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MichaelK

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Posts posted by MichaelK

  1. DO NOT order the series 01-901 yellow push buttons, while they were once accurate, some years ago they changed them to opaque yellow instead of transparent amber.

     

    On 12/24/2016 at 10:49 AM, MichaelK said:

    As I mentioned earlier, the yellow/amber is no longer correct. The blue and red are available from Newark ($2.22 ea.) (Blue) (Red), Mouser ($2.25 ea.) (Blue) (Red), Allied ($2.13 ea.) (Blue) (Red), and Sager (Blue) ($2.11) (Red) ($1.01). For reference, Octopart has a full list of suppliers with a few more, (Blue) (Red)

     

    On 12/24/2016 at 11:10 AM, DaddySolo said:

    Yes, the yellow is no longer correct (I found that out the hard way) but after pouring through the data sheet, I managed to track down the correct yellow/amber with correct translucency-    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EAO/01-9824/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugJQkOXgo8J7Hu02QLfqPp8Ji4joKUbjIM%3d

     

    I'm having a hard time uploading pics ATM, but they are the correct size/color.(think Chief Bast)

     

     

    The last page of this thread has further discussion on the amber, and series 31 push buttons:

     

  2. Thanks everyone! Thinking of doing a full length tutorial when I do my next (black) hat now, getting the details clear will be tricky though.

     

    2 hours ago, Toran said:

    Awesome thread m8!
    You've been doing exactly what I've been doing over here, in trying to figure things out with the hats.

    Thing is, I think we both have the same small problem!
    The frontal view of you hats, is, just like mine, too straight.
    It's supposed to be slightly conical, as in, the base of the hat should always be larger than the top. I'd hope to hear some more thoughts on this?

    3ce3aa0b9b67a05d92dda85d0f23d575.jpg

     

    23 minutes ago, LtGarin said:

    Great work Michael. And I'm sure when it's worn its conical shape is more apparent. Even my hat when not worn can appear cylindrical. :salute:

     

    I had this pics of it worn, bud didn't initially post them due to their lack of quality. LtGarin is correct, once warn the seams get 'stretched'/'pressed' and the hat takes the appropriate conical shape.

    32520068875_f2b5bf832d_b.jpg

     

    32520070875_3ebb3a824a_b.jpg

  3. I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.

     

     

     

    Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html

     

    This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html

     

    After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.

     

    In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

    32132860080_2ca47c2709_b.jpg

     

    Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

    32133078480_aa8a3a74e9_b.jpg

     

    32511959865_59e3e3ffc5_b.jpg

     

    Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

    32359661172_0b1a530fa3_b.jpg

     

    Instead of steps 12 & 13:

     

    Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

    31668539964_11669205ee_b.jpg

     

    Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

    32471091086_a8e7c0803b_b.jpg

     

    Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

    32132908590_7583c19952_b.jpg

     

    31668427844_99f65027c1_b.jpg

     

    Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

    31668436384_ab64e9a051_b.jpg

     

    The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

    31668459184_89c729c6b6_b.jpg

     

    32471177016_66269ed5fc_b.jpg

     

    32359641462_914357031e_b.jpg

    (pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them :?)

     

    Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. :-)

     

    Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

  4. On 1/11/2017 at 9:45 PM, MichaelK said:

    Only nitpick I have with the book is that it calls the line officer tunics gray. :shock:

    Well, having now read Tarkin, I'm going to have to take that back and say that gray is right for the time period Catalyst covers.

  5. Looks good, few things I noticed in your new version of the tunic requirements:

     

    20 hours ago, Walker said:
    •  Tunic is constructed with no top-stitching (stitches visible on the exterior surface of fabric)

    For level three certification (if applicable):

    • There is no noticeable top-stitching visible anywhere.

    Is this a standard or L3 requirement?

    20 hours ago, Walker said:
    •  The standing collar has square corners and is about 1.25" (31.8 mm) tall.

    I know this is what the other CRL's say, but isn't the standard 2" now?

  6. 2 hours ago, lantern2745 said:

    Regarding it being Rebels style versus OT, I'm stuck on the fact that hers is a two row bar.  I haven't been to the hardware store in a while, but I can't remember seeing aluminium stock in the size one would need to make it one solid bar.

    Could we let level one slide as two separate bars with the top and bottom corners radius-ed?  For now at least, I'm writing it like that.

    I'll look at what they're doing for the Thrawn CRL too, the as dosimeters, belt buckle and rank bar should all be very similar between the two.

    10 minutes ago, nocternus said:

    No offense but CRL should not be based on what the local hardware store carries there are other options 

     

    There may be other sites, but Online Metals will also cut custom sizes of 1/8", and 1/16" for only $1.71, and $0.86 respectively, plus $7 shipping, which is probably much less then the tiles themselves. Just select "Create a Custom Size", based on Walker's drawing the in GA CRL thread, the dimensions should be 2.25" x 4.75"

     

    Edit: 1/4" is also available, but I think it would be awfully heavy to use (it comes out to $2.14)

  7. I also got it over Christmas, found it a nice read. It does an excellent job providing pack story for all the main characters, and politics of Rogue One. Really liked all the pseudo science worked into Galen's character. Only nitpick I have with the book is that it calls the line officer tunics gray. :shock:

     

    Planning to read Tarkin next, and may have to give the novelization a try.

  8. On 12/31/2016 at 11:19 PM, MichaelK said:

    Here are all the ones that appeared in the Rogue one VD:

     

    Dir. Krennic

    Early: 6 Red, single row (same as ANH General, refereed to as commander in Catalyst)

    Late: 6 Red above 6 Blue, double row (ESB Admiral)

     

    Galen Erso

    4 Amber, 1 Red, single row

     

    Line Officers

    General:

    6 Red, single row (Sotorus Ramda)

    6 Amber, single row (Hurst Romodi)

     

    Lieutenant:

    2 Red, 1 Blue, Single row (Criden Valdas, Mytus Adema)

     

    Lieutenant, Junior Grade:

    2 Blue, Single row (Tobix Chasser)

     

    Staff Officers

    Lieutenant:

    3 Blue, single row (Milton Putna)

     

    ISB

    Inspector General:

    3 Red, 1 Blue, Single row (Bozeden Jeems)

     

    And Pablo Hidalgo's comforting note: "Imperial Insignia [...] Sector-specific design schema creates a hodgepodge of non-uniform markings."

    A few more I missed:

     

    Line Officers

    Captain:

    3 Blue, 2 Red, single row (Shaef Corssin, of Devastator)

     

    Cloaked on Eadu, probably staff:

    2 Blue, 1 Red, single row

     

    3 Red, 1 Blue, single row - Likely Krennic's Aid, Captain Pterro, possibly ISB Inspector Genneral Bozeden Jeems

  9. 2 hours ago, Wombat said:

    Good evening to the stylish leaders of the imperial fleet,  How would one of us summit a detail of movie cannon(all of them) costume that seems to be overlooked in the CRL?  I'm not sure it matters but I haven't seen it in any of our uniforms, including my own. 

    Let us know here with all the details and pictures you have of it, most of the folks in the Detachment that have the authority to change CRLs frequent current topics. I'm also rather curious to see what you've found.

  10. Here are all the ones that appeared in the Rogue one VD:

     

    Dir. Krennic

    Early: 6 Red, single row (same as ANH General, refereed to as commander in Catalyst)

    Late: 6 Red above 6 Blue, double row (ESB Admiral)

     

    Galen Erso

    4 Amber, 1 Red, single row

     

    Line Officers

    General:

    6 Red, single row (Sotorus Ramda)

    6 Amber, single row (Hurst Romodi)

     

    Lieutenant:

    2 Red, 1 Blue, Single row (Criden Valdas, Mytus Adema)

     

    Lieutenant, Junior Grade:

    2 Blue, Single row (Tobix Chasser)

     

    Staff Officers

    Lieutenant:

    3 Blue, single row (Milton Putna)

     

    ISB

    Inspector General:

    3 Red, 1 Blue, Single row (Bozeden Jeems)

     

    And Pablo Hidalgo's comforting note: "Imperial Insignia [...] Sector-specific design schema creates a hodgepodge of non-uniform markings."

  11. 10 hours ago, kman said:

    ^^ All of those are on the left? (I think more editing is in store)

     

    Are the accurate 01-901 buttons that are closest available online somewhere, in accurate colors?

    :oops: Fixed.

     

    As I mentioned earlier, the yellow/amber is no longer correct. The blue and red are available from Newark ($2.22 ea.) (Blue) (Red), Mouser ($2.25 ea.) (Blue) (Red), Allied ($2.13 ea.) (Blue) (Red), and Sager (Blue) ($2.11) (Red) ($1.01). For reference, Octopart has a full list of suppliers with a few more, (Blue) (Red)

  12. 4 hours ago, Walker said:

     

     

     

    That would be Awesome Ross & Michael!

     

    I will admit that 3D Printing is a bit out of my depth - so no idea about one piece versus smaller pieces 

     

    Here are two other photos of Thrawn with his Pistol drawn hopefully help you with working out size, detail, etc...

     

    31022518863_2e7cc71f5d.jpg31715952481_5151422097.jpg

     

    These are the smaller versions of the photos, I do have the originals which are 2200x3000 and 4000x6000 (bit big for forum posting) but PM me if they would help.

    Those are big enough, but if you have a larger one of the blaster pic, I would like that.

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