PArmstr
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Posts posted by PArmstr
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I am going to post the refences in here.
There were two types of gauntlets used in ANH. The first one was the pilot gauntlets that the TIE-fighter-pilots and X-Wing-pilots used. Thes gauntlets flare out a lot and gave seams on the back of their hands.
The second type of gauntlets was used by the navy troopers in dress uniform and the warrant officer. I call does vintage biker gloves. They do not flare out as much as the pilot gauntlet. They do not have any type of stitching or seams on the back of the hand. Instead they have a closure strap on the wrist.
In the ESB scanner and bridge crew did not wear gloves. The line officers had plain short leather gloves that had no seams or stitching on the back of their hand. There were no warrant officers in ESB.
The navy troopers in ESB had gauntlets that had a similar form to ANH but they did not have the closure straps.
In ROTJ the line officer, warrant officers and the IN in dress uniform wore leather gloves that went past the wrist and had stitching on the back of the hand. All gauntlets in ROTJ seem to have been pilot gauntlets. They all flare out a lot.
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The CRLs are inconsistant of seams/stitches on gloves/gauntlets because they are that way in the movies.
As far as I can tell all gauntlets that are worn by flight suit wearers while Vader and Plapatine arrive in ROTJ are TIE-Fighter-Pilot gauntlets. They flare out a lot and have seams on the back of there hands. The AT-ST drivers wear the same type of gaunltlets.
The warrant officer, line officers and the one IN dress uniform that you see during the landing of Darth Vader's shuttle have regular gloves that go past the wrist. Those gloves have stitches but those are different than the ones on the TIE-pilot gauntlets.
The gauntlets of the INs and warrant officer in ANH did not have stitching or seams on the back of there hand. Instead they had a band with a closure of some type around their wrist. The line officer is ESB has short leather gloves with no seams or stiching.
The short gloves that the line officer in ESB wear do not have seams or stiching on the back of there hand.
I will post reference photos as soon as I have uploaded them into my imgur account.
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I read all the new posts. I agree that it would probably be best solution to rename the existing Imperial Cadet CRL into Imperial Cadet - Rebels and leave the content as it is. I mean if we have officers from different sources with their own CRL then why should we not have more than one cadet CRL.
Are there any people planning on doing the imperial Officer Cadet from the Thrawn comic in the near future? If there are some, then it would be best for them to compile a CRL while creating their costume. We cannot publish a new CRL before we have photos of the costume anyway.
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I also think the helmet should be optional. It might help to get more people interested in this costume. Not everybody likes to wear a helmet.
- Tentayena, rattleandburn, GDMorti and 1 other
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4
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Thank you for complements. I added more links to my research if you want to see all the photos of the tunics and read a little bit of back round information.
I catually forgot something in the CRL. I still have the slit-pleat-thingy that started the whole process of my research. I added it to level 2 in the color purple.
Required Costume Components
The following costume components are present and appear as described below.
Imperial Hat, black
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material matching the pants and tunic if applicable.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6 mm) tall.
- Front and rear "flaps" overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6 mm) high.
- Front bill extends 3" down, decorated with 5, 6 or 7 concentric stitches.
- Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical flap.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Code Disk has a notch detail on the outermost disk.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Code disk exactly matches screen-used prop.
Tunic
For 501st approval:
- The tunic should be a off white or cream color
- Tunic is double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke.
- Yoke comes straight across from the collar center not coming up to the shoulder seam.
- The standing collar has square corners. It covers ½ or 2/3 of the neck. It closes with two hooks and eyse or one large hook. It does not have a modesty panel.
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Sleeves are long, and without decoration, cuffs or buttons,
containing 2 seams, one along the bottom and one along the back.(moved to level 3) - The ISB uniform shall not have the standard code cylinder pockets.
- Princess seams on the back shall be optional for this tunic.
- Darts and princess seams on the front are permitted for a better fit of the tunic
- A seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing the top from the skirt is optional.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a dart that goes from the top center of the yoke to bout the height of the rank bar.
- The point of the yoke goes slightly up to the shoulder
- There is a slit with pleats on the back of the skirt that goes from the waist seam all the way to the hem.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- There is a seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing it along a line hidden by the uniform belt.
- The back of the tunic has princess seams that run vertically and turn outward to intersect the arm-hole seam at the vertical center.
- There is a seam that runs down the middle of the back
- Sleeves have a seam that slits the sleeve into a upper sleeve and a lower sleeve
- The sleeves have cuffs.
- The material of the tunic is wool
- Lining is optional.
- Tunic must be secured on the right side by snaps or buttons, not Velcro. There is no topstitching visible anywhere and it must have a lining sewn in.
Rank Bar
For 501st approval:
- See the Imperial Rank Bar page for more information.
- Worn on the left side of the tunic over the heart.
- Rank consists of colored plastic tiles mounted on metal bar.
- Each bar is 1" (25.4 mm) height, length is determined by chosen rank
- Rank tile dimensions are 1/2" (12.7 mm)width x 3/4" (19 mm) height and about 1/8" (3.2 mm).
- Tiles are mounted with 1/4" (6.4 mm) spaces between them.
- Rank tiles are translucent.
- There are either three red & three blue, or three blue & three red rank tiles
For level two certification (if applicable):
- ·Belt box, code cylinder, and rank badge configuration is consistent with film canon officers.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Rank consists of colored plastic push buttons mounted on a metal bar.
Belt
For 501st approval:
- The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material.
- Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable.
- There are no loops on the belt.
- A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle.
- The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer.
- The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material.
- The buckle size is approximately 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1/8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners.
- Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center
- Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Belt is made of leather.
- Snap is worn to the left of the wearer.
- Buckle has a slight horizontal curve.
Trousers version 1 breeches/jodphurs
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material exactly matching the tunic and hat.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Flared riding breeches are canon.
- Breeches must be worn with boots.
- Pockets are acceptable, although they are not visible with the tunic on.
Foot wear version 1 riding boots
For 501st approval:
- Knee-high, black, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material.
- Rubber is not acceptable.
- PVC or synthetic material is allowed as long as it gives the appearance of leather.
- There are no stretch panels, buckles, snap tabs, or decoration.
- Boots have conservative heels.
- If zippers are present, they are hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft.
- Not visible from the front, side or back.
- The top of the boots may be flat or Spanish Style, but not Cowboy or Super Hero (pointed at the front) style.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Boots do not have a zipper.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Boots are made of leather.
- Not vinyl or PVC.
- Exact replicas of English riding (dress) boots or Equestrian boots
Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.
Dress shirt
For 501st approval:
· A white dress shirt may be worn under the tunic.
· The top of the collar and sleeve cuffs may be slightly visible, protruding from under the collar & sleeves of the tunic.
Belt Boxes
For 501st approval:
- Dimensions are approximately 2 1/2" (63.5 mm) by 3 1/2" (88.9 mm) by 1" (25.4 mm) thick..
- Two boxes may be worn horizontally. The belt boxes are placed between the belt buckle and the side seam of the tunic but are closer to the side seam.
- Placement of the screw / rivet for the belt boxes should be on the shortest side (top and bottom for vertical belt boxes, left and right for horizontal)
- An uneven number of boxes is incorrect.
- Box surfaces are smooth and have no decoration/ hinges/ visible holes or slots that do not appear on the screen-used boxes.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a covering on the back of each box with a slightly overlapping lip that is approximately 1/4” (6.35 mm).
- Covering is secured by a rivets or small screws, on the top and on the bottom.
Trousers, black version 2 dress pants
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material exactly matching the tunic and hat.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Pockets are acceptable, although not visible with the tunic on.
- Pants are neatly pressed or ironed.
- Pants smartly rest on the top of the shoes without bunching or giving any sloppy appearance.
Foots wear version 2 officer dress shoes
For 501st approval:- Black, non-textured, leather or leather-like material.
- Boots are free from any visible adornment, straps, buckles (etc).
- Officer shoes are only worn in conjunction with straight legged trousers.
- Not with jodhpur style pants.
- Optional: These officers may wear black Chelsea/ Jodhpur boots, similar to that of Stormtrooper boots.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Shoes are shined as would military dress shoe
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This CRL is based on my analysis of screen caps of ANH and my research about officers tunics of the Russian Imperial Army. The book Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy states on page 21 that those uniforms were used in ANH.
Links to my research:
This is a work in progress because I am still not a 100 percent sure which version of the tunic was used for the ISBs in ANH. I hope that some people will add their knowledge to the process. Changes to the old ISB CRL are in green. I also took out the information about the Rogue One version of the ISB tunic. Everything that is not visible in the movie but has to be there can be found in level 3.
Required Costume Components
The following costume components are present and appear as described below.
Imperial Hat, black
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material matching the pants and tunic if applicable.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6 mm) tall.
- Front and rear "flaps" overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6 mm) high.
- Front bill extends 3" down, decorated with 5, 6 or 7 concentric stitches.
- Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical flap.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Code Disk has a notch detail on the outermost disk.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Code disk exactly matches screen-used prop.
Tunic
For 501st approval:
- The tunic should be a off white or cream color
- Tunic is double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke.
- Yoke comes straight across from the collar center not coming up to the shoulder seam.
- The standing collar has square corners. It covers ½ or 2/3 of the neck. It closes with two hooks and eyse or one large hook. It does not have a modesty panel.
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Sleeves are long, and without decoration, cuffs or buttons,
containing 2 seams, one along the bottom and one along the back.(moved to level 3) - The ISB uniform shall not have the standard code cylinder pockets.
- Princess seams on the back shall be optional for this tunic.
- Darts and princess seams on the front are permitted for a better fit of the tunic
- A seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing the top from the skirt is optional.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a dart that goes from the top center of the yoke to bout the height of the rank bar.
- The point of the yoke goes slightly up to the shoulder
For level three certification (if applicable):
- There is a seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing it along a line hidden by the uniform belt.
- The back of the tunic has princess seams that run vertically and turn outward to intersect the arm-hole seam at the vertical center.
- There is a seam that runs down the middle of the back
- Sleeves have a seam that slits the sleeve into a upper sleeve and a lower sleeve
- The sleeves have cuffs.
- The material of the tunic is wool
- Lining is optional.
- Tunic must be secured on the right side by snaps or buttons, not Velcro. There is no topstitching visible anywhere and it must have a lining sewn in.
Rank Bar
For 501st approval:
- See the Imperial Rank Bar page for more information.
- Worn on the left side of the tunic over the heart.
- Rank consists of colored plastic tiles mounted on metal bar.
- Each bar is 1" (25.4 mm) height, length is determined by chosen rank
- Rank tile dimensions are 1/2" (12.7 mm)width x 3/4" (19 mm) height and about 1/8" (3.2 mm).
- Tiles are mounted with 1/4" (6.4 mm) spaces between them.
- Rank tiles are translucent.
- There are either three red & three blue, or three blue & three red rank tiles
For level two certification (if applicable):
- ·Belt box, code cylinder, and rank badge configuration is consistent with film canon officers.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Rank consists of colored plastic push buttons mounted on a metal bar.
Belt
For 501st approval:
- The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material.
- Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable.
- There are no loops on the belt.
- A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle.
- The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer.
- The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material.
- The buckle size is approximately 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1/8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners.
- Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center
- Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Belt is made of leather.
- Snap is worn to the left of the wearer.
- Buckle has a slight horizontal curve.
Trousers version 1 breeches/jodphurs
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material exactly matching the tunic and hat.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Flared riding breeches are canon.
- Breeches must be worn with boots.
- Pockets are acceptable, although they are not visible with the tunic on.
Foot wear version 1 riding boots
For 501st approval:
- Knee-high, black, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material.
- Rubber is not acceptable.
- PVC or synthetic material is allowed as long as it gives the appearance of leather.
- There are no stretch panels, buckles, snap tabs, or decoration.
- Boots have conservative heels.
- If zippers are present, they are hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft.
- Not visible from the front, side or back.
- The top of the boots may be flat or Spanish Style, but not Cowboy or Super Hero (pointed at the front) style.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Boots do not have a zipper.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Boots are made of leather.
- Not vinyl or PVC.
- Exact replicas of English riding (dress) boots or Equestrian boots
Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.
Dress shirt
For 501st approval:
· A white dress shirt may be worn under the tunic.
· The top of the collar and sleeve cuffs may be slightly visible, protruding from under the collar & sleeves of the tunic.
Belt Boxes
For 501st approval:
- Dimensions are approximately 2 1/2" (63.5 mm) by 3 1/2" (88.9 mm) by 1" (25.4 mm) thick..
- Two boxes may be worn horizontally. The belt boxes are placed between the belt buckle and the side seam of the tunic but are closer to the side seam.
- Placement of the screw / rivet for the belt boxes should be on the shortest side (top and bottom for vertical belt boxes, left and right for horizontal)
- An uneven number of boxes is incorrect.
- Box surfaces are smooth and have no decoration/ hinges/ visible holes or slots that do not appear on the screen-used boxes.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a covering on the back of each box with a slightly overlapping lip that is approximately 1/4” (6.35 mm).
- Covering is secured by a rivets or small screws, on the top and on the bottom.
Trousers, black version 2 dress pants
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material exactly matching the tunic and hat.
- Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Pockets are acceptable, although not visible with the tunic on.
- Pants are neatly pressed or ironed.
- Pants smartly rest on the top of the shoes without bunching or giving any sloppy appearance.
Foots wear version 2 officer dress shoes
For 501st approval:- Black, non-textured, leather or leather-like material.
- Boots are free from any visible adornment, straps, buckles (etc).
- Officer shoes are only worn in conjunction with straight legged trousers.
- Not with jodhpur style pants.
- Optional: These officers may wear black Chelsea/ Jodhpur boots, similar to that of Stormtrooper boots.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Shoes are shined as would military dress shoe
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Well, not all of us want this many tiny details but some do so that is why I created the different levels. Level 1 and 2 are things that we can see in the Blue Ray. The level 1 things can be seen quite easily. The level 2 things need some photo enhancement and a good eye for details. Level 3 represents knowledge that we have through the costume book and the real uniforms. I also want to make sure that we can have extra stitching, darts and seams for fitting. The thing is that some GMOs are very picky and by showing that there was extra stitching and seams that cannot be seam might help some people with the approval process. I also hope to create an ISB ANH and a Navy Trooper Rogue One in the same way. The Navy Troopers in Rogue One have a very similar tunic to the Navy Trooper in ANH.
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All changes that I made to the original post of the proposed CRL are shown in green.
Imperial Navy Helmet
For 501st approval:
- For more detailed images, see the Imperial Navy Helmet Detail page.
- 12" (304.8mm) diameter black plastic dome.
- Front and back covers with 1.5" (38.1mm) holes over-laid onto dome.
- Back "wing" extending about 4" (101.6mm) below the rim of the dome at the sides and about 7" (177.8mm) at the back, encompassing about half the circumference of the helmet.
- Ear blocks with a bend to match the flare of the "wing" over each ear at the front ends of the "wing" with geometric circle patterns in the top half and a spaced out area of "dimples" in the lower half.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Helmet must very closely match the details seen on screen
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Must exactly match a specific helmet worn on-screen.
Tunic
For 501st approval:
- Fabric should be black or a very dark blue
- Tunic is double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke.
-
Yoke comes straight across from the collar center
not coming up to the shoulder seam. - The standing collar has square corners and should cover ½ to 2/3 of the neck. A modesy panel can be present.
- Sleeves are long, and without decoration, cuffs or buttons
- Tunic shall not have the standard code cylinder pockets.
- Darts and princess seams on the front are permitted for a better fit of the tunic
- A seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing the top from the skirt is permitted
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a seam down the center of the yoke
- There is top stitching down the yoke about 50mm from the edge
- There is a slit on both side seams that goes up about 1/3 of the total length of the tunic
- Sleeves have two seams, one along the bottom and one along the back.
- The point of the yoke comes across and slightly up.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- The fabric should be wool
- There are princess seams on the back of the tunic
- There is a seam down the center of the back
- There shall be no seam running the entire circumference of the tunic
- There is top stitching on the top of the yoke running from the middle seam around the yoke down the hem. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the wrist area of the sleeve. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the bottom hem of the front and back of the tunic. The top stitching in about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the edge of the collar. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge
- There is lining inside the tunic
- Snaps or buttons hidden behind a panel are used for closure
- There shall not be extra darts or princess seams on the front
Black Gauntlet Gloves
For 501st approval:
- Black, leather or leather-like, enclosed fingered, non-textured, fitted gauntlet style.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Gauntlets are made of leather.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Gauntlets have a strap with a buckle around the wrist.
- Gaunlet have red lining
Belt
For 501st approval:
- The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material.
- Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable.
- There are no loops on the belt.
- A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer.
- The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material.
- The buckle size is approximately 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1/8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners.
- Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Belt is made of leather.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Snap is worn to the left of the wearer.
- Buckle has a slight horizontal
Trousers
For 501st approval:
- Trousers should be made of the same fabric as the tunic
- Trousers should have same color as tunic
- Pockets are acceptable, although not visible with the tunic on.
- Pants are neatly pressed with no center crease and are tucked into boots.
Boots
For 501st approval:
- Calf high black leather or leather like material.
- Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments.
- Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional.
- Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black.
- German "jack boot" style boots are most canon.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Boots are made of leather.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Original German jack boots (or ?Knobelbechers?) or an authentic replication thereof.
- Boots have the top adjustment strap.
Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present
appear as described below.
Belt Boxes
For 501st approval:
- Two vertical belt boxes, one on either side of the belt buckle
- Dimensions are approximately 2 1/2" (63.5 mm) by 3 1/2" (88.9 mm) by 1" (25.4 mm) thick.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Belt boxes should include a lid on back of the box.
- Project boxes are not allowed for level 2 and 3 clearance.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Belt boxes are constructed of metal.
Imperial Hat, black
For 501st approval:
- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material matching the pants and tunic if applicable. Gabardine style weave is most accurate.
- Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6 mm) tall.
- Front and rear "flaps" overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6 mm) high.
- Front bill extends 3" down, decorated with 5, 6 or 7 concentric stitches.
- Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical flap.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Code Disk has a notch detail on the outermost disk.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- Code disk exactly matches screen-used prop.
Holster
For 501st approval:
- Made of black leather or leather-like material.
For level two certification (if applicable):
- Holster should be made of leather
For level three certification (if applicable):
- DH-17 holster should be worn on the right side
- E-11 holster should be worn on the left side
DH-17 Blaster
For 501st approval:
- Scratch built, high-end prop replica or a modified commercial toy Rebel Trooper blaster.
BlasTech E-11
For 501st approval:
- Scratch-built, high-end prop replica or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
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I can add the red lining of the gauntlet on level 3. It can also be seen on the two IN that guard the door of the conference room. The princess seam cannot been seen it the movie itself that is the reason that I put it on level 3. The book Star Wars Costumes the original trilogy states on page 21 that NY police tunics were used. I found some old NYPD tunics on some auction sites. The princess seams can been seen clearly on those photos.
- Wombat and Paggeldiwwer
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2
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Here are some changes I want to make to my CRL proposal. First I want to take out the fabric suggestion on level 1 because it is wrong. On level 1 and 2 the fabric choice should be up to the costumer. We know that that the NY police tunics were made out of blue wool, which looked black on screne, so that should be stated in level 3. I am also taking out the exact height of the collar because everybody neck has a different length. I made the changes in green.
Tunic
For 501st approval:
- Fabric should be black or a very dark blue
- Tunic is double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke.
-
Yoke comes straight across from the collar center
not coming up to the shoulder seam. - The standing collar has square corners and should cover ½ to 2/3 of the neck. A modesy panel can be present.
- Sleeves are long, and without decoration, cuffs or buttons
- Tunic shall not have the standard code cylinder pockets.
- Darts and princess seams on the front are permitted for a better fit of the tunic
- A seam running the entire circumference of the tunic, dividing the top from the skirt is permitted
For level two certification (if applicable):
- There is a seam down the center of the yoke
- There is top stitching down the yoke about 50mm from the edge
- There is a slit on both side seams that goes up about 1/3 of the total length of the tunic
- Sleeves have two seams, one along the bottom and one along the back.
- The point of the yoke comes across and slightly up.
For level three certification (if applicable):
- The fabric should be dark blue wool.
- There are princess seams on the back of the tunic
- There is a seam down the center of the back
- There shall be no seam running the entire circumference of the tunic
- There is top stitching on the top of the yoke running from the middle seam around the yoke down the hem. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the wrist area of the sleeve. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the bottom hem of the front and back of the tunic. The top stitching in about 10mm from the edge.
- There is top stitching around the edge of the collar. The top stitching is about 10mm from the edge
- There is lining inside the tunic
- Snaps or buttons hidden behind a panel are used for closure
- There shall not be extra darts or princess seams on the front
- xAlpha and Paggeldiwwer
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2
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I agree with Steven. I also think it is the lighting that makes the color look different.
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Thank you very much. I looked at the web-page. There are many classes that I am interested in. I will try one out as soon as have some time and spare money.
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1 hour ago, Adianu said:
I think maybe it's a terminology thing. To me- "princess seam" = a vertical (ish) seam along the front- adjusted to how it's needed based on darts for women. I've never tailored for a man but I'd assume you just don't really need darts, so the pattern pieces would be shaped a bit differently.
Yes, part of it is definitively terminology. Until a couple of months ago I thought that only the roundish seams that go from the waist seam to the armhole were called princess seams. Then an IOC member posted a link that showed how you could turn the waist and bust dart into a princess seam that goes from the waist seam to the shoulder.
58 minutes ago, Adianu said:Oh also... here's the sloper I built the pattern from. (Based on a year ago today... omg I need to find more time to work, I'm still not finished!)
You can see that I need significant side darts, which are folded out, as well as darts at the waist and shoulder, which are cut out as part of the princess seam I'm talking about.
Wow, you can draft you own patterns. I can only change an existing pattern to some extent. I tried to learn how to make my own patterns but the books that I have were not much help.
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On 14.2.2018 at 5:06 AM, Adianu said:
Maybe I'm missing something here, but... the reference picture for staff officer looks like it does have princess seams on the front. They just go to the shoulder rather than the armpit (which is what the ones in the back do). In order to accommodate for the side darts that an armpit princess seam would take in, I extend the vertical darts up to the shoulder and fold out the side dart, resulting in a curvy tunic that doesn't have extra seams. Maybe it's a terminology thing- CRL doesn't call them princess seams in front, but I think you should be able to account for all of your darts within the standard seams in the front of the tunic. Does this make sense?
I think you are referring to the ANH staff officer. That is a new CRL. I do not know if you can call that kind of stitching princess seams. It is more like some top stitching on the front and back yoke that goes from the shoulder all the way down to the hem. I am not an expert on sewing and tailoring but I do not think that they have the same purpose as regular princess seams. Here are some links to photos of that type of uniform. Perhaps you can tell me if those are real princess seams or not.
http://www.clothearscostumes.com/portfolio/a-new-hope-451-officer/
http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/9246-anh-staff-officer-tunic-451-style/&
http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/9094-451-style-uniform-crl/
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I heard it last night from Andi Gutierrez from The Star Wars Show.
- bjsavage7 and Paggeldiwwer
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7 hours ago, buckrogersbarker said:
If you still have time... I recommend checking out:
https://www.facebook.com/OhDontRunWithScissors/That facebook page belongs to Antje Walzel she is a master seamstress. She is also a member of the IOC ID 36663. I have seen some of her work and it is awesome but I do not think that she does mail orders. As far as I know her costumers visit her and she takes their measurements. Her costumers also come back for test fittings.
- wcchaa and buckrogersbarker
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On 2/5/2018 at 12:49 AM, bjsavage7 said:
That's cool. And by the way, I'm definitely not arguing if it is or isn't there. I just want to be at least 90-95% certain before I go to the seamstress.
Another small detail I believe I've noticed is the texture itself is a bit more wooly-looking (if that makes sense) than the line officer uniform. I first noticed it zooming in on the Death Star Trooper. His silhouette gave a similar appearance of when holding a military wool blanket up to the light & noticing the "fuzz" around it's perimeter.
I am pretty sure that the fabric of the hall walker tunics is wool. It was used very often for uniforms in the past. The NY police tunics and some of the imperial Russian officer tunics I have found are made of wool. Even the Russian olive uniform that I posted in this thread is made of wool.
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2 hours ago, Paggeldiwwer said:
It is hard to see in a screencap but you will see it in the moviescene: there are princess-seams indeed:
The elevator-guy's tunic also Shows the seam continues down from the belt-line.
Please check this in the movie itself. I did so using the BlueRay and trying to take a picture in the best possible moment.
Unfortunately, I will not be able to check that. I have over 19 GB of Bluy Ray screen caps of Star Wars movies on my computer but I just started buying the movies on Blue Rays and currently only have Ep. 7 and Rogue One.
I will buy the Blue Rays of the OT later this year. I am not sure if I will the ones of the PT. I am not planing on doing any PT costumes.
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22 hours ago, Paggeldiwwer said:
The guy walking past the elevator and the guy reporting to Tarkin could really be the same person. They both have the orange tiles on the left and wearing the rankbar silly low. But I have no clue which rank that could be. There is nothing to find here - neither in the IOC-rank-guide nor in the rank-guide from Glyn Dillon. http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4002-official-ioc-rank-guide/&page=11&tab=comments#comment-120322
I am pretty sure that the guy reporting to Grand Moff Tarkin and the one in the eleveator scene are the same guy. It is the same uniform with the same actor wearing it.
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10 minutes ago, Wombat said:
But his pants and hat are black. When he first walks by, away from camera you see his pants are black jophers.
I think they were talking about the type of fabric and not the color. The CRL does state that the tunic is light gray and that the hat and the jodphurs are black.
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3 hours ago, Tonydragon said:
Is the plan to have seperate crls for the Navy Trooper going forward (ANH dress, ESB dress, jumpsuit variant and presumably at least one more from the new Solo movie)?
I know the feeling in general is against having multiple crls for each variant of a costume but the current NT crl is very confusing.
Well the navy trooper dress uniform ANH and the warrant officer ANH need to be a separate CRL due to the fact that their tunic is unique. I think we could put the Rogue One navy trooper in the same CRL because its tunic is similar enough.
There is no reason to change the CRL of flight suit variant of the navy trooper. The currant CRL covers ANH,E SB and ROTJ.
The navy trooper dress uniform ESB could be in the same CRL as the ROTJ version. Perhaps we could put those and the warrant officer ROTJ in the same CRL similar how I have done with this CRL proposal.
The old staff officer CRL could be changed into the Rogue One staff officer CRL.
The Rogue One ISB and the ANH ISB need two separate CRLs do to major differences in the tunic.
I think having many different CRLs is less confusing than having only a few CRLs with many different options in them.
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5 hours ago, Paggeldiwwer said:
What is that red stuff under their arms?
Tacblue thinks that the gauntlet cuffs have a red lining. I think he is right. The INs are standing with their arms crossed. If the cuffs of gauntlet flare out enough you could see the red lining. We do not see it on any other INs because they never stand in this way.
We have something similar happening with Yularen in the conference. In a couple of screen caps you can look up the sleeve of his tunic and see that he is wearing a white shirt. By the way, you can also see that ISB tunics do not have a modesty panel behind closure of the collar. Which makes sense because the russian summer officer tunics do not have it either.
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Yes, the collars could be a different shade of feld-grau and not brown. It would look similar to what we see in the movie.
I think I have figured out why the tunics closes right over left instead of left over right. If the tunics were rented stock tunics from Bermans like the NY police and Russian summer officer tunics the procuction team were not permitted to change them in a major way. So this is what they might have done do create hidden buttons. I think they used a seam oppener to take off the buttons and sewed them to the inside panel of the same side. If you do that you hide your buttons and can use the existing buttonholes. It is a pain in the neck to close and open the jacket but it is possible. I tried it out with my husbands jeans jacket by turning it inside out.
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I pulled the belt boxes back into the optional area. I thought that all IN DUs wore the belt boxes. Unfortunately, I completely forgot those that get killed in the detention block. Those did not have belt boxes. They kind of are the odd ones out anyway. All the IN DUs wore belt boxes except those. There is another strange thing about them. All armed IN DUs had a DH-17 that they carried in a holster on the right side. The ones that get killed wore their blasters on the left side but bulled them out with their right hand. During the shout out one suddenly has an E-11 instead of a DH-17.
I also can see that most IN DUs are armed. I also think that all wear gauntlets. The two IN DUs with the WO seem to be unarmed. I cannot tell if the one that pases the elevator has a weapon or if wears gauntlets. I also have that problem with the one stumbeling around during the rebel attack. The one that get hurt or killed in the explosion has gauntlets but I do not know if he is armed.
Warrant Officer / Staff Officer / Bridge Crew gloves
in CRL Updates
Posted · Edited by PArmstr
Addes more text.
Do you mean the officer gloves from ESB? They kind of look like plain German military leather gloves to me. The German military glove usually have a small closure strap on the inside of your wrist. The ESB officer gloves might have them or perhaps not it is impossible to sure. Not even the side view of General Viers glove shows it. It is possible that General Veers is wearing a different kind of glove. I think I can see some seams on the back of his hand. Admiral Ozzela and Captain Nedda did not have them on their gloves. Veers gloves also seem to be a little bit shorter than the ones that Nedda is wearing. Veers' glove seem to stop right at the wrist where as Needa's go perhaps a inch or two past his wrist.