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kman

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  1. Like
    kman got a reaction from Stormystormtrooper in Tunic lenght (and other feedback)   
    I responded.
  2. Like
    kman got a reaction from Mesh in Cosplaysky and L3   
    The only issue is the green ones.  Black and white are still fine.
     
    (And nothing is ever taken away... had you been approved to L3 in green before, it would still be valid, but no new applications for L3 in this green will be approved)
  3. Like
    kman got a reaction from KGriffen in Grand Admiral Rae Sloane   
    Looks great!  Can you provide a quick closeup shot of how the collar pins are, now?  It's a little hard to tell in the full length photos.  (And what are they made of?)  Then perhaps we can come up with some suggestions.
     
    What sort of help can we offer, in terms of boots?  Vendors?  Did you have a budget in mind?
     
    One tip I would recommend, if possible: Can some sort of stiffener be employed in the code cylinder pockets, to help them sag less?  Dual code cylinders is a fair amount of weight.  This would not prevent approval, but it rather intended as a hopefully helpful tip that can help improve an already excellent costume.
  4. Like
    kman reacted to swirlie in Questions because some of this mix-and-match stuff is boiling my brain   
    And this simple principle is so at odds with every other CRL that the 501st does. Heaven forbid you have an extra pouch on your belt, or a pouch too few, or you aren't 100% emulating this specific series of different pouches in this exact order on whatever armor kit... those will all get your app denied even for basic lvl 1 approval and I hate that. There should be some wiggle room, some amount of insignificant variation.
     
    So I'm glad the IOC sees reason on that front.
  5. Like
    kman got a reaction from Naradriel1994 in Attendant Silver/Grey color   
    That fabric looks a little more silver and a bit lighter than ideal, if I'm being honest, but it's in the right ballpark.  Accurate greys are going to be the death of us LOL  It's almost has varied as feldgrau.
     
    Stealing an image from another thread:

     
    Note the variation in lightness just based on lighting... the guys on the left side, near the wall, with less direct light, look WAY darker than Heert (next to Meero), more in the middle of the corridor and under the main lights.  That being said, I think the guys on the left are closer to the correct shade: A bit darker, when the lighting isn't blowing it out.
  6. Haha
    kman got a reaction from DarkG in How do you choose rank insignia?   
    I have a collection that spans MANY ranks, both OT and non-saga.  I don't have pictures of all my OT ranks handy, but here is a taste LOL:
     
    Non-Saga:
     

     
    OT:
     

     
    But I tend to agree with the "realistic age for the rank" theory.  A 20-year old is welcome to portray a top general if they really want to, but to my eye, if you appear too young, and those top tiers ranks seem a little off.  Similarly the bottom level ranks seem a little incongruous on someone in their 50s-60s, although it's certainly easier to rationalize. ("I got busted down for sleeping with the wrong general's wife" can be a great backstory LOL)
  7. Like
    kman got a reaction from MrX4353 in Push button Rank Bars: How to Make Them!   
    I’ve been meaning to do one of these threads for a while now, and finally had a good excuse to make a new rank bar, so here goes.
    Push button rank bars are the ideal.  Screen-accurate, and just look way better than the cheap acrylic chip styles.  And best of all, they can be hand made at home very inexpensively and with just a few basic tools!  There are a LOT of photos here, detailing every step, but it’s a pretty straightforward process, as a whole.
     
    There are also a LOT of steps here but don't be scared off... it's just because I broke each step to the nth degree, and a lot of steps are just double, triple, quadruple-checking measurement and alignment.  This is all really simple stuff that nearly anyone should be able to do, and nothing more exotic than a hacksaw, sandpaper and an exacto knife (or something similar, even) is really required (plus glue, of course).  And the hacksaw is probably optional, if you get the shop to do the first cut.  Oh, and a ruler, of course.
     
    HERE'S HOW:
     
    Note: E6000 is the glue of choice.  Know it, love it, use it.  It takes 24 hours to cure, and I don’t recommend shorting that at ALL.  BUT:  I recommend starting the gluing either in the morning, so you can do some final manipulation in the evening, or in the evening, so you can do that final manipulation in the morning.  (I usually just glue at night so I can tweak it in the morning, then let it finish curing through the day, and put it all together the next evening.)
     
    Step one: The Buttons
     
    Buy the appropriate push buttons for your costume.  
     

     
    TIP: See this thread for details on how and where they can be purchased:
     
    Step two: The Bar
     
    Buy a piece of aluminum stock.  I prefer the 1/8” stuff, some people like the thinner 1/16” stuff.  I just think the thinner stuff bends far too easily.  You can get a long piece at Home Depot, Lowe’s, ACE, or really almost any hardware store.  You can get 4’ of the stuff for around $10.  That's quite a few rank bars, even if they're all the largest 6" size.  So make some for a friend, or make yourself a variety so you can choose ranks like you pick socks for the day, LOL
     
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801927/204274000
     

     
    Step three: Determine Size Needed
     
    Figure out how long it needs to be, based on how many buttons you’ll be using, and how far apart they are.  Add the same spacing on each end, and I usually add a millimeter or two of extra length, because it’s easier to sand a little more off than to add more, if anything happens during the finishing process.  Especially if the end cut is not perfect.  Rogue One buttons, as pictured below, should be 3mm apart.  The smaller OT buttons should be about 1/4" (~6mm) between them.  See the Imperial Rank Bar databank page for details.  (Note: That page needs updating with Rogue One/Solo info... it's being worked on)  I'm using millimeters in this guide... I find them easier to work with for measuring very small distances like this, and most rulers have both measurements anyway.
     
    I do this by literally just setting the buttons on the bar, starting from the end, and measuring out along a ruler.  Very simple.  Mark a line somewhere where you need to cut.
     

     
    Step four: Cut the Aluminum
     
    To cut the aluminum, I just use a hacksaw in a miter box.  Aluminum is really soft and easy to cut, but if you don’t have a hacksaw, most hardware stores will do at least one cut on for you, so plan ahead and bring your measurements.  (Be sure to pad the numbers because they’re not usually super precise about their cuts!)
     

     
    Step five: Rough sand the bar
     
    Sand the ends down to the exact size you want, within about a millimeter.  I use my bench grinder for this, but it can be done by hand with just some sandpaper if you don’t have one.  Rough sandpaper is fine at this stage (100-200 grit, whatever), because you’ll be cleaning it up with finer sandpaper in the next step.
     

     
    Step six: Fine finishing of the bar
     
    Next we clean it up, get rid of any visible scratches (common with plain bar stock from big box stores, since aluminum is soft and it gets beat up a lot), and generally make it nice.  For this I use a high grit sandpaper, like 500 grit, and use one that’s rated for wet sanding, because it gives a much better final product very easily.  You want a nice perfectly flat surface for this… I use the counter of the bathroom or kitchen sink, because it’s an easy place to do it.  The aluminum powder sanded off can then be washed away quickly and easily, and the counter tends to be a perfectly flat surface.  (perfect another for this, anyway… as long as you’re not talking aerospace parts, it’s fine)  Just put a little dribble of water on the sandpaper and scrub back and forth until it’s clean and smooth.  Clean up the ends, too, while you’re at it.  I don’t spend much time on the back, since it’s never seen, but sometimes I’ll hit it a little if I feel inclined.
     

     
    Some like to use a straight edge to sand along so the lines are perfectly horizontal, but it the final finish is smooth enough, that’s not something I care about.  Here’s the final bar, for this badge:
     

     
    Step seven: Measure
     
    I’m a big fan of measuring, measuring, measuring, at multiple times throughout this process, because you really want this as perfect as possible.  Shortcut that if you want, but don’t blame me if your badges are less than perfect. So I lay out the buttons, again, on the final bar, and double check everything lays the way I want, including the right amount sticking out on the sides.
     

     
    Step eight: Button disassembly
     
    Now we’re onto the buttons themselves.  Remove the white inserts (just gently squeeze the legs and they should come right out).
     

     
    Step nine: Button trimming
     
    Next cut off those little legs.  You can use any number of tools for this.  I’ve used hot knives, utility / box knives Exacto knives, diagonal snips… currently my favorite method is the cutoff wheel on my Dremel:
     

     

     
    Step ten: Button cleanup
     
    Then I clean up the inside with the Exacto knife.  
     

     
    Cleaning up a lot doesn’t matter a whole lot, since its on the back and inside, but I’m a perfectionist that way.  It does need to be perfectly cut away, though, so they lay perfectly flat.  Extra plastic from the pins in the middle that make it rock back and forth is NOT what you want.  Be careful not to take too much away… the covers clip in the middle indent, so that needs to be there, and you don’t want a big gap in the middle that lets the glue seep out, either.  At the end, I take a couple of quick swipes on that wet sandpaper again… just a couple, though.  You don’t want to remove much material here.
     

     
    Step eleven: More measuring
     
    Lay the inserts out on the bar again, and gently set the button covers on them so you can space them out and measure the distance again.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THE BUTTON COVERS ONTO THE INSERTS FROM HERE UNTIL THE VERY END!!!  Without the legs, those inserts are a REAL b#$%* to remove.
     
    Step twelve: Reference tape
     
    Once everything is, again, laid out perfectly, use a strip of painters tape to carefully slide under the button covers (remember, they’re not pressed on, so they’re held a millimeter or two above the surface of the bar), flush against the inserts.  This is going to be your alignment guide to make sure the inserts are perfectly positioned at the right height, so they’re nice and centered on the bar. (top to bottom)
     

     
    Step thirteen: Double-check the line
     
    Sanity check your tape alignment to make sure it’s nice and straight… it’s funny (not funny) how obvious a millimeter off looks, once everything is put together.  The slant is a lot more obvious than you’d think.  I tweaked the line just slightly after I took this photo, FWIW, since the left edge looks a hair lower than the right.
     

     
    Step fourteen: Space out the buttons
     
    Lay out the buttons covers out on their face AGAIN (upside down), on either a piece of paper, paper towel, or some other protective surface you don’t want glue on your nice dining room table, or even your workbench), carefully measured out, and with the inserts lightly placed inside.  (REMINDER: BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THEM INTO THE COVERS!)
     

     
    Step fifteen: Use tape to hold the button insert underside
     
    Now the interesting part begins.  Tape a piece of painters tape (I like 1” for this)and gently lay it onto the undersides of the inserts.  You should be able to lift the inserts out and have them stay in the exact position they were in when you flip it over.  Measure them all AGAIN and confirm everything is as straight as it should be.
     

     
    Step sixteen: Use tape to hold the button insert from the top
     
    Take ANOTHER piece of painters tape and lay it over the TOP of those inserts.  Again, this should lock them into place and hold them nice and firmly.  Give yourself a good extra inch or so on either side, because later you’ll want to wrap the ends around the bar to hold things in place.
     

     
    Step seventeen: Release the button insert underside
     
    Flip it over and remove the tape from the bottom, and you have all the covers nice and in place, ready for gluing.
     

     
    Step eighteen: Fill the inserts with Glue
     
    And now we glue.  Use E6000 or similar slow cure, self-leveling glue.  Fill each insert entirely, but be careful not to OVER-fill them.
     

     
    Step nineteen: Top off the glue levels
     
    Double check they’re completely filled, and add a little more if any corners aren’t fully filled, etc.
     

     
    Step twenty: Apply the bar
     
    Now remember that bar stock with the tape along the edge?  Put that tape line right up against the buttons covers filled with glue.  You should feel it easily when the tape line touches the inserts.
     

     
    Step twenty-one: Flip the inserts and bar
     
    Flip it over so the glue will go down and glue the inserts onto the bar.  Double-check your alignment against that alignment tape, now that you can see it easier.  You should see pretty clearly that they’re all neatly pressed against the tape reference line, and you’ll know they’re just where they should be as a result.
     

     
    Step twenty-two: Remove the alignment tape and package it up for the night
     
    At this point, once I’m sure everything is where I want it, I fold the ends of the top painters tape under the bar, to hold everything exactly in place.  Remove the alignment tape and wrap it round the middle, like a belt holding it all together.
     

     
    Step twenty-three: Walk away...
     
    Leave it all out to cure overnight.  You’ll want probably 10-14 hours of cure time before the next step.
     

     
    Step twenty-four: Double-check alignment and measurements
     
    After about 10-14 hours have passed, the glue will be about perfect for the next step.  Too long and it’s hard to move things around, if small adjustments are needed.  Too short a time, and things can just move out of place again.  10-14 hours is the perfect level of tacky but no longer slippery.
     
    Carefully remove all the tape, and gently place the button covers on the inserts again, so you can truly measure the final positions.  (don’t lock them on, remember!)  While you CAN measure just the inserts, I find the nice sharp edges of the button covers area easier to measure, and the sharp lines make it more clear if anything is off.
     

     
    Step twenty-five: More measuring checks
     
    Remove the button covers and AGAIN make sure everything is aligned perfectly, and the measurements between each are perfectly consistent.  Again, a half millimeter will be visibly obvious once it’s all done, so this is your last chance to fix things.  If anything is off, you should be able to carefully push the inserts around as needed.  The glue will allow movements without screwing anything up, at this stage.  Be sure to use a straightedge to make sure everything is *perfectly* straight.
     

     
    Step twenty-six: Glue cleanup
     
    If any glue seeped out from under the inserts, now is the perfect time to clean it up.  The glue is still soft enough to be easy to remove with an exacto knife, and not cured hard yet, but not so soft that it just squishes around under the blade.  Be careful not to move anything around while you do this, but it should be fairly set in place, as long as you work gently.  Cutting right along the edge of the inserts will scratch the bar, but not in a visible area, since the button covers will go over this area.
     

     
    Step twenty-seven: Walk away again...
     
    Now leave it somewhere safe and walk away for another 10-14 hours.  The glue will cure more fully during this time, but it’s no longer so slippery that it’s likely to move out of place on it’s own.
     
    Step twenty-eight: Attach the button covers
     
    After a full 24 hours from the initial gluing has passed, all your work pays off.  Visually look it over one last time, measure AGAIN if you want, and then you can proceed to snap the button covers fully onto the inserts, and enjoy your beautiful new rank bar.
     

     
    Step twenty-nine: Apply the backing
     
    The timing of the very last step is up to you.  The glue SHOULD be pretty set at this point, but I still like to be careful (there’s a lot of glue in an enclosed space, in there).  E6000 fully cures in 72 hours, so that’s my preferred time to proceed, but it really depends on how much of a hurry you’re in.  I’ve done the last step sooner and been fine, just try to be gentle with the buttons a bit longer, and don’t leave them anywhere where anything is pressing on them.
     
    But the last step is to attach whatever attachment method you’re using to the back.  I use simple self-adhesive magnet bars from Amazon (see the DIY push button source thread linked at the top of this post).  Just peel off the sticker backing and stick on the back of the rank bar, and you’re done.  (I put something moderately heavy on top for a couple minutes to really stick the sucker on there)  Some prefer push pins, which would need to be epoxied into place, but that’s all up to the end user)
     

     
    Step thirty: There is no step thirty
     
    Et fini. You're done.   Stick on your costume and rock that rank!
     

     
    Happy Rank Bar making!
     
  8. Like
    kman reacted to IBC976 in Build your own Crew Headset for under ten bucks!   
    Those are a chore to drill through. The ones I ordered are metal covered plastic and easier to drill the access holes for the over wire & cable. The screw hole is reserved for the 3.5mm jack on the boom microphone (also coming from Amazon!).
     
    I’ll have a tutorial up hopefully early next week.
     
     
     
     
     
     
  9. Like
    kman reacted to Tentayena in Fabric for FO Lt.   
    Oh man, so I had to do a pretty big deep dive to try and figure out what I used for the CRL a zillion years ago, but i was actually successful!!

    The fabric I used was originally from the now defunct fabric.com, and was Kaufman Bi Stretch Gabardine in "charcoal"
    The manufacturer seems to still be around, and the fabric is listed on their website, but i didn't see a way to order it. 
    https://www.robertkaufman.com/fabrics/bistretch_gabardine/B065-1071/

    I found one site that was selling it, but i've personally never ordered from them before so I cannot vouch for them, and one person selling some yardage on etsy. There is also someone selling 55 yards of it on ebay for $350 if you know a lot of people who also want first order uniforms lol
    http://www.shushustyle.com/sss/item.aspx?ItemID=1022
    https://shorturl.at/oQX89

    I can't say with 100% certainty that this is the same fabric, but it looks EXTREMELY close from the pictures and the screenshots from my really old build thread

    I will also throw out there that the fabric is pretty lightweight, so it will need some decent interfacing if this is what you go with. 
    Good luck!!
  10. Like
    kman got a reaction from chicken45 in 3DREPLICAS SE-14r   
    I concur, "ask your GML" is probably the best advice, if you're concerned about being approved specifically with a specific piece.
     
    Personally, as long as it looks reasonably in the right ballpark, we tend to not get too into the weeds with blaster detail, particularly since Officer blasters spend the majority of their life in holsters anyway.
     
    As to the scope mount, the CRL language (which I suspect was copied from the Death Trooper language verbatim, but I have not double checked that yet), simply says "The scope mount looks similar to the magazine but smaller in size."  It doesn't spefically call out the grooves, so that would again be a GML call on how THEY interpret the language.  I'm not against modifying the line to allow for both grooved and ungrooved variants, though.
     
    I would not use the Stormtrooper SE14R as an example... that particular blaster only appeared in that one promo photo, and was never seen in ANH (aside from the Dr. Ezran model which was yet another different variant).  We would care more about the models actually seen in officer's hands, which I believe are usually more consistent.  Still, different productions have had different propmasters who sometimes made some slight variations, so none of these are set in stone the same way other blasters have been.  (noting that few blasters have ever been 100% consistent across even the same movie or show).
     
    The ones I can think of that would apply all have the charging handle on the right (costumer's right, when holding the blaster in hand).  I've seen scope adjustment knobs facing both ways, always up, but the second to the left or right.  From a shooting perspective, this would be end user preference.  (along with right-handed vs left handed differences)
     
    Here, it's to the right, and yet many other references show it to the left, so clearly there's an amount of dealer's choice at play.  On my own SE-14R, I set it up with the knob to my right, as below, because I just thought it looked better.  (It also holsters better with the bumpy bits facing the outside)
     

     
    @chicken45 Perhaps we should tweak the CRL language a little, for clarity on some of these points?  (The changes could affect several CRLs, though). Or did the text block come completely canned from the Death Trooper CRL?
  11. Like
    kman reacted to Coolajxl in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    Wanted to share clear side shot here of the Prison Commander from the Trivia Gallery. I don't recognize the compad style, is it new?
     

     
    https://www.starwars.com/andor-s1-e10-trivia-gallery?image_id=5ed0d2e97ea93ebd6b4f2a72
     
  12. Like
    kman reacted to JynInDisguise in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    Idk if I’d use cotton drill. A mid weight twill might be better drape wise. 
  13. Like
    kman got a reaction from Coolajxl in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    At one point I seem to recall Gio at CrowProps actually bought an original boot, and was going to offer recreations.  Not sure if that actually made it to market.
     
    Cosplayers get crazy creative... I'm sure something approximating the boots could be mocked up from a vaguely similar boot, regardless.
     
    That said, yeah, if no one can make them, I guess jack boots would be our only option.
  14. Haha
    kman reacted to Fox in Can you have a sidearm with the olive Line Officer CRL?   
    What about light sabers? That one Officer hands Luke's saber over to Vader in ROTJ. 
  15. Like
    kman got a reaction from Hask in Can you have a sidearm with the olive Line Officer CRL?   
    We did not see any olive-uniformed line officers in the OT carrying any sidearms, so they are not in the CRL.
  16. Like
    kman reacted to Calphrick in Magnoli Clothiers question   
    Thank you so much for the advice!
  17. Like
    kman got a reaction from Aesmodan in Aesmodan's SE-14r build!   
    If it helps any, here's mine.  Different 3D file source, printed myself, but many of the basics are the same.  I later applied minor weathering and replaced the ejection port cover.
     

     
    Using a real scope helps tremendously, IMO.  A simple 4x rimfire scope from Walmart did the trick for me... I think they may be a little more than the $20 I paid now, but still quite affordable.  And yes, mounted backwards is canon!
     
     
  18. Thanks
    kman got a reaction from haringjr in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    WOW, super lucky!
  19. Like
    kman reacted to haringjr in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    Good news! I have a pair of what seem to be ultra rare Burton boots, in the correct color, in my size. Found them on eBay. This was the only time I've seen them in that color, and the only example I've found out in the world currently. 

    I also got the additional straps and pads. 

    I'll post up photos. 



     
  20. Like
    kman got a reaction from Hesikaya in Imperial Coffee mug from Andor   
    Worry about getting chewed out by your commanding officer, perhaps, but it's there, in-universe, as far as that's concerned LOL
     
    And yes, walking around a troop with a cup of caf is a joy. 
     

     

  21. Like
    kman reacted to chicken45 in Star Wars: Visions - Ochō   
    We are ready to run with this!
     
    http://www.501st.com/include/images/crlblackhd.gif   Lieutenant Ochō Model ID-8588, Photo by IC-52278    
    Description: Lieutenant Ocho
    Prefix: ID
    Detachment: Imperial Officer Corps
    Context: Star Wars: Visions

    Ochō was a human female who lived on the Outer Rim planet Tao during the Imperial Era, and the daughter of a powerful crime family. Ochō's father supported the rebellion, but Ochō joined the Empire.
       
    For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.
    The Imperial Officer Corps Defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 “Executor” are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 “Imperator” are listed in red.
     

    This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.  
    This document is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. Details on construction may be found on the respective costume detachment web forum. GMLs uncertain about an aspect of submitted costume shall post questions in the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the Legion forum. Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval. Requirements for all 501st costumes are proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size. Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume.

        Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below.
       
    Hair and facial appearance. Hair must be black, and not extend to the shoulder, matching references. Red makeup in the "cat's eye" style is present on the eyes, matching references.    
    OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hair appears natural. If a hair appliance is used it is styled in a way as to not give the appearance of a wig.  
       
     
    Tunic Tunic is constructed of a medium to heavy white twill weave fabric that. Wool or wool-like twill weave is preferred. Double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke. Yoke wraps across the shoulder to the top shoulder seam. The standing collar has square corners and is approximately 2 inches tall. Collar closes flush and snug; modesty panel is acceptable but not required. Two code cylinder pockets on both outside panels of the jacket located half way between the top and bottom on the arm hole. Wrist length sleeves without decoration, cuffs or buttons. Fasteners on the uniform must not be visible, including those that would hold the cape in place if present. Cape collar edge must lie flush to tunic collar edge. There is a welt pocket (functional, or non functional) approximately 4 inches long and following the angle of the cape's yoke on the left side.  
    OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a dart approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in the top center of the yoke. Sleeves contain 2 seams. One along the front and one along the back. Tunic is constructed without topstitching.  
       
    Rank Bar Rank consists of colored plastic tiles mounted on a single or metal looking bar. Worn on the left side of the tunic over the heart, aligned with the code cylinder pocket. The bar is approximately 1 inch (25.4 mm) to 1.25 inches (31.75 mm) in height. Rank bar has only three blue tiles and three red tiles in a single row. Rank tile dimensions and spacing are appropriate and proportional to the sizing of the bar to allow for even spacing from each other and the border of the bar: Rogue One/Solo style rank tile dimensions are approximately 0.59 inches (15 mm) wide, 0.82 inches (21 mm) tall, and 0.12 inches (3.2 mm) deep. Rank bar corners are a hard 90 degree angle, or slightly rounded. Rank tiles are translucent, rectangular, positioned side by side in a vertical orientation, and evenly spaced.  
     
    Code Cylinders Two code cylinders are worn on the uniform, both in the right cylinder pocket. Dosimeter style: True radiation dosimeters or exact replicas, with correct clip and blue top.  
     
     
    Cape The closure is located at the costumers right side. The collar overlaps and the opening is approximately 2.5 inches on the shoulder, going down vertically to the bottom of the yoke. The yoke is flush against the costumer and may have a seam down the front center, this ends in a point. The cape is similar in design to other Imperial Ponchos, but this does not have a front. There is nothing below the yoke. The edge of the cape has approximately 1 inch seam around all edges. The collar is approximately 3 inches tall at the front and is top stitched with lines approximately every 1/4 inch. The back of the cape is flat across the back. The cape voids at the edge of the costumers shoulders. The front of the poncho has a piece attached to the yoke but separate from the sides  
     
    Jodhpur Trousers, Black Fabric is a medium weight suiting material matching the tunic. Cavalry Twill or a Gabardine style weave is most accurate. Version One trousers are flared riding breeches, with semi-stiff flares to the hip/thigh area. Breeches are worn with boots. Breeches are neatly pressed or ironed without creases. Pockets are acceptable, although must not be visible with the tunic on.  
     
    Gloves Black, wrist length gloves constructed of a smooth, non-textured leather or leather-like material. Enclosed fingers. No buckles, straps, etc.  
     
     
    Belt The belt is constructed from a black, non-textured, leather, or a leather-like material. Approximately 2 inches (50.8 mm) in width, up to 2.5 inches (63.5 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1 inch (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the buckle. It is preferred to wear the snap to the left of the wearer, unless emulating a specific licensed character. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2.6250 inches (66.7 mm) high and 4.1250 inches (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5 inches (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with an un-notched Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles.  
    OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at the top and bottom edge along the length of the belt. Buckle has a slight horizontal curve.  
       
    Officer Boots Knee-high, black, riding style, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material. There are no buckles, snap tabs, or decoration. The there are no center seams on the front shaft of the boot. Boots have conservative heels. A single stretch panel or zipper may be present, they are to be hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft. Not visible from the front, side or back. The top of the boots may be flat or Spanish Style, but not Cowboy or Super Hero (pointed at the front) style. A small V-shaped notch may be present on the back of the boots top.  
    OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather and may have hidden zippers. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Exact replicas of English riding (dress) boots, German marching boots, or Equestrian boots. Boots have a top adjustment strap on the outside of the boots. Boots to have a flat top. The straps are set slightly to the rear with the tabs facing the rear.
  22. Like
    kman got a reaction from PiotrRasputin in Officer Hat Vendors   
    Try heavy steam?  A steamer is super useful, else your iron's steamer may suffice.  Be careful not to use too hot an iron on Wampa's fabric, as the polyester threads are very fine and can MELT if too much heat is used.
  23. Thanks
    kman got a reaction from haringjr in Narkina 5 Prison Guard   
    I'm running out the door, but off the top of my head: I seem to recall we did see both, right?  Or did they ALL wear the ski boots?  I haven't had coffee yet so the brain isn't up and running just now. LOL
     
    But we would probably (normally) build the CRL with the most common configuration... assuming we can find someone who actually has the costume set up that way.  But then make Jack boots an optional variant.
  24. Like
    kman got a reaction from chicken45 in Grand Admiral Thrawn (Ahsoka Season 1)   
    All of this looks good.  Once we're ready to pull the trigger, though, we'll ask you to email us the original photos, so we can do the photoshopping and work with the maximum resolution possible for the CRL.
  25. Like
    kman got a reaction from Escrich in Attendant Silver/Grey color   
    That fabric looks a little more silver and a bit lighter than ideal, if I'm being honest, but it's in the right ballpark.  Accurate greys are going to be the death of us LOL  It's almost has varied as feldgrau.
     
    Stealing an image from another thread:

     
    Note the variation in lightness just based on lighting... the guys on the left side, near the wall, with less direct light, look WAY darker than Heert (next to Meero), more in the middle of the corridor and under the main lights.  That being said, I think the guys on the left are closer to the correct shade: A bit darker, when the lighting isn't blowing it out.
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