SamWinchester97

I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

Front bottom layer:

Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

Front middle layer:

Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

Front top:


I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

This is how the entire top looks together: 

It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

Yoke back:

So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

Front left: 


Front top right: 


I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

Front bottom right: 


This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

Roughly how the front goes together: 


I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

Here's my final.

A few months ago, in January to be more exact, I made a rain poncho, guiding me a little about Angelus' work and screenshots of the film.
I made a tutorial for the forum of Spanish Garrison, and now I will be translating it here little by little. I hope you like it

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Fabric: Black nylon 100% waterproof. 3 meters x 1.5 meters.

The rain poncho consist in three main parts: yoke and collar(blue), cape (black) and breastplate(green).

Let's go with the first one.
 
Cape
 
Cape is the most easy part. Consist of two rectangles, wich length is the size from the neck to the upper part of the boots, and width comes from the same point of the neck to the top of your fingers, putting your arms cross.

Then you have to sew it together only on the red line, a little bit more of the half.

 
Yoke and collar
 
This part consist in another four parts: back, front right side, front left side and collar.
 
Back:

I give you mi sizes as reference. It's based on a XL size from CosplaySky suit.

On the last image, the red line correspond to the seams need to be visible, about a 1" from the border.
 
Next, the front left side (from the wearer's point of view) consist in two pieces:



H.2 and H.3 need to be sew it together at the middle. H.3 will be on top of the front right piece. H.4 is the front right piece:

Now that's how it should look:


Grey part from H.4 will be hidden by H.3
Again, visible seams are required. Red are 1" from the border, blue are 1/2":

 
Bib

So sorry if 'bib' it's not the correct name for this piece.
 
The bib is quite simple to make. It consists of four sections, namely: two symmetrical sections, one inch wide, which will go on each side of the bib. A four-inch section on the left side, seen from the front, which will contain the pocket for the dosimeters, and finally a fourth central section.



 
The two outer sections will go down to the edge of our suit jacket, while the other two inner sections will be two inches longer. Remember, once again, to leave seam allowances when cutting the fabric.
 
The pocket in my case I made it four inches deep, enough to contain the dosimeters (at least the ones I have, manufactured by Malakili). For this I simply cut that section with the calculated length, plus twice the depth of the pocket, that is, eight inches. In this way simply by folding we get the pocket.
 
The fourth and last section, the central one, is the simplest. Simply calculate the width to fill in the full width of the shoulder / neck part.
 
And finally the visible seams. Across the bottom, seam to approximately a quarter of an inch to finish off the edge. Another quarter-inch seam in the center section over the pocket section. And most importantly, two cross seams in the pocket section. One inch horizontally from the edge of the pocket, and another vertically one inch to the left of the section. In this way we will "divide" the pocket in two, one of an inch almost useless and the other of three inches where the dosimeters will go. Earlier I said that this section will be four inches, although we now have a pocket really three inches wide. Keep in mind that a pocket less than two and a half inches wide we can have trouble putting two dosimeters.
 


 
Another measure that I have forgotten to comment on before, is that the pocket will be approximately two inches from the top edge.
 
And another thing to keep in mind when joining the three parts of the poncho, is that you have to form a "sandwich" in the following order from outside to inside: shoulders, cape and bib. I will leave some photos where I hope you can see well what I mean.