PilgrimHost

Greetings IOC, 
 
  I thought I'd make a quick mention for those who might be interested.  
  I've been trying to get hold of a size medium olive officer hat from Anovos for some time.  I have a large that works, but it's a bit too big if I'm being very honest.  Having tried on a Garrison mate's medium, I found it snug but usable, so I've been trying to track one down for quite a few years, including placing another order when Anovos said they were "in stock".  You can imagine how that went... 
  Anyway, I recently was sent an email from a company called Denuo Novo that seems to be partnering with Neca through Rubies.  I suspect this is what Anovos became, though I don't know if the same people are involved.  The logo looks similar, the sizing charts and product descriptions are the same, so I'm assuming it's at least somewhat related.  
  They advertised ID hats, so I took a gamble and ordered a medium in olive grey.  It arrived today and thought I'd give my impressions in case anyone else is in the same boat I was. 
  Fabric appears to be very similar, possibly the same. The shade however, while appearing to be of the same "degree" of color, seems to be a couple shades darker than the original Anovos.  Under some lighting the difference appears negligible, but under others it seems quite noticeable.  The top of the hat has what feels like a layer of interfacing in it, which is absent on the Anovos. The brim is stiffer than the Anovos. The greeblie it comes with is of the type Krennic had on his hat, rather than the normal disk type.   The awful leather sweatband from the Anovos is gone and replaced with a thin, soft grosgrain sweatband. 
  Here's a few pictures to illustrate the color difference.  Anovos has the notched disk, Denuo Novo has the R1 style. Also worth noting is that the Anovos has been trooped in for a few years, and I may have dry-cleaned it back upon its arrival. I'm hoping a trip to the dry cleaners will bring the color of the new one close enough to the Anovos that it will be usable, otherwise I'm stuck with the impossible task of tracking down an old Anovos medium. 
  Hope this may have  been helpful to someone. 

I’ve been meaning to do one of these threads for a while now, and finally had a good excuse to make a new rank bar, so here goes.
Push button rank bars are the ideal.  Screen-accurate, and just look way better than the cheap acrylic chip styles.  And best of all, they can be hand made at home very inexpensively and with just a few basic tools!  There are a LOT of photos here, detailing every step, but it’s a pretty straightforward process, as a whole.
 
There are also a LOT of steps here but don't be scared off... it's just because I broke each step to the nth degree, and a lot of steps are just double, triple, quadruple-checking measurement and alignment.  This is all really simple stuff that nearly anyone should be able to do, and nothing more exotic than a hacksaw, sandpaper and an exacto knife (or something similar, even) is really required (plus glue, of course).  And the hacksaw is probably optional, if you get the shop to do the first cut.  Oh, and a ruler, of course.
 
HERE'S HOW:
 
Note: E6000 is the glue of choice.  Know it, love it, use it.  It takes 24 hours to cure, and I don’t recommend shorting that at ALL.  BUT:  I recommend starting the gluing either in the morning, so you can do some final manipulation in the evening, or in the evening, so you can do that final manipulation in the morning.  (I usually just glue at night so I can tweak it in the morning, then let it finish curing through the day, and put it all together the next evening.)
 
Step one: The Buttons
 
Buy the appropriate push buttons for your costume.  
 

 
TIP: See this thread for details on how and where they can be purchased:
 
Step two: The Bar
 
Buy a piece of aluminum stock.  I prefer the 1/8” stuff, some people like the thinner 1/16” stuff.  I just think the thinner stuff bends far too easily.  You can get a long piece at Home Depot, Lowe’s, ACE, or really almost any hardware store.  You can get 4’ of the stuff for around $10.  That's quite a few rank bars, even if they're all the largest 6" size.  So make some for a friend, or make yourself a variety so you can choose ranks like you pick socks for the day, LOL
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801927/204274000
 

 
Step three: Determine Size Needed
 
Figure out how long it needs to be, based on how many buttons you’ll be using, and how far apart they are.  Add the same spacing on each end, and I usually add a millimeter or two of extra length, because it’s easier to sand a little more off than to add more, if anything happens during the finishing process.  Especially if the end cut is not perfect.  Rogue One buttons, as pictured below, should be 3mm apart.  The smaller OT buttons should be about 1/4" (~6mm) between them.  See the Imperial Rank Bar databank page for details.  (Note: That page needs updating with Rogue One/Solo info... it's being worked on)  I'm using millimeters in this guide... I find them easier to work with for measuring very small distances like this, and most rulers have both measurements anyway.
 
I do this by literally just setting the buttons on the bar, starting from the end, and measuring out along a ruler.  Very simple.  Mark a line somewhere where you need to cut.
 

 
Step four: Cut the Aluminum
 
To cut the aluminum, I just use a hacksaw in a miter box.  Aluminum is really soft and easy to cut, but if you don’t have a hacksaw, most hardware stores will do at least one cut on for you, so plan ahead and bring your measurements.  (Be sure to pad the numbers because they’re not usually super precise about their cuts!)
 

 
Step five: Rough sand the bar
 
Sand the ends down to the exact size you want, within about a millimeter.  I use my bench grinder for this, but it can be done by hand with just some sandpaper if you don’t have one.  Rough sandpaper is fine at this stage (100-200 grit, whatever), because you’ll be cleaning it up with finer sandpaper in the next step.
 

 
Step six: Fine finishing of the bar
 
Next we clean it up, get rid of any visible scratches (common with plain bar stock from big box stores, since aluminum is soft and it gets beat up a lot), and generally make it nice.  For this I use a high grit sandpaper, like 500 grit, and use one that’s rated for wet sanding, because it gives a much better final product very easily.  You want a nice perfectly flat surface for this… I use the counter of the bathroom or kitchen sink, because it’s an easy place to do it.  The aluminum powder sanded off can then be washed away quickly and easily, and the counter tends to be a perfectly flat surface.  (perfect another for this, anyway… as long as you’re not talking aerospace parts, it’s fine)  Just put a little dribble of water on the sandpaper and scrub back and forth until it’s clean and smooth.  Clean up the ends, too, while you’re at it.  I don’t spend much time on the back, since it’s never seen, but sometimes I’ll hit it a little if I feel inclined.
 

 
Some like to use a straight edge to sand along so the lines are perfectly horizontal, but it the final finish is smooth enough, that’s not something I care about.  Here’s the final bar, for this badge:
 

 
Step seven: Measure
 
I’m a big fan of measuring, measuring, measuring, at multiple times throughout this process, because you really want this as perfect as possible.  Shortcut that if you want, but don’t blame me if your badges are less than perfect. So I lay out the buttons, again, on the final bar, and double check everything lays the way I want, including the right amount sticking out on the sides.
 

 
Step eight: Button disassembly
 
Now we’re onto the buttons themselves.  Remove the white inserts (just gently squeeze the legs and they should come right out).
 

 
Step nine: Button trimming
 
Next cut off those little legs.  You can use any number of tools for this.  I’ve used hot knives, utility / box knives Exacto knives, diagonal snips… currently my favorite method is the cutoff wheel on my Dremel:
 

 

 
Step ten: Button cleanup
 
Then I clean up the inside with the Exacto knife.  
 

 
Cleaning up a lot doesn’t matter a whole lot, since its on the back and inside, but I’m a perfectionist that way.  It does need to be perfectly cut away, though, so they lay perfectly flat.  Extra plastic from the pins in the middle that make it rock back and forth is NOT what you want.  Be careful not to take too much away… the covers clip in the middle indent, so that needs to be there, and you don’t want a big gap in the middle that lets the glue seep out, either.  At the end, I take a couple of quick swipes on that wet sandpaper again… just a couple, though.  You don’t want to remove much material here.
 

 
Step eleven: More measuring
 
Lay the inserts out on the bar again, and gently set the button covers on them so you can space them out and measure the distance again.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THE BUTTON COVERS ONTO THE INSERTS FROM HERE UNTIL THE VERY END!!!  Without the legs, those inserts are a REAL b#$%* to remove.
 
Step twelve: Reference tape
 
Once everything is, again, laid out perfectly, use a strip of painters tape to carefully slide under the button covers (remember, they’re not pressed on, so they’re held a millimeter or two above the surface of the bar), flush against the inserts.  This is going to be your alignment guide to make sure the inserts are perfectly positioned at the right height, so they’re nice and centered on the bar. (top to bottom)
 

 
Step thirteen: Double-check the line
 
Sanity check your tape alignment to make sure it’s nice and straight… it’s funny (not funny) how obvious a millimeter off looks, once everything is put together.  The slant is a lot more obvious than you’d think.  I tweaked the line just slightly after I took this photo, FWIW, since the left edge looks a hair lower than the right.
 

 
Step fourteen: Space out the buttons
 
Lay out the buttons covers out on their face AGAIN (upside down), on either a piece of paper, paper towel, or some other protective surface you don’t want glue on your nice dining room table, or even your workbench), carefully measured out, and with the inserts lightly placed inside.  (REMINDER: BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THEM INTO THE COVERS!)
 

 
Step fifteen: Use tape to hold the button insert underside
 
Now the interesting part begins.  Tape a piece of painters tape (I like 1” for this)and gently lay it onto the undersides of the inserts.  You should be able to lift the inserts out and have them stay in the exact position they were in when you flip it over.  Measure them all AGAIN and confirm everything is as straight as it should be.
 

 
Step sixteen: Use tape to hold the button insert from the top
 
Take ANOTHER piece of painters tape and lay it over the TOP of those inserts.  Again, this should lock them into place and hold them nice and firmly.  Give yourself a good extra inch or so on either side, because later you’ll want to wrap the ends around the bar to hold things in place.
 

 
Step seventeen: Release the button insert underside
 
Flip it over and remove the tape from the bottom, and you have all the covers nice and in place, ready for gluing.
 

 
Step eighteen: Fill the inserts with Glue
 
And now we glue.  Use E6000 or similar slow cure, self-leveling glue.  Fill each insert entirely, but be careful not to OVER-fill them.
 

 
Step nineteen: Top off the glue levels
 
Double check they’re completely filled, and add a little more if any corners aren’t fully filled, etc.
 

 
Step twenty: Apply the bar
 
Now remember that bar stock with the tape along the edge?  Put that tape line right up against the buttons covers filled with glue.  You should feel it easily when the tape line touches the inserts.
 

 
Step twenty-one: Flip the inserts and bar
 
Flip it over so the glue will go down and glue the inserts onto the bar.  Double-check your alignment against that alignment tape, now that you can see it easier.  You should see pretty clearly that they’re all neatly pressed against the tape reference line, and you’ll know they’re just where they should be as a result.
 

 
Step twenty-two: Remove the alignment tape and package it up for the night
 
At this point, once I’m sure everything is where I want it, I fold the ends of the top painters tape under the bar, to hold everything exactly in place.  Remove the alignment tape and wrap it round the middle, like a belt holding it all together.
 

 
Step twenty-three: Walk away...
 
Leave it all out to cure overnight.  You’ll want probably 10-14 hours of cure time before the next step.
 

 
Step twenty-four: Double-check alignment and measurements
 
After about 10-14 hours have passed, the glue will be about perfect for the next step.  Too long and it’s hard to move things around, if small adjustments are needed.  Too short a time, and things can just move out of place again.  10-14 hours is the perfect level of tacky but no longer slippery.
 
Carefully remove all the tape, and gently place the button covers on the inserts again, so you can truly measure the final positions.  (don’t lock them on, remember!)  While you CAN measure just the inserts, I find the nice sharp edges of the button covers area easier to measure, and the sharp lines make it more clear if anything is off.
 

 
Step twenty-five: More measuring checks
 
Remove the button covers and AGAIN make sure everything is aligned perfectly, and the measurements between each are perfectly consistent.  Again, a half millimeter will be visibly obvious once it’s all done, so this is your last chance to fix things.  If anything is off, you should be able to carefully push the inserts around as needed.  The glue will allow movements without screwing anything up, at this stage.  Be sure to use a straightedge to make sure everything is *perfectly* straight.
 

 
Step twenty-six: Glue cleanup
 
If any glue seeped out from under the inserts, now is the perfect time to clean it up.  The glue is still soft enough to be easy to remove with an exacto knife, and not cured hard yet, but not so soft that it just squishes around under the blade.  Be careful not to move anything around while you do this, but it should be fairly set in place, as long as you work gently.  Cutting right along the edge of the inserts will scratch the bar, but not in a visible area, since the button covers will go over this area.
 

 
Step twenty-seven: Walk away again...
 
Now leave it somewhere safe and walk away for another 10-14 hours.  The glue will cure more fully during this time, but it’s no longer so slippery that it’s likely to move out of place on it’s own.
 
Step twenty-eight: Attach the button covers
 
After a full 24 hours from the initial gluing has passed, all your work pays off.  Visually look it over one last time, measure AGAIN if you want, and then you can proceed to snap the button covers fully onto the inserts, and enjoy your beautiful new rank bar.
 

 
Step twenty-nine: Apply the backing
 
The timing of the very last step is up to you.  The glue SHOULD be pretty set at this point, but I still like to be careful (there’s a lot of glue in an enclosed space, in there).  E6000 fully cures in 72 hours, so that’s my preferred time to proceed, but it really depends on how much of a hurry you’re in.  I’ve done the last step sooner and been fine, just try to be gentle with the buttons a bit longer, and don’t leave them anywhere where anything is pressing on them.
 
But the last step is to attach whatever attachment method you’re using to the back.  I use simple self-adhesive magnet bars from Amazon (see the DIY push button source thread linked at the top of this post).  Just peel off the sticker backing and stick on the back of the rank bar, and you’re done.  (I put something moderately heavy on top for a couple minutes to really stick the sucker on there)  Some prefer push pins, which would need to be epoxied into place, but that’s all up to the end user)
 

 
Step thirty: There is no step thirty
 
Et fini. You're done.   Stick on your costume and rock that rank!
 

 
Happy Rank Bar making!
 

Hello Fellow Officers!!
 
Some of you may know, but many likely do not, but I just got married this summer. And, as both of us were huge Star Wars fans, we had... lets say, a themed wedding. It was really great. I dressed up as my Grand Admiral, my best man and all my groomsmen were Officers. Even the bridesmaids wore rank bars, and Krennic (who is also our friend) did the ceremony. We also invited my Garrison to come out and walk down the aisle with us. It was spectacular, and I thought some of you would like to see the pictures. All photo credits go to JRush Photography.
 







 


 
We even had a Star Wars cake!! And it was delicious!!

A little preview of a Mimban photo shoot we did over this past weekend, more to follow.
 
529th Imperial Armored Battalion, Midwest Garrison
 
Photo Credits: Lance Nielson
Photos taken in the Great War trenches at Midway Village Museum, Rockford, IL
 

 

 
 
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Alright gang!
Okay, here is what I think can be changed.
 
The name.  I actually like the idea of calling it, "Imperial Army Officer: Mimban".  Not a big change, but it seems to fit well.
 
The rank bar entry.
Lvl 1
 Wearer may use any Imperial Army Rank bar as seen in Solo (single row) Translucent plastic tiles mounted on a metal bar and worn on the left side of the upper chest.  Lvl 2
Must use Army Lieutenant (2 red tiles followed by 1 blue) or Army Major (3 red tiles followed by 2 blue)  
Lvl 3
Must use Army Lieutenant (2 red tiles followed by 1 blue)  
Trench coat entry
Lvl 1 unchanged until last bullet point
Collar may have a brown fur (or faux fur) collar lining.  Lvl 2 unchanged
 
Lvl 3
Collar must have a brown fur (or faux fur) collar lining.   
I believe this is holds to the spirit of what is being discussed.  It doesn't address wearing the coat open, as (unless I missed something) the reference for that was from Rogue One, not Solo.
This would also let someone wear a Solo Captain's rank bar at level one, which I think is fair.
What does everyone else think?
Also, the question raised within the CRL Team was will we need to add a photo of the Major rank bar.  I think we would want to.  If anyone has one made (with the larger R1/Solo buttons) and wants to send a photo we can move forward.
 
- Jeff

Since March, a new series called Darth Vader: Dark Visions has been continously released.
 
Good and well written, they show Vader as his persona and powers are widely known within the Empire. However, they also bring out some rather extreme cases of insanity among the imperial staff.
 
Issue nr 1 is a good read. It tells the story of a humanoid alien who witnesses Vader crash land on the aliens homeworld and awakens an enormous monster who the dark lord then fights in an almost medival knight vs dragon tale:
 
Issue nr 2: Well here we go....an Imperial Star Destroyer captain goes absolutely haywire crazy in his desperate attempt to capture a rebel U-wing. You thought the imperial fleet chasing the Falcon in ESB into an asteroid field was crazy? See for yourself...
 
Issue nr 3: And boy oh boy this done had me in stiches. In short, an imperial nurse falls in LOVE with Vader. Yep, you heard right folks. Essentially, she goes Harley Quinn-level of crazy over him:
 
 
 
Could issue 2 and 3 be possible future CRL? "Line officer gone bonkers" & "Imperial Love-crazy Nurse?" xD

Some of you may have seen this on Facebook.  But the Chicago Police Department did a video shoot with members of the 501st Midwest Garrison in promotion of Celebration.  This aired on most of the local news outlets this morning.  

Here is the link:
 
 
Unfortunately I left the Star Destroyer parked in a Loading Zone at O'Hare, at least the CPD got me before Vader
 
 

Good evening.
First I would like to thank @kevair464, @Hask, @Hux, and everyone else involved in getting the initial CRL off the ground. It was a lot of work - and I am standing on their shoulders with my proposal here. Thank you for allowing me the opportunity to weigh in on this with this write-up.
 
I would like to propose the following edits and additions for consideration:

1. That the name of the CRL be changed to read "Imperial Army Officer - Mimban" rather than "Officer - Mimban Lieutenant."
 
Reasoning: There are many more officers present on Mimban than just the Lieutenant. Many are seen in background shots, and there are two additional Imperial Army ranks that are shown on screen. Changing the title of the CRL would allow for more flexibility of choice and options for the membership.
 
2. That under "Trenchcoat" the faux fur collar only be required if the member is attempting to exactly replicate the look of Lieutenant Bolandin and the faux fur collar be moved to an optional item in all other circumstances. Additionally, that an option for the coat to be worn open with no belt (on the outside - naturally a belt would still be required at the waist of the tunic) be added. This will naturally require a tab, as a standard tunic will most certainly be required in that case.
 
Reasoning: There are several instances on screen that show Imperial Officers from both SOLO and Rogue One wearing the trench coat with no fur detail present on the collar. It appears that Lieutenant Bolandin is the only officer seen on screen wearing that particular accessory on his coat. In regards to the coat being worn open with no belt, again, there are multiple instances seen on screen both in SOLO and Rogue One where Imperial Officers are wearing the coat open without a belt.
 
3. That under "Rankbar" the additional ranks of Imperial Army Captain (3 red, 1 blue), and Imperial Army Major (3 red, 2 blue) be included as options.
Reasoning: The officer in the beginning of the Mimban battle scene has been positively identified as a Major (both in the canon novelization of SOLO, and in the movie itself during conversation.) In the scene where Han interrupts Beckett and Val plotting how they are going to steal an AT Hauler he confronts them and correctly surmises (as indicated by Val's reaction of "well now we have to shoot him") that Beckett and company are not Imperial Army, but rather wearing stolen uniforms and looking to steal equipment. The assertion that Beckett is wearing a genuine Imperial Army uniform is further proved when Beckett turns Han over to Lieutenant Bolandin in the next scene. The Lieutenant obviously doesn't recognize Beckett personally, but he recognizes the uniform and the rank as genuine. Finally, the origins of the armor that Beckett and Vall and Rio are wearing is explained in the canon novelization. A screen shot of the relevant passage is included, but my reading of the situation goes that the Korso character was not originally part of Beckett's gang, but rather a disgruntled Imperial military member looking for a ticket off Mimban. He got the uniforms for Beckett, Val, and Rio in exchange for joining the gang and passage off the planet. I feel that the evidence irrefutably supports the inclusion of both Captain and major as canon ranks for imperial Army Officers on Mimban.
 
4. That under "Code Cylinders" the text be amended to to only require code cylinders clipped to the collar of the trench coat if the member is attempting to exactly replicate the look of Lieutenant Bolandin. 
Reasoning: The screenshots of the Major, and from what I could make out - all the other background officers we are able to see the fronts of, do not show any code cylinders clipped to the collar of the trench coat. The Lieutenant appears to be, again, unique in this manner of display. For what it is worth, Beckett is not wearing any code cylinders with his uniform either, but there could be any number of reasons for that, and not necessarily indicative of the dead Captain not having any either.


All this being said, I would at the very least like the CRL to be amended in title, the option be granted to wear Lieutenant, Captain, or Major rank, and that the faux fur on the collar of the trench coat be optional unless one is attempting to specifically portray Lieutenant Bolandin. If none of the edits I propose, I would appreciate those concessions.

My overarching reasoning is thus: Beckett's armor and uniform is genuine, therefore there must have been an Imperial Army Captain on Mimban otherwise Beckett would not be wearing the armor. Likewise with the Major - may whatever entity he may have believed in have mercy on his soul. Additionally, there are a multitude of screenshots that indicate Lieutenant Bolandin may very well be alone in his particular fashion choices. There is overwhelming physical evidence that indicates the fur is not standard, even on Mimban.

As far as the other accessories, such as the sidearm, the belt box, and the Yugo ammo pouch, I feel like a case for those being standard equipment can be made - not withstanding that the Lieutenant is the only officer that is seen wearing them. Whether the Major is wearing those accessories under the trench coat is unclear due to lighting and his relative short time on screen before exploding. This can be explained by the fact that the Lieutenant is the only officer with sufficient screen time to warrant proper "kitting out" as all other background officers are either not seen with their fronts to the camera, or appear for such a short period of time and in such bad lighting that it wasn't worth giving them kit as only people like us would ever notice something like that - lol

The goggles as optional accessories, as currently written into the CRL, also make sense as a standard item, even though it is only Beckett that is seen wearing them. No other officer, the Major or any of the background ones that I could see, are wearing them. That said, the Troopers have a means of shielding their eyes from flying mud, it only makes sense that officers would have that too. Why the others don't have them could be for any number of reasons.

I submit for consideration the following screenshots:

Screenshot 1a/b - This image shows Beckett and Han back to back and offers a good view of the uniform that Beckett is wearing. Present is the seam that runs down the center outside of the sleeve, the distinctive collar, and the wide cuff. Its construction and look is consistent with those worn by other Imperial Officers on Mimban, including Lieutenant Bolandin and the Major, as well as other background officers in the trench scene. It is further consistent with those trench coats worn by Imperial Officers on Jedha, which have been confirmed as the same coats. Evidance from the canon novelization indicates that this armor is genuine.


 
Screenshot 2a/b - This image shows the Major from the opening scene. The image has been artificially lightened and is not of the best quality unfortunately. It is confirmed that he is a Major though both in the movie, as well as in the canon novelization. You will note that the trench coat is of the same variety as that worn by Lieutenant Bolandin, Beckett, and the background officers. Additionally note that both Beckett and the Major are wearing their coats open rather than belted. Evidence suggests that both were acceptable as the background officers present a mixed bag.



Screenshot 3a/b/c - These images show a few background officers, many with their backs turned, or their coats closed. Again the lighting and the resolution are not perfect, but I do not feel that we will ever get anything better unless further shots emerge in the Making of Solo book due out later this year. They all present the same caps as the Lieutenant, Beckett, and the Major, and aside from one who appears to indeed be wearing armor from the ghost of a rank bar protrusion, whether or not they are wearing armor I feel is irrelevant. There are already three solid examples to make the case that Imperial Army Officers on Mimban wore the chest armor over their uniform.




Screenshot 4 - This image is of Imperial Officers on Jedha from Rogue One. It is included to provide a good lighting shot of the Imperial Officer trench coat, as well as to provide an example of one being worn belted and one being worn without a belt.


I welcome any discussion on this proposal, as well as if anyone has the ability to scroll through the Blu-Ray and upload better screen grabs. Mine were taken from 1080 YouTube clips and I feel like they could be better. I have also not tried to doctor them - so if anyone is good at that and can make some of those hidden details pop I would appreciate it.

Thank you and I stand by to answer any questions!


 

Here goes nothing!

Kit finished, here are the official final kit photos for CRL submission. I can always take more on Admin request!

Officially submitted

Front


Back


Left side


Right side


Front detail




Off angle


For fun




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Hi!  I watch this channel daily.  He's always upbeat and looks at the positive side of Star Wars fandom.  I ran into him at the 501st Bash in Orlando last year.  Super cool guy.
Anyway, he did a quick video yesterday about Officer's Uniforms.  Go watch it!
 
 

Your best bet is to go through the sales threads and private message hat makers.
@MKate21 makes a great hat.  As does Demon Dog Studios on Etsy.  20 Eye Designs on Etsy has a good reputation as well.

Hey everyone, I'm going for a line officer and I'm trying to match colors.  I have the jacket, pants, and extra fabric for a hat but I don't know who to send them to.  Any help is appreciated and if possible, the closer the seller is to US the better due to pricing on shipping ,thank you!

It should be this patch I think, which looks very much like the anovos patch.  The best alternative if you ask me haha

It should be this patch I think, which looks very much like the anovos patch.  The best alternative if you ask me haha

It should be this patch I think, which looks very much like the anovos patch.  The best alternative if you ask me haha

Was this posting from Jim Lau? I saw this on the facebook Rogue One group

For what little money you spend CPS isn't bad. And you can always upgrade later if you fall head over heels in love with the costume itself.

But if you haven't been told before, literally BOMBARD them with extra measurements. The custom sized option is an absolute must, and email them a more detailed list after you order. What they ask for will not be enough.

Additionally, if you would like, i have Anovos, CosplaySky, and the Weird Joann's Field grey fabric that i can get photos of if you still need them

What about the "diving into the bridge operations pit like an A-Wing just flew through the window" action pose?

In regards to meeting the emperor, I do recall seeing how stormtroopers would "salute" him, but I'm pretty sure this is not canon.  Take a look at 0:35 in this video
 

Thank you for the thread! Yea I can't fathom at that price tag especially comparing it to everything else Anovos has in their inventory.