Hawk

My 7 year old daughter is probably the most fanatic Star Wars fan out there today.  We got a puppy for her birthday.  A pure bred Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.  We registered him with the American Canine Association.  My daughter picked the name.  Check out his official papers.
 

 
but he loves his ewok.

The hat is decent. It matters more that there is no size on it. Those things vary greatly...
 
If you want a critical view on it:
The shape is choppy. The top of the brims should end sharply at the top of the hat, these are a little below. I like bulleted lists. The visor and front flap should form a straight line, not a curve. The stitching is too close on the visor. The lining is too large.  
I would give it a solid "C+" It's a good $25.00 USD hat, not a $52.00 hat. But I make them so I am a little more critical than most.

After I straight stitch the sleeves and back, I zig-zag stitch the edge. I use a pretty large zig-zag, about a 1/4" total. I like it to end on the edge of the fabric, to replicate an overhand stitch. Not everyone has a Serger, and this does a fine job of closing the edge.

After that, I press... and press... and press...


After all the pressing is done, I tend to use a heat bonding seam tape. Dritz Stitch Witchery, or Heat-N-Bond are 2 available over here in the states. I do this for EVERY seam; most people don't do this, and that is fine. If you are going to skip a step, that is the step to skip, But I still do it. It just leaves a nicer seam when everything is said and done.


Something to keep in mind is that there is NO top stitching. Ironing now is the best way to get a great result. Don't rush, don't half-ass it. Take your time and do a great job.

Alright. First off this is going to be a work in progress tutorial. I would say that this is a intermediate level tutorial. You should know how the machine works and be confident that you can sew a straight line, and there is NOTHING wrong with getting some cheap fabric and making a mock up. I am going to upload it in stages. This is my first tutorial, so there are likely to be loads of questions and changes. I do ask that you let me finish it before asking., It should take me a few weeks.
 
The pattern I am using can be found at:
http://s268.photobucket.com/user/Hawk220/library/Officer%20Pattern%20ID
This pattern fits M-XL, (slight thin to slightly over weight) for anything else, the pattern will need to be modified.
 
You will need:
2 1/2 yards of Fabric at 52" wide
2 1/2 yards of Lining at 52" wide
4 yards of interfacing (I use 950F Shirtailor)
 
I will start this tutorial just after the pieces have been cut out. All seam allowances are 1/2 inch.

Alright. First off this is going to be a work in progress tutorial. I would say that this is a intermediate level tutorial. You should know how the machine works and be confident that you can sew a straight line, and there is NOTHING wrong with getting some cheap fabric and making a mock up. I am going to upload it in stages. This is my first tutorial, so there are likely to be loads of questions and changes. I do ask that you let me finish it before asking., It should take me a few weeks.
 
The pattern I am using can be found at:
http://s268.photobucket.com/user/Hawk220/library/Officer%20Pattern%20ID
This pattern fits M-XL, (slight thin to slightly over weight) for anything else, the pattern will need to be modified.
 
You will need:
2 1/2 yards of Fabric at 52" wide
2 1/2 yards of Lining at 52" wide
4 yards of interfacing (I use 950F Shirtailor)
 
I will start this tutorial just after the pieces have been cut out. All seam allowances are 1/2 inch.

The nice thing about Wool/Terylene blend (for the record Terylene IS a polyester) is that there is much less need for maintenance of the fabric. It's more resilient, and wrinkles less than a full wool. The color stays longer, and the fabric is much lighter. The wool blend should be less expensive, but it also is more prone to color variations. Some sheep just don't like hair dye as much as others. Given the choice, I'll always pick high quality wool, but that's just my preference. Wool/Terylene is nice to work with. The polyester in it causes the wool to behave better (less walk, uniform color, and no stretch) and the wool adds a bit of richness to the fabric; most 100% Polyesters have a reflective sheen to them.

Here are the rest of the pictures.
 

I have always viewed it as if you are playing a part, in costume, you are cosplaying. If you are only wearing or making a costume, then you are a costumer. But that is just my opinion, and likely to be wrong. 

I have always viewed it as if you are playing a part, in costume, you are cosplaying. If you are only wearing or making a costume, then you are a costumer. But that is just my opinion, and likely to be wrong.