BensID39999

I've been given the green light to start a costume build WIP by one of the Detachment Admins, and I'm going to need all the help I can get on that thread. This might just get off the ground.

This is the new E-11 Blaster toy for Sale at Disney Parks. They are available at gift shops in the Parks themselves, the main one in Downtown Disney, and are now starting to pop up on Ebay. Overall, the dimensions are much better than the Hasbro one, and feature good LED's and sounds. Before I take it apart and start to paint, I use a jeweler's saw to cut off the barrel endcap, sand it down, and sand off any logos.

 

 
The blaster is surprisingly easy to disassemble. This is necessary for painting because of the clear plastic guards where the light shows through. The main body is held together by 8 screws. Unlike the temperamental Nerf DH-17, there is no glue to contend with. The rear tube speaker end cap, scope, top rail, and rear sight are all just held in place. Did Disney know I wanted to repaint this thing?

 
Simply set trigger, easy to remove, simple wiring set up for your modders out there!

 
Here is the removable top rail and clear plastic light channel guard. All the fins are separate parts, a nice detail, but only the center seam one comes out easily. The LED's are held in place in the channel by a single screw.

 
Here is the other side, even simpler.

I was also thinking of the airplane mechanic from Raiders lol! You need one of those giant Soviet tank wrenches to heft around menacingly!

^^^This. Good advice for most adhesives used in costume building, but E6000 really reeks.

Attention on deck!
They could not have given the job to a better fellow!
We'll be getting with Bradley ASAP about said action items, & I'll make sure he has applicable access to everything needed. You already do as admin guru.
We have a list of suggested updates a mile long, but I'll ensure it's as quick & painless as possible.

Aloha Officers,
 
I apologize for the delay in posting this. Between election madness and then some work related travel I am finally getting a chance to sit down to use a keyboard that does not involve thumbs.
 
Please allow myself to introduce myself with a form letter going out on all the detachments forums. I am Eric Brager your Legion Membership Officer (LMO) for 2016. If you recognize the name Darth Aloha it is likely due to my involvement with FISD as a two time Detachment Leader (DL) and of course as your web host server dude. 
 
The LMO office this year is here to help. We will support the IOC's goals for updating and creating new CRLs. Through your DL we will be an advocate, advisor, and champion. Most of all we will be accessible and approachable. No longer are the LMOs aloof and unreachable.
 
Last year saw the a small but important changes to the Operating Protocols regarding CRLs. Section 7 states a few things that define a new working relationship between the detachments and the LMO. First is that a new costume may not be added to the Legion without completed CRL. Second is that the detachments are responsible for the creation and maintenance of the CRLs not the LMO. We do not make your CRLs. The result of these changes is that base level CRL requirements should not change unless the LMO and the DL are in agreement.  Thirdly and lastly the DL should solicit buy-in from the detachment community regarding changes.
 
In this new arrangement we have no choice but to work together. With that said every one of the 15 detachments will have an LMO representative assigned to them.
 
Your LMO rep is Bradley Graham (TB-3910/Sentry02) He will be logging into your forums and contributing to your community, if he isn’t already doing so. The LMO office needs to be active in your community. That way we may fully understand each detachment’s vision and needs if we are going to support your CRL needs.
 
What is the next step in this glorious shiny new hug-fest? I am asking the DL to send their LMO representative (or post up) a list of CRL goals as well as issues, concerns, gripes, problems, woes that we can help with. I will be integrating that list into my ongoing high level goals for 2016 that will be posted publically on the forums. I encourage any discussion between the dets and the LMO office to occur out in the open on the forums as much as possible. 
 
If anyone reading this (and hasn’t dozed off) has a question of any kind they are welcome to PM me anywhere or email me. Your DL will be receiving my phone number shortly and is welcome to text or call anytime for any reason.
 
Let’s get some poodoo done this year.
 
-Eric

only under the conference table

Awesome

So a couple of times i've been in my line officer and have had a kid salute me, i've returned it with a quick informal touch to the hat bill, kind of like a British Napoleonic era Naval salute. I don't see any problem with that, just definitely no open palm fascist style salutes please. Among our own, if Vader walks up to me, or a kid in a Vader costume, I customarily bow my head and say "My Lord" or something to that effect. Being from reenacting and Ren faire, I am used to adding more theatrical elements than some, just don't overdo it.

So a couple of times i've been in my line officer and have had a kid salute me, i've returned it with a quick informal touch to the hat bill, kind of like a British Napoleonic era Naval salute. I don't see any problem with that, just definitely no open palm fascist style salutes please. Among our own, if Vader walks up to me, or a kid in a Vader costume, I customarily bow my head and say "My Lord" or something to that effect. Being from reenacting and Ren faire, I am used to adding more theatrical elements than some, just don't overdo it.

So a couple of times i've been in my line officer and have had a kid salute me, i've returned it with a quick informal touch to the hat bill, kind of like a British Napoleonic era Naval salute. I don't see any problem with that, just definitely no open palm fascist style salutes please. Among our own, if Vader walks up to me, or a kid in a Vader costume, I customarily bow my head and say "My Lord" or something to that effect. Being from reenacting and Ren faire, I am used to adding more theatrical elements than some, just don't overdo it.

So a couple of times i've been in my line officer and have had a kid salute me, i've returned it with a quick informal touch to the hat bill, kind of like a British Napoleonic era Naval salute. I don't see any problem with that, just definitely no open palm fascist style salutes please. Among our own, if Vader walks up to me, or a kid in a Vader costume, I customarily bow my head and say "My Lord" or something to that effect. Being from reenacting and Ren faire, I am used to adding more theatrical elements than some, just don't overdo it.

Ben, I've posted a thread on the 501st Forum in the costume section, mainly because I'm not sure which group an Army Trooper would fall under. I see the IOC as a group that covers Officers of the Empire. Plus, there are non-film canon impressions that pop up that eventually get approved ( Imperial Combat Drivers come to mind). I know that this is a monumental uphill battle, but I'm willing to give it a shot.

This is the new E-11 Blaster toy for Sale at Disney Parks. They are available at gift shops in the Parks themselves, the main one in Downtown Disney, and are now starting to pop up on Ebay. Overall, the dimensions are much better than the Hasbro one, and feature good LED's and sounds. Before I take it apart and start to paint, I use a jeweler's saw to cut off the barrel endcap, sand it down, and sand off any logos.

 

 
The blaster is surprisingly easy to disassemble. This is necessary for painting because of the clear plastic guards where the light shows through. The main body is held together by 8 screws. Unlike the temperamental Nerf DH-17, there is no glue to contend with. The rear tube speaker end cap, scope, top rail, and rear sight are all just held in place. Did Disney know I wanted to repaint this thing?

 
Simply set trigger, easy to remove, simple wiring set up for your modders out there!

 
Here is the removable top rail and clear plastic light channel guard. All the fins are separate parts, a nice detail, but only the center seam one comes out easily. The LED's are held in place in the channel by a single screw.

 
Here is the other side, even simpler.

I don't know about the rest of you, but finding the right size is hard for me. My hands are long and large. So I decided to share some techniques for getting your right sized gloves derived from info I found at turtleskin.com
Tip #1
Use a glove sizing chart, such as one of the two listed below. Using either the width or length of your hand you can easily determine the correct size for your hand.
Glove Size from Hand Width Measurement:
Wrap a tailor’s measuring tape around your dominant hand just below the knuckles, excluding your thumb, and make a fist. Your dominant hand is the hand you use to hold a pen. If you don’t have a tailor’s soft tape, wrap a piece of string around your hand the same way as above, make a mark, and measure the length of the string with a ruler. This measure ment is your “hand width” glove size.
Glove Size Width
Glove Size US and (EN420)
6-7 Inches XS (6)
7-8 Inches S (7)
8-9 Inches M (
9-10 Inches L (9)
10-11 Inches XL (10)
11 + Inches XXL (10)
Glove Size from Finger Length Measurement:
Measure from the bottom edge of your palm – use the first crease at your wrist as the starting point. Measure to the tip of your middle finger. This measurement is your “finger length” glove size.
Glove Size US and (EN420)
6 5/16 Inches XS (6)
6 3/4 Inches S (7)
7 3/16 Inches M (
7 9/16 Inches L (9)
8 1/16 Inches XL (10)
8 7/16 + Inches XXL (10)
If your hand is anything like mine you will want to concentrate on the length as the primary glove sizing over width. Hand length is more important because you don’t want glove fingers that are too long or too short. If you have a heavy, muscular hand, using width can push you up a size, and the fingers may be too long, causing a loss in dexterity.
Tip #2:
Glove length is based on middle finger length. Glove manufacturers assume that the index finger is an average amount shorter than the middle finger, and produce gloves that match this assumption. However, the difference between middle finger length and index finger length has a lot of variation, so how do you find gloves that fit all of your fingers comfortably? For small hand sizes, if your index finger is shorter than your middle finger by 1/4 of an inch to 5/16 of an inch, go down one size. For larger hands, go down a size if your index finger is shorter than your middle finger by 1/2 an inch.
Tip #3:
Some people have heavy muscular palms and fingers. The way that a glove design can stay snug on a range of hand types is stretch. The more stretch in the glove material the better the glove will accommodate large diameter muscular fingers. Leather is not the highest stretch material used in gloves. Knit textile has higher stretch than leather. Perhaps consider gloves that are not all leather like a seamless knit glove.
Tip #4:
Select gloves as thin as possible and they will fit better and be easier to use.
Hope this helped!

Thank you Phil - I know you said it met the requirements - just wanted to check now I had changed the colour and that you were happy with it, which you have now confirmed
 
It may seem like you are repeating yourself but I just like to double check things to be sure - I never make assumptions 

That would not be inconceivable. Love that movie.
I am the brute squad.

Thanks! The flight suit is amazing.

1. Name: Chris Porta
 
2. 501st ID: IC-83838
 
3.IOC name: An0rak
 
4. Garrison Tyranus
 

 

 

 

 
 

Vinyl Cog and compad
 
 

Pointed Collar
 

Gloves
 

Curved belt Buckle
 
[/uR
 
 
Hat with notched disc
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Richard Le Parmienter

 
 
Julian Glover 

only under the conference table

Or you can use a Tie Back-Plate (which is a flat TK Back-Plate), like i suggested in my 1st post. 
All it is, is a Tie Back-Plate with: 3 Screw-Caps, a few Decals, Rubber Trim & a Revell Engine Greeblie.   ... Ohh & Olive in colour. 
 
 
TM hasn't revealed it yet, although he's just posted in the ACD that it will be revealed soon... This was probably because of you contacting him. 
I believe all he's had to make was a mold for the Back-Plate & make a new alteration to the Ab-Plate (for the snowflake greeblie). He already has most of the molds for his Snowtrooper & is using those as the base for this.
 
 
I think it's great that there's now a good number of Officers wanting to 'Armour-Up'.
To be a good AT-AT Commander, you need to be a good Line Officer.     ... It's a great Inter-Detachment / two-characters-in-one costume. 
It's also a quite rare character too, as it stands today, there are only 26 in the whole of the Legion.
 
The likes of MC & DL are great. Really top quality... But it frustrates me that they take so long with thier orders.
I get the whole "it's worth the wait" & i do sympathise with MC & DL as they can only do so much in a certain amount of time, but there's nothing stopping anyone collecting the required parts elsewhere from other makers & assembling together themselves.
 
People always say  "i love my DL armour".... I'm not surprised.... They waited nearly 2 years for it!  
 
 

Without pulling out the magnifying glass, it looks like you're pretty close already! Just make sure everything is pressed & looking it's sharpest. 

Congrats FEZ, welcome to the Officer's Club! I love the ROTJ Warrant Officer, shiny boxes! I will watch your career with interest