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rattleandburn got a reaction from Tutanchseth in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
I have Light Blue and then Blue, Light Blue is very very turquoise. When I apply it, I squeeze some into a disposable cup and mix a few drops of blue into the light blue. The regular blue goes a looong way, so its like a couple drops of blue, and then if I want to do some harsh contour lines I add a couple drops more.
I definitely suggest though that you do get powders for contour and detail. I do an all over paint, and then slightly darken the paint and do my main contour (forehead, cheeks, beneath the jaw) but that is very stark, and will look like you've drawn lines on your face. Having powders to hilight, contour, and blend on top of those painted on stark contour lines makes for a much more natural look.
If you want that almost greenish tint that Rebels Thrawn has the NYX powders that were on my suggested list has a color that's suitable. Use that to blend out your contour and your color will be spot on (personally, I don't like to be green-tinted so I stay more turquoise blue)
For removal, get one of the removers that they sell on European Body Art, they're probably also on amazon, and are made specifically for Endura. I use Unveil, its the more gentle of the two. Its not like a normal makeup remover that you spritz on and things wipe right off, and it doesn't come with instructions, and I think thats where people struggle with removal. You spray your face, count slowly to ten, then massage it in to activate the makeup, before wiping. If you do that a couple times, you'll be un-blue very fast. for non sensitive areas, like your neck or hands, witch hazel is very inexpensive and removes it.
I use disposable makeup sponge wedges for the all-over application, and then some cheap makeup brushes for detailing. E.L.F. brand has pretty good brushes, for a very low price, and are available at places like CVS or Walmart.
EDIT: also, since Rebels Thrawn CRL specifies hair is supposed to be blue now, not black like Legends, imo the easiest way to achieve that if you have short hair already is hair wax. You just work it into your hair like a styling product, and it'll tint you dark blue. Its also great to ensure you don't see any scalp, you never really think about how much of your scalp you can see through your hair at your hairline until your face is blue and your scalp is skintone and its extremely obvious. I like this brand https://www.amazon.com/KooJoee-Professional-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076C1JJZR/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321089&sr=8-2&keywords=mofajang+hair+wax+blue
and BMK is also good, honestly I think they're the same item rebranded https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Hairstyle-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076DWTWB3/ref=sr_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321049&sr=8-9&keywords=hair%2Bwax%2Bblue&th=1
It shampoos right out with no lasting color (unless you are naturally white-blond, in which case it may stain)
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rattleandburn got a reaction from GDMorti in To be a grand admiral or not to be a grand admiral?
^What they said. There's evidence of other Grand Admirals, just not a lot of reference, but we have full of reference of Thrawn's clothes and that's all that's relevant. Plus if you be the first non-Thrawn new extended universe Grand Admiral, that would probably be its own CRL? Worth starting a thread to discuss when you start getting your costume together, whether Rebels style rank bars/belt would still apply, etc etc.
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rattleandburn got a reaction from GDMorti in Imperial Cadet changes
^Same, I actually already started last night. We were planning on just doing it for meme purposes at AwesomeCon and this thread was just sprung from the realization that the helmet is really not standard issue, I wasn't really planning on submitting it. Wouldn't be hard to write for though, it'd be 90% the other CRL with a few tiny tweaks.
@Hound thank you for giving us your perspective on it! much appreciated
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rattleandburn reacted to Exaldear in To be a grand admiral or not to be a grand admiral?
@rattleandburn makes uniforms and has done Thrawn, they might be able to help.
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rattleandburn reacted to GDMorti in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
For the record, regarding removal:
It won't come off easy, because if you go Endura it's made to stay on. Try not to panic, try not to scrub yourself raw, but it's gonna take some time to come off completely so make time in your plans post-troop for removal unless you're fine being a bit blue after. The advice above of "spray remover, wait, rub", is solid. Even if it doesn't feel like it's coming off quickly enough, it does take time! In your removal kit, make sure you include q-tips (for your ears and inside of your nose XD) and cotton pads for towards the end (paper towels at the beginning for the majority). Also invest in a good moisturiser and rub a good dollop in everywhere you painted blue. Twice later in the day even. Your skin will thank you!
I'm no expert but I was painted blue to accompany a Thrawn and Ar'alarni as Thrass a few months ago. Endura lasted the entire time (About four hours for me) and there was absolutely no transfer on any of the clothes I was wearing (and my shirt was a crew-cut collar jersey shirt so we had to paint down my neck and onto my chest a bit inside of the shirt, no transfer!)
Also, and this goes for anyone wanting to up their makeup game not just with Thrawn (although for Thrawn and Chiss it makes such a huge, huge difference!), learning to contour will raise your game from "oh hey a Thrawn!" to "oh my god, look at that Thrawn! Wow!" I promise you. <3 You don't even have to fully blue-up to practice. Applying and blending you can do just on your face as-is. It'll just look very weird. XD
EDIT: while you're practising makeup techniques, it doesn't hurt to get yourself used to having things touching around your eyes and wearing product around your eyes. Desensitising yourself to applying eyeliner or even just brushing clean q-tips around your eyelid area and waterline is going to really help ensure a solid coverage, right up to the eyeline. If the Endura is too intense to put that close to your eyes, work that area over with powders and blue makeups to get it as close as you can without rubbing alcohol paint in there. XD PLUS then you'll be able to apply that red eyeliner and it's another small detail.
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rattleandburn reacted to Exaldear in To be a grand admiral or not to be a grand admiral?
I'm doing the same for my GA, except he chose the Victory-I for tactical reasons.
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rattleandburn got a reaction from GDMorti in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
I have Light Blue and then Blue, Light Blue is very very turquoise. When I apply it, I squeeze some into a disposable cup and mix a few drops of blue into the light blue. The regular blue goes a looong way, so its like a couple drops of blue, and then if I want to do some harsh contour lines I add a couple drops more.
I definitely suggest though that you do get powders for contour and detail. I do an all over paint, and then slightly darken the paint and do my main contour (forehead, cheeks, beneath the jaw) but that is very stark, and will look like you've drawn lines on your face. Having powders to hilight, contour, and blend on top of those painted on stark contour lines makes for a much more natural look.
If you want that almost greenish tint that Rebels Thrawn has the NYX powders that were on my suggested list has a color that's suitable. Use that to blend out your contour and your color will be spot on (personally, I don't like to be green-tinted so I stay more turquoise blue)
For removal, get one of the removers that they sell on European Body Art, they're probably also on amazon, and are made specifically for Endura. I use Unveil, its the more gentle of the two. Its not like a normal makeup remover that you spritz on and things wipe right off, and it doesn't come with instructions, and I think thats where people struggle with removal. You spray your face, count slowly to ten, then massage it in to activate the makeup, before wiping. If you do that a couple times, you'll be un-blue very fast. for non sensitive areas, like your neck or hands, witch hazel is very inexpensive and removes it.
I use disposable makeup sponge wedges for the all-over application, and then some cheap makeup brushes for detailing. E.L.F. brand has pretty good brushes, for a very low price, and are available at places like CVS or Walmart.
EDIT: also, since Rebels Thrawn CRL specifies hair is supposed to be blue now, not black like Legends, imo the easiest way to achieve that if you have short hair already is hair wax. You just work it into your hair like a styling product, and it'll tint you dark blue. Its also great to ensure you don't see any scalp, you never really think about how much of your scalp you can see through your hair at your hairline until your face is blue and your scalp is skintone and its extremely obvious. I like this brand https://www.amazon.com/KooJoee-Professional-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076C1JJZR/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321089&sr=8-2&keywords=mofajang+hair+wax+blue
and BMK is also good, honestly I think they're the same item rebranded https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Hairstyle-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076DWTWB3/ref=sr_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321049&sr=8-9&keywords=hair%2Bwax%2Bblue&th=1
It shampoos right out with no lasting color (unless you are naturally white-blond, in which case it may stain)
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rattleandburn got a reaction from bluecrow in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
I have Light Blue and then Blue, Light Blue is very very turquoise. When I apply it, I squeeze some into a disposable cup and mix a few drops of blue into the light blue. The regular blue goes a looong way, so its like a couple drops of blue, and then if I want to do some harsh contour lines I add a couple drops more.
I definitely suggest though that you do get powders for contour and detail. I do an all over paint, and then slightly darken the paint and do my main contour (forehead, cheeks, beneath the jaw) but that is very stark, and will look like you've drawn lines on your face. Having powders to hilight, contour, and blend on top of those painted on stark contour lines makes for a much more natural look.
If you want that almost greenish tint that Rebels Thrawn has the NYX powders that were on my suggested list has a color that's suitable. Use that to blend out your contour and your color will be spot on (personally, I don't like to be green-tinted so I stay more turquoise blue)
For removal, get one of the removers that they sell on European Body Art, they're probably also on amazon, and are made specifically for Endura. I use Unveil, its the more gentle of the two. Its not like a normal makeup remover that you spritz on and things wipe right off, and it doesn't come with instructions, and I think thats where people struggle with removal. You spray your face, count slowly to ten, then massage it in to activate the makeup, before wiping. If you do that a couple times, you'll be un-blue very fast. for non sensitive areas, like your neck or hands, witch hazel is very inexpensive and removes it.
I use disposable makeup sponge wedges for the all-over application, and then some cheap makeup brushes for detailing. E.L.F. brand has pretty good brushes, for a very low price, and are available at places like CVS or Walmart.
EDIT: also, since Rebels Thrawn CRL specifies hair is supposed to be blue now, not black like Legends, imo the easiest way to achieve that if you have short hair already is hair wax. You just work it into your hair like a styling product, and it'll tint you dark blue. Its also great to ensure you don't see any scalp, you never really think about how much of your scalp you can see through your hair at your hairline until your face is blue and your scalp is skintone and its extremely obvious. I like this brand https://www.amazon.com/KooJoee-Professional-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076C1JJZR/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321089&sr=8-2&keywords=mofajang+hair+wax+blue
and BMK is also good, honestly I think they're the same item rebranded https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Hairstyle-Disposable-Temporary-Nightclub/dp/B076DWTWB3/ref=sr_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321049&sr=8-9&keywords=hair%2Bwax%2Bblue&th=1
It shampoos right out with no lasting color (unless you are naturally white-blond, in which case it may stain)
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rattleandburn got a reaction from DarthFunk83 in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
^Final Seal works better on Aquacolor if you seal each layer separately and then once you're done with contour/detail rather than just at the end, should fix that mixed success problem
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rattleandburn reacted to Tentayena in Thrawn Paint Recommendations
I have to second the Endura liquid recommendation!!
I used to use ben nye as my go to body paint, but even after sealing, I would just be so afraid it would rub off on my costume or other things. Never had that worry with endura, and it doesn't upset my skin as much either. It does take a bit more time to apply, but I do think it goes on more cleanly in the end and looks better overall.
I also use a bit of darker endura (mixing a small bit of dark blue in with my base color) and the nyx eye shadow for contour. This is VERY important, since painting your face all one color will make you look very flat if you don't contour at least a bit. Also you can make yourself have cheekbones for days, which I enjoy so much.
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Tentayena in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
Thrawn is definitely perfect
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Tentayena in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
How dare you even suggest it, I'm demoting you back to Ensign
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rattleandburn reacted to buckrogersbarker in Question about Vanto from the Thrawn Book
Comics are reviewed by Lucasfilm licensing. They do turn down creative choices from time to time. If it passed through, it is a thing
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rattleandburn got a reaction from buckrogersbarker in Question about Vanto from the Thrawn Book
What Bob said^
And/or, pick a specific Vanto and make him to push that one in particular. He's going to be at least two more ranks by the end of the series run as well, and maybe (hopefully?) he'll get a CEDF uniform if they elaborate on that epilogue
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rattleandburn reacted to GDMorti in Commander Hask CRL placeholder
Evening everyone!
As the build thread for this particular costume here on the IOC is wrapping up, I think it's time we resurrect the CRL discussion. I've been Kris' armourer over on his UKG WIP thread and have done a ridiculous level of research into the costume to make sure I could give informed and adequate advice and assistance. That in mind, I'd like to make the following proposal on the CRL's text.
This text takes into account several things:
- Kris' original CRL text proposed in the beginning of this thread.
- A large amount of research undertaken by myself, of which I am happy to provide details and references of should any part of the text need proving, elaborating upon, or rewording. I've made several suggestions towards reasonable (imo) Level 2/3 standards but accept that things are moved around by LMO's as part of their formatting and overseeing of the CRL process.
- The fact that I strongly and firmly believe that the Battlefront 2 First Order uniform should be a sole, singular CRL.
This would make the costume available to those who wish to make a generic, to those who wish to portray male or female BF2 FO officers, and to those specifically wanting to portray Hask. It is additionally worth noting that Battlefront 2 (the game) could at any point start to offer players the ability to customise their multiplayer "generic" FO officer further. A "generic" male body type may be made available. It's possible that they fully remodel another male body however my money is on them using Hask's, as it already exists. This would mean that both "male" and "female" versions of the uniform would exist. Yes the female model used as the generic multiplayer at present has differences to Hask, however there are two differences, and they are extremely minor. One of them is a fitting issue, regarding the location of the princess seams on the front of the tunic (you see the same differences between male and female First Order officers in TLJ). It's already come up in this thread previously, that Hask himself could easily be an appearance configuration for this CRL, which would then immediately open the costume up to all men, women, -and- those who particularly want to portray Hask.
Being as this has been handed over several times in this thread as "an LMO decision" I'd like to invite our LMO Liason to weigh in! @Hux
Without further ado, the text (I'm sorry it's mostly lumped to the left, I can't figure out how to copy it in and remove that without losing all my formatting!):
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Battlefront 2 - First Order Uniform
Code Cylinders, First Order
For 501st approval:
Four (4) code cylinders, two on each side of the tunic
Cylinders are smooth tubes, with a lip at the top and an indented bottom
Cylinders are 85-90mm (approx 3.5 inches) long
There is a metal clip attached to the top, extending approx one third of the way down the cylinder
Both cylinders and clips are silver in color
For level two certification (if applicable):
Real (with modifications) or Replica Russian Dosimeters are used
For level three certification (if applicable):
Dosimeter clips are designed and bent in a manner that matches in-game references
Dosimeter tubes are of adequate thickness, as per in-game references
Officer Boots, First Order, Black
For 501st approval:
Knee-high, black, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material, with moderate to high-gloss shine
Rubber rain boots or wellington boots are not acceptable
PVC or synthetic material is allowed as long as it gives the appearance of leather
There are no stretch panels, buckles, snap tabs, or decoration
Boot seams must closely match screen-used boots
Boots have conservative or no heels at all. Flat soles are most accurate
If zippers are present, they appear on the inner part of the boot shaft only
The toe of the boot is rounded, not in a square, rounded, or pointed style
The top of the boots are flat style, not Spanish, Cowboy, or Superhero
For level two certification (if applicable):
Boots have a zipper on the inner shaft
Soles are flat, similar to FO TK and TI soles
Seams and design must match those of in-game boots
Belt, First Order
For 501st approval:
Belt strap is constructed from a plain, black, non-textured leather or a leather-like material
A buckle approximately 4.5inches x 2inches is acceptable
The belt strap is the same width/height as the buckle
Belt strap length must fit snugly over the natural waist of the wearer
There are no loops on the belt strap
The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal-looking material
Buckle is free of decoration, greeblies or insignia
Buckle is rectangular, with sharp-angled edges
For level two certification (if applicable):
Belt is made of leather
Buckle is made of a brushed metal such as aluminium
There are no sizing holes
Buckle has a slight horizontal curve, matching the curve of the belt strap when worn
Gloves, First Order, Black
For 501st approval:
Gloves are constructed of a non-textured, black leather or leather-like material
Enclosed fingers
Gloves are gauntlet length, fitted, and worn underneath the sleeves
No buckles, straps, ect
Gloves are plain on the back of the palm with no visible stitching or details
For level two certification (if applicable):
Gloves are leather
Rank Insignia, First Order
For 501st approval:
Worn on the left sleeve only, positioned just above the cuff seam line
Rank Insignia consists of either:
- A single plain black band with two thin white bands on the outer edges, and is fully attached to the sleeve
- Two plain black bands bisected by a straight seam, with white bands on the top edge of the upper band, and the bottom edge of the lower band. Rank insignia is fully attached to the sleeve
The thin white bands can be white piping or white embroidery
Insignia is invisibly stitched down to the sleeve in full, or adhered securely using iron-on patch adhesive. The bar should not appear loose
For level two certification (if applicable):
The top and bottom white bands on the rank insignia are machine embroidered
The seam for the rank band matches exactly with the seam of the sleeve
First Order Officer Hat
For 501st approval:
The hat's brim is a black leather, or leather-like material protruding from the front bottom of the dome. It is slightly curved in shape and does not obscure the wearer's eyes
The dome fits snugly on the head and cocks slightly back like a baseball cap
It is fitted to the head and does not cover the ears
There is a tall flap which runs around the back of the hat, snugly fitting around the dome at the back and at both sides
The flap piece is not higher than the dome of the hat, and does not overly flex outward It is effectively vertical in respect to the rest of the hat, and when viewed from the side, it's front edges are tilted slightly back at an angle
The First Order emblem is centered in the front of the hat's dome. It is black and white/silver
The hat is made of a sturdy, grey suiting fabric exactly matching the pants and tunic, with suitable interfacing or buckram as to give it the correct shape and stiffness
The dome has a subtly curved seam separating the front panel from rest of the hat, with a similar seam on the back section of the dome, with one vertical seam running down the dome's back
For level two certification (if applicable):
First Order insignia is centered in the front of the hat's dome. It is approx 1 1/2" wide & 1 3/4" tall
Hat features topstitching on either side of seams on the side and back panels of the hat as well as on the panels at the seam where they meet the dome, but not upon the dome itself. The front dome features top-stitching only at the lower edge where it meets the brim
The hat’s brim is leather. Its finish matches that seen in reference images
Tunic, First Order Officer
For 501st approval:
Fabric is a medium weight, smooth, grey suiting material exactly matching the pants
Tunic is fitted
The front closure may use wide hook and eye closures
Sleeves are long, and without decoration, folded cuffs or buttons. There are cuff seam lines on both lower sleeves below the rank band and a visible seam line separates the sleeve from the straight cuff portion, which is approximately 4.5 - 5.5”
First Order Commander rank insignia is fully sewn down on the left arm only
The collar is snugly fitting, classic-style, and has a visible closure panel across the front of the neck. Closure panel may attach to the side of the neck by Velcro, hook and eye, or any closure that does not interfere with the look of the collar
There are princess seams on the front and the back, the rear seams running from shoulder blades to bottom hem
The chest princess seams turn at a sharp 90-degree angle at the bottom of the code cylinder panels, running back toward the side seam and finishing 3-4” below the armpit; The 90-degree angle of this seam is the closest point to the opening at the front of the tunic, and is around 2-2.5” from the center opening
There are two code-cylinder loops on either side of the chest and each loop is around 65mm (2.5 inches) long. The code cylinder loops can either:
- Fit within the chest seams described above, as per in-game reference. (Suggested for male officers.)
- Fit outside of the chest seams described above, as per in-game reference. (Suggested for female officers.)
There are four seams on the front of the tunic below the belt. Two either side of the belt buckle
There is no no vertical seam down the center of the back
The tunic does not have pockets
There is a single arm seam, beginning at the rear princess seam on the back, and finishing at the wrist. The seam runs through the cuff
The tunic does not feature epaulettes, nor a First Order insignia patch
There is a deep vent at the rear of the tunic
Tunic may have a waist seam, hidden at all times beneath the belt when worn. This waist seam will allow for much easier placement of accurate front seams below the belt, and an accurate vent at the rear of the tunic below the belt.
For level two certification (if applicable):
Tunic has a suitable amount of gathered material at the rear (lower back, belt level) and sleeves to create the same visual appearance as in-game references Jodphur Trousers, First Order Officer
For 501st approval:
Fabric is a medium weight grey suiting material exactly matching the tunic
Flared riding breeches have subtle, semi-stiff flares in the hip/thigh area, below the tunic and above the knee
Pockets and waist belts are acceptable, although are not visible with the tunic on
Stirrups may be attached to the leg bottoms to keep material tightly tucked into the boots
There is a fold on the legs creased from back to front, directly below the jodphur flares, tucking tightly into the boots, over the knees
For level two certification (if applicable):
Trousers have a suitable amount of gathered material at the thigh (front and rear) to create the same visual appearance as in-game references Holster
Black in color and constructed from leather or leather like material
The holster is made from same material as the belt
Holster is constructed from a black leather/leather like material which hangs beneath the belt. There are no visible attachments to the rear of the belt, however a small silver buckle may be used to attach the holster beneath the main rectangular belt buckle at the front
There are no visible snaps, loops or clasps attaching the holster to the belt, outside of the silver attachment mentioned above
The holster begins low enough to extend several inches past the hem of the tunic
Holster is worn on the right-hand side of the belt
For level two certification (if applicable):
Holster is made of black leather
Holster is made from the same black leather as the belt
The silver clip behind and below the belt buckle must be present
Blaster
Accurate RK-3 blaster pistol, matching reference images from Battlefront 2
If 3D printed, concerted efforts are made to remove all visible 3D printer ridges and striations
For level two certification (if applicable):
Blaster has been appropriately and accurately weathered to match Hask’s in-game blaster model
Blaster has been painted and weathered so as to give the appearance of being made of metal. Alternatively, blaster is made of metal and has been suitably painted and weathered
Commander Hask Appearance/Configuration:
For 501st approval:
Hair is grey, combed back at the sides and top. Hair is neatly cut short in a military style
Dark coloured/grey stubble is present however facial hair should not be of beard length
A long, jagged scar runs from the center of the chin, up the left side of the face, narrowly missing the left corner of the mouth, finishing with puckered scar tissue on the cheek
For level two certification (if applicable):
Hair is visibly greying.(remove if grey hair is basic level) Stubble also appears to be naturally greying, “salt and pepper” style Eyebrows are of similar colour and shape to in-game references Suitable stage makeup techniques and tools are utilized to create a believable facial scar which matches in-game references -
rattleandburn reacted to KaiserNash in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
Appreciate it! For some reason the forum wasn't allowing me to access it. Ill check my PMs
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rattleandburn got a reaction from KaiserNash in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
its just a word doc, so it should work for everybody. I'll copy-paste and PM you the contents
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rattleandburn reacted to Mynock in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
There is a type for blue skin lol sign me up
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rattleandburn reacted to Mitthrawnuruodo in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
These are perfect! Well done!
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Wompet in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
Myself and @tentayena wore our IOC costumes this past weekend at AwesomeCon DC.
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Vanto in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
Thanks for contributing to our meme captions, lol. This was a lot of fun to go do
Bonus art shenanigans:
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Vanto in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
How dare you even suggest it, I'm demoting you back to Ensign
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rattleandburn got a reaction from Vanto in Thrawn and Eli at the art museum...
Myself and @tentayena wore our IOC costumes this past weekend at AwesomeCon DC.