KDKdesign

Ok I've finally finished the detailed and (mostly) to scale drawings of my Cloak/Cape pattern. I still need to work on the wording of how to describe everything for the cRL, but the pictures really help. I also have this cloak/cape available to order at my etsy shop now: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
 

 

 
To see more of my commission work, check out my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/thecostumemakersguidetothegalaxy/
 
 
 
 

Ok I've finally finished the detailed and (mostly) to scale drawings of my Cloak/Cape pattern. I still need to work on the wording of how to describe everything for the cRL, but the pictures really help. I also have this cloak/cape available to order at my etsy shop now: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
 

 

 
To see more of my commission work, check out my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/thecostumemakersguidetothegalaxy/
 
 
 
 

I haven't forgotten about needing to share the drawing of my final cape design - I'm still recovering from the pre-celebration craziness.
 
I'm glad you guys already pointed out a major error in the original CRL that I agree with - slit definitely starts around crotch level not knees - when I measured the photos, it appeared that the slit started at the halfway point of the center back seam (starting where the seam meets the top yoke). I don't think the wording has to be that exact though - I think 'around crotch level' may be enough.
 
I also have a possible answer to why there's topstitching on the yoke - it's better if I show my photo evidence for it so I save the questions about why I think it. Hopefully I'll be back with more info for you guys sooner than later
 
For now here's some photos of my final cape:
http://s1208.photobucket.com/user/Obi_Wan_Dombek/slideshow/Krennic_Cape

It's a minor note compared to the rest of this, but the wording for the slit in the back of the cape is wrong. It definitely does not begin below the knee, it should come up about to the crotch. 

I agree with Meg that abuse wouldn't make it look like top-stitching. If it is was a seam, there would be shadowed dark solid line where the 2 folded edges of the fabric meet when seamed together - but the only shadowed fold line is the folded edge of the yoke's outer side. Also the single angled line of top-stitching going through the yoke looks just like the 3 rows of top-stitching edging the yoke's side edge in terms of coloration and spacing of broken up dark shadows from the individual stitches.
 

 
I also think the top-stitching goes up to the High Point Shoulder (HPS) - which is where the shoulder seam (if there was one) would meet the collar - just like Meg said. I just didn't want to say that for certain until I draped the cape.
 
I'm meeting up with Mark this weekend to fit his jacket, and I'll get measurements for his cape - once I drape out the pattern, I'll post more info and a detailed drawing on how the cape is constructed.

I agree with Meg that abuse wouldn't make it look like top-stitching. If it is was a seam, there would be shadowed dark solid line where the 2 folded edges of the fabric meet when seamed together - but the only shadowed fold line is the folded edge of the yoke's outer side. Also the single angled line of top-stitching going through the yoke looks just like the 3 rows of top-stitching edging the yoke's side edge in terms of coloration and spacing of broken up dark shadows from the individual stitches.
 

 
I also think the top-stitching goes up to the High Point Shoulder (HPS) - which is where the shoulder seam (if there was one) would meet the collar - just like Meg said. I just didn't want to say that for certain until I draped the cape.
 
I'm meeting up with Mark this weekend to fit his jacket, and I'll get measurements for his cape - once I drape out the pattern, I'll post more info and a detailed drawing on how the cape is constructed.

OK last one for tonight - I'll tackle diagramming all the other seams later, but here's how the Arm Slit openings are made. If you know how to make a bound buttonhole, it is very similar. And of course there's a layer of fabric underneath everything to fill in/close up the opening so you can't really put your arm through it (probably so it didn't gap open all the time). It's way, way past my bedtime - more later!
 

Next topic - Seams on Cape, part 1
 
#1 - Basically the whole front edge of the cape: collar, yoke, and front side panel - are all 2 layers of fabrics with a seam on the edge. The Collar & yoke have a single line of topstitching .25" way from the edge, while the front side panel has no topstitching along the edge.
 
#2 - That angled stitching on the front panel - it has a seam along the top edge of the 3 lines of topstitching. I suspect this was an easy way for the costume makers to consistently mark on both sides where they wanted that those lines of stitching to go. But anyway - there's a seam there and then the 3 topstitching lines right below, the seam is only on the front layer of fabric, but I think the topstitching goes through both layers of fabric.
 

Hello! My name is Katie D Keith. I've been invited by Mark to work with Meg to figure out how to correct and improve the CRL for the Krennic Cape. I have not been active on the forum but I've been making 501st costumes for the last few years - Mark was my first costumer. I have a Associated Degree in Costume Construction from Indiana University (IU) and a MA in Apparel Design from Cornell. I taught Fashion Design Illustration at IU for 3.5 years before I had my son, who's is turning 3 this weekend. I actually found out I was pregnant the day after I met Mark for his first fitting. My son kept me quite busy for awhile, but now I'm finally getting a chance to spend more time working on costume commissions, and I'm known for making the First Order hats. So basically my background is strong in clothing construction knowledge, thorough research skills, and teaching through effective communication, both verbal and visual. I learned when teaching how important it was to clearly communicate my instructions to best achieve consistent understanding by my many students. I also have a very keen eye for details from my Master's research and all the grading I did as a professor. And what I'm also offering you is a fresh eye and perspective to this wonderful lot of photos that provide so much info about this costume as well as the images from the Rogue One Visual Guide. (I am also working on a Krennic costume for Mark so I've been researching it for awhile myself - and the cape is my next part)
 
Now onto my findings... first up, Cape Yoke & Collar
 
#1 Cape Yoke Length: I agree that we don't need specific measurements for the cape yoke on the CRL when landmarks or providing a range of measurements will do (I've had issues with specific measurements that were too big for the size I was making). But I did figure out why those yoke measurements were shorter than expected. It is because the Cape collar sits down away from the jacket collar, say about .5"-1", and the yoke side ends somewhere past the jacket princess seams but before the end of the jacket/sleeve seam, about 1" or more depending on how the cape is laying. You can see the how the cape portion goes out level with the yoke and then drops down over the edge of the jacket along the sleeve. But as pictured, this yoke is not meant to extend the full length from jacket collar to jacket sleeve seam. The front edge of the yoke starts about a 1" or less from the jacket collar and ends about 1" or more away from the jacket's edge, some where between the jacket princess seam and the sleeve seam.
 
#2: Cape & Jacket Collars: I like to use items in the photo that have known size and relate it to other parts of the costume - though i know it isn't perfect, it at least gives me a rough idea of proportions. Based on this, I think that both collars are roughly the same height - a bit longer than the height of the rank bar, so maybe ~2.8"-3", as I think the jacket collar does extend a bit more below the front jacket. The reason that the cape collar is lower than the jacket is because it is attached down away from the jacket collar, as explained in #1. The stitching lines on the cape collar are also a good indicator of overall height - I'd agree there about .25" apart so the collar again should be at least 2.75" - maybe almost 3".
 
Yay! Higher resolution version:
 

I'm working on a full diagram on the cape front, back, top - but it is going to take some time and I think I need to drape my pattern of the cape to get a better idea of the part proportions/sizes. In the meantime - I'll post my research as I figure things out.
 
The line on the back side of the yoke - it is a single line of topstitching (not a seam) that goes from the collar straight to the stitching on the side panel's back seam - it probably even is a continuous line of stitching from yoke onto the cape seam.
 

I'm working on a full diagram on the cape front, back, top - but it is going to take some time and I think I need to drape my pattern of the cape to get a better idea of the part proportions/sizes. In the meantime - I'll post my research as I figure things out.
 
The line on the back side of the yoke - it is a single line of topstitching (not a seam) that goes from the collar straight to the stitching on the side panel's back seam - it probably even is a continuous line of stitching from yoke onto the cape seam.
 

OK last one for tonight - I'll tackle diagramming all the other seams later, but here's how the Arm Slit openings are made. If you know how to make a bound buttonhole, it is very similar. And of course there's a layer of fabric underneath everything to fill in/close up the opening so you can't really put your arm through it (probably so it didn't gap open all the time). It's way, way past my bedtime - more later!
 

Hello! My name is Katie D Keith. I've been invited by Mark to work with Meg to figure out how to correct and improve the CRL for the Krennic Cape. I have not been active on the forum but I've been making 501st costumes for the last few years - Mark was my first costumer. I have a Associated Degree in Costume Construction from Indiana University (IU) and a MA in Apparel Design from Cornell. I taught Fashion Design Illustration at IU for 3.5 years before I had my son, who's is turning 3 this weekend. I actually found out I was pregnant the day after I met Mark for his first fitting. My son kept me quite busy for awhile, but now I'm finally getting a chance to spend more time working on costume commissions, and I'm known for making the First Order hats. So basically my background is strong in clothing construction knowledge, thorough research skills, and teaching through effective communication, both verbal and visual. I learned when teaching how important it was to clearly communicate my instructions to best achieve consistent understanding by my many students. I also have a very keen eye for details from my Master's research and all the grading I did as a professor. And what I'm also offering you is a fresh eye and perspective to this wonderful lot of photos that provide so much info about this costume as well as the images from the Rogue One Visual Guide. (I am also working on a Krennic costume for Mark so I've been researching it for awhile myself - and the cape is my next part)
 
Now onto my findings... first up, Cape Yoke & Collar
 
#1 Cape Yoke Length: I agree that we don't need specific measurements for the cape yoke on the CRL when landmarks or providing a range of measurements will do (I've had issues with specific measurements that were too big for the size I was making). But I did figure out why those yoke measurements were shorter than expected. It is because the Cape collar sits down away from the jacket collar, say about .5"-1", and the yoke side ends somewhere past the jacket princess seams but before the end of the jacket/sleeve seam, about 1" or more depending on how the cape is laying. You can see the how the cape portion goes out level with the yoke and then drops down over the edge of the jacket along the sleeve. But as pictured, this yoke is not meant to extend the full length from jacket collar to jacket sleeve seam. The front edge of the yoke starts about a 1" or less from the jacket collar and ends about 1" or more away from the jacket's edge, some where between the jacket princess seam and the sleeve seam.
 
#2: Cape & Jacket Collars: I like to use items in the photo that have known size and relate it to other parts of the costume - though i know it isn't perfect, it at least gives me a rough idea of proportions. Based on this, I think that both collars are roughly the same height - a bit longer than the height of the rank bar, so maybe ~2.8"-3", as I think the jacket collar does extend a bit more below the front jacket. The reason that the cape collar is lower than the jacket is because it is attached down away from the jacket collar, as explained in #1. The stitching lines on the cape collar are also a good indicator of overall height - I'd agree there about .25" apart so the collar again should be at least 2.75" - maybe almost 3".
 
Yay! Higher resolution version:
 

OK last one for tonight - I'll tackle diagramming all the other seams later, but here's how the Arm Slit openings are made. If you know how to make a bound buttonhole, it is very similar. And of course there's a layer of fabric underneath everything to fill in/close up the opening so you can't really put your arm through it (probably so it didn't gap open all the time). It's way, way past my bedtime - more later!
 

OK last one for tonight - I'll tackle diagramming all the other seams later, but here's how the Arm Slit openings are made. If you know how to make a bound buttonhole, it is very similar. And of course there's a layer of fabric underneath everything to fill in/close up the opening so you can't really put your arm through it (probably so it didn't gap open all the time). It's way, way past my bedtime - more later!
 

Hello! My name is Katie D Keith. I've been invited by Mark to work with Meg to figure out how to correct and improve the CRL for the Krennic Cape. I have not been active on the forum but I've been making 501st costumes for the last few years - Mark was my first costumer. I have a Associated Degree in Costume Construction from Indiana University (IU) and a MA in Apparel Design from Cornell. I taught Fashion Design Illustration at IU for 3.5 years before I had my son, who's is turning 3 this weekend. I actually found out I was pregnant the day after I met Mark for his first fitting. My son kept me quite busy for awhile, but now I'm finally getting a chance to spend more time working on costume commissions, and I'm known for making the First Order hats. So basically my background is strong in clothing construction knowledge, thorough research skills, and teaching through effective communication, both verbal and visual. I learned when teaching how important it was to clearly communicate my instructions to best achieve consistent understanding by my many students. I also have a very keen eye for details from my Master's research and all the grading I did as a professor. And what I'm also offering you is a fresh eye and perspective to this wonderful lot of photos that provide so much info about this costume as well as the images from the Rogue One Visual Guide. (I am also working on a Krennic costume for Mark so I've been researching it for awhile myself - and the cape is my next part)
 
Now onto my findings... first up, Cape Yoke & Collar
 
#1 Cape Yoke Length: I agree that we don't need specific measurements for the cape yoke on the CRL when landmarks or providing a range of measurements will do (I've had issues with specific measurements that were too big for the size I was making). But I did figure out why those yoke measurements were shorter than expected. It is because the Cape collar sits down away from the jacket collar, say about .5"-1", and the yoke side ends somewhere past the jacket princess seams but before the end of the jacket/sleeve seam, about 1" or more depending on how the cape is laying. You can see the how the cape portion goes out level with the yoke and then drops down over the edge of the jacket along the sleeve. But as pictured, this yoke is not meant to extend the full length from jacket collar to jacket sleeve seam. The front edge of the yoke starts about a 1" or less from the jacket collar and ends about 1" or more away from the jacket's edge, some where between the jacket princess seam and the sleeve seam.
 
#2: Cape & Jacket Collars: I like to use items in the photo that have known size and relate it to other parts of the costume - though i know it isn't perfect, it at least gives me a rough idea of proportions. Based on this, I think that both collars are roughly the same height - a bit longer than the height of the rank bar, so maybe ~2.8"-3", as I think the jacket collar does extend a bit more below the front jacket. The reason that the cape collar is lower than the jacket is because it is attached down away from the jacket collar, as explained in #1. The stitching lines on the cape collar are also a good indicator of overall height - I'd agree there about .25" apart so the collar again should be at least 2.75" - maybe almost 3".
 
Yay! Higher resolution version:
 

Hello! My name is Katie D Keith. I've been invited by Mark to work with Meg to figure out how to correct and improve the CRL for the Krennic Cape. I have not been active on the forum but I've been making 501st costumes for the last few years - Mark was my first costumer. I have a Associated Degree in Costume Construction from Indiana University (IU) and a MA in Apparel Design from Cornell. I taught Fashion Design Illustration at IU for 3.5 years before I had my son, who's is turning 3 this weekend. I actually found out I was pregnant the day after I met Mark for his first fitting. My son kept me quite busy for awhile, but now I'm finally getting a chance to spend more time working on costume commissions, and I'm known for making the First Order hats. So basically my background is strong in clothing construction knowledge, thorough research skills, and teaching through effective communication, both verbal and visual. I learned when teaching how important it was to clearly communicate my instructions to best achieve consistent understanding by my many students. I also have a very keen eye for details from my Master's research and all the grading I did as a professor. And what I'm also offering you is a fresh eye and perspective to this wonderful lot of photos that provide so much info about this costume as well as the images from the Rogue One Visual Guide. (I am also working on a Krennic costume for Mark so I've been researching it for awhile myself - and the cape is my next part)
 
Now onto my findings... first up, Cape Yoke & Collar
 
#1 Cape Yoke Length: I agree that we don't need specific measurements for the cape yoke on the CRL when landmarks or providing a range of measurements will do (I've had issues with specific measurements that were too big for the size I was making). But I did figure out why those yoke measurements were shorter than expected. It is because the Cape collar sits down away from the jacket collar, say about .5"-1", and the yoke side ends somewhere past the jacket princess seams but before the end of the jacket/sleeve seam, about 1" or more depending on how the cape is laying. You can see the how the cape portion goes out level with the yoke and then drops down over the edge of the jacket along the sleeve. But as pictured, this yoke is not meant to extend the full length from jacket collar to jacket sleeve seam. The front edge of the yoke starts about a 1" or less from the jacket collar and ends about 1" or more away from the jacket's edge, some where between the jacket princess seam and the sleeve seam.
 
#2: Cape & Jacket Collars: I like to use items in the photo that have known size and relate it to other parts of the costume - though i know it isn't perfect, it at least gives me a rough idea of proportions. Based on this, I think that both collars are roughly the same height - a bit longer than the height of the rank bar, so maybe ~2.8"-3", as I think the jacket collar does extend a bit more below the front jacket. The reason that the cape collar is lower than the jacket is because it is attached down away from the jacket collar, as explained in #1. The stitching lines on the cape collar are also a good indicator of overall height - I'd agree there about .25" apart so the collar again should be at least 2.75" - maybe almost 3".
 
Yay! Higher resolution version: