

    Thanks for the advice everyone! What hats would you recommend since Cossky doesn't have good ones?

     

    There are a number of vendors on Etsy who make imperial hats, and even a few who use fabric that they purchased from those same Cosplay sites so it matches better.  The one that jumps to mind is 20EyesDesign, but please don't take that as a solid endorsement... there are definitely others, and 20Eyes may not be perfect for YOU, but I know a number of people who have been approved in them and I don't recall anything glaringly wrong with them.

     

    Higher end custom vendors should also be able to use pretty much any fabric you'd like.  I had my hat made by PilotBay, using fabric I purchased from WampaWear (because the pattern WW uses for hats is pretty bad, IMO).

  20. My one note would be to make sure that if you go for a highly unusual and fun liner, make sure it's not visible when you're wearing the costume (in any way you may at some point want to wear it).  This may include things like maintaining the regular exterior sleeve fabric a little farther up the inside of the sleeve, so we don't get flashes of neon orange liner (LOL), or in the flaps if you might ever find yourself with your tunic partially torn open, etc.

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