shagger999uk

Hello! ID 84795 again!
 Just wanted to share this fantastic photo taken by the awesome Chiara Santaterra! Here it's my Transport Security Officer
46758485244_fa7f89171d_o by Giulia Andriulo, su Flickr

Line Officer Rain Poncho was said to be Black color instead of Olive color base on some picture and info from the designer from the <<Rogue One>> movie.

Jason Womack from what I know is making the poncho and the coat too! I do make some of the ponchos at times. 

I have my olive poncho because I thought it will be matching to my Line suit. LOL and that I can wear it when I go for cons. XD

There are some pattern on how to make the Poncho if you feel like making it yourself.


For the Coat, if you are planing to make it yourself. You can try using this pattern and mode it yourself
For Officer Trenchcoat
https://kwiksew.mccall.com/k4017



if you somehow find this pattern, this is the closest pattern that I can find for the pattern.
Burda 5543  or Vogue V8720




Review design on the vogue pattern:  https://norrisdantaford.com/2018/11/26/vogue-8720-three-ways-to-rock-a-trench-coat/

Some little update

A few months ago, in January to be more exact, I made a rain poncho, guiding me a little about Angelus' work and screenshots of the film.
I made a tutorial for the forum of Spanish Garrison, and now I will be translating it here little by little. I hope you like it

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Fabric: Black nylon 100% waterproof. 3 meters x 1.5 meters.

The rain poncho consist in three main parts: yoke and collar(blue), cape (black) and breastplate(green).

Let's go with the first one.
 
Cape
 
Cape is the most easy part. Consist of two rectangles, wich length is the size from the neck to the upper part of the boots, and width comes from the same point of the neck to the top of your fingers, putting your arms cross.

Then you have to sew it together only on the red line, a little bit more of the half.

 
Yoke and collar
 
This part consist in another four parts: back, front right side, front left side and collar.
 
Back:

I give you mi sizes as reference. It's based on a XL size from CosplaySky suit.

On the last image, the red line correspond to the seams need to be visible, about a 1" from the border.
 
Next, the front left side (from the wearer's point of view) consist in two pieces:



H.2 and H.3 need to be sew it together at the middle. H.3 will be on top of the front right piece. H.4 is the front right piece:

Now that's how it should look:


Grey part from H.4 will be hidden by H.3
Again, visible seams are required. Red are 1" from the border, blue are 1/2":

 
Bib

So sorry if 'bib' it's not the correct name for this piece.
 
The bib is quite simple to make. It consists of four sections, namely: two symmetrical sections, one inch wide, which will go on each side of the bib. A four-inch section on the left side, seen from the front, which will contain the pocket for the dosimeters, and finally a fourth central section.



 
The two outer sections will go down to the edge of our suit jacket, while the other two inner sections will be two inches longer. Remember, once again, to leave seam allowances when cutting the fabric.
 
The pocket in my case I made it four inches deep, enough to contain the dosimeters (at least the ones I have, manufactured by Malakili). For this I simply cut that section with the calculated length, plus twice the depth of the pocket, that is, eight inches. In this way simply by folding we get the pocket.
 
The fourth and last section, the central one, is the simplest. Simply calculate the width to fill in the full width of the shoulder / neck part.
 
And finally the visible seams. Across the bottom, seam to approximately a quarter of an inch to finish off the edge. Another quarter-inch seam in the center section over the pocket section. And most importantly, two cross seams in the pocket section. One inch horizontally from the edge of the pocket, and another vertically one inch to the left of the section. In this way we will "divide" the pocket in two, one of an inch almost useless and the other of three inches where the dosimeters will go. Earlier I said that this section will be four inches, although we now have a pocket really three inches wide. Keep in mind that a pocket less than two and a half inches wide we can have trouble putting two dosimeters.
 


 
Another measure that I have forgotten to comment on before, is that the pocket will be approximately two inches from the top edge.
 
And another thing to keep in mind when joining the three parts of the poncho, is that you have to form a "sandwich" in the following order from outside to inside: shoulders, cape and bib. I will leave some photos where I hope you can see well what I mean.





 
 
 

I need to open by saying I could not have drafted this pattern without the help/photos Ellen Streichfuß provided, and the helpful tutorial thread by Joey Lim. I just wanted to drop photos of my work here in case it is helpful! 

Your measurements will vary! These are based off my measurements but this should give you a better idea of the pattern pieces & proportions. 

Front bottom layer:

Note: The finished bottom layer sits roughly 3" higher than the finished middle/top layer. 

Front middle layer:

Note: The flat-felled seams belong to the top layer, I just show them here for the sake of positioning. 
Feel free to give yourself MORE of a bleed at the sides if you would like. I had to measure extremely carefully. If that worries you, feel free to make the bleeds a whole 2"! 
To make the pocket I Just traced the left side but stopped 5" into the pattern. (so 2" for a nice large bleed, 1" for the side thing, 2" for the pocket) 

Front top:


I kept calling them flat-felled seams but honestly I just wound up folding them under, pinned it to the middle, and sewed it down roughly 1/4" from the edge. I was going to get fancier but the more I looked at the refs and what others were doing the less I felt it was necessary. 

This is how the entire top looks together: 

It's clearer here how the back sits 3" higher than the front. 
Also there's no good way (I found) for me to tell you how to position the pocket & position this on the yoke. I did the yoke first and just kind of pinned the front where I thought it looked good and eyeballed the top of the pocket. This is kind of why I didn't do a full step-by-step tutorial. A lot of this is just "hold it up and see if it looks okay".  Same goes for where exactly you attach this piece to your yoke. When I was planning the above pieces, I wasn't sure of the length measurement, I wound up just kind of winging it by putting the finished yoke on top of my tunic then measuring from the front center of the yoke to roughly where I thought the front should fall. I added 3" to the bottom of the top, pocket & middle pieces so I could fold them under and attach it to the bottom piece, so there's no top seam.  (again this is was so, ridiculously, winged)

Yoke back:

So I feel bad, I should have put the pattern weights on this one because it's actually 18.5" wide. It just came up a little short because the folds weren't flat enough, sorry about that. The size will vary depending on your shoulder width, but this is the gist of the shape! 

Front left: 


Front top right: 


I decided to put a slight curve into mine. I liked it better when I was mocking up my test fabric on the mannequin. I thought it looked a little closer to the reference photos I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure if this is how they did it, or if it's actually straight and the camera was playing tricks on me. So feel free to cut it in whichever way looks best to you personally! 

Front bottom right: 


This goes under the top piece, the top piece will snap/velcro down to this. 

Roughly how the front goes together: 


I put a HUGE bleed in the front center because  I knew I had to top-stitch and I was afraid of not catching the fabric beneath it. Turned out to be a non-issue and I could have made that bleed smaller, oops. 

The neck is just a folded-over strip that's roughly 3" (so 6" total then fold it) so I didn't make or include a pattern piece for it. I have a quilting ruler I just traced for that purpose! 

I was going to post my cape but HONESTLY I like charlyselo's cape better. His tutorial wasn't live when I did my poncho, otherwise I would have used his method in this thread here.

Here's my final.

You can try some of this.

The coat looks somewhat like this but you may have to redraw some parts to make it bigger (I never use this before)
https://www.lekala.co/catalog/men/coa/pattern/6030

or you can use this but there are alot more add on to work on ( I did use this as a base to work around it abit) 
https://kwiksew.mccall.com/k4017

 

1# The back have Top-stitched that part which is you are pointing . Like the krennic's picture below



2# The split starts around the butt level.  For the front and back of that end part here are the photos.



The back part along the sides of the cape I add around 2inc of it to cover up the serged edges as if you see on Krennic's cape on his picture you can see it for the front and back. Just for the front part of the cape (here the arm come out from), I put about 1.5inc for the back. 




 

3#  This cape which is my V.5.... I have not top-stitching it down (ie......have not finish it...)

 

Here are some of the pattern (will try to add more soon) and picture of the build for Line/Staff/Krennic Poncho

Take note that

1) Krennic's Cape is much longer then the Line/Staff officer's cape

2) Krennic front have a pocket. But the Line/Staff officer do not have.

The patterning is pretty easy it is just the sewing the detail of the line can be hard. So do change the needle on the sew machine if you are planing to do it yourself. Using the normal needle can sometime cost the sting to jump a few sticting. Do be careful when sewing waterproof fabric as once you poke a hole, the hole stays. 

Needle: Microtex







The cape is more of a rectangle shape. So cut two of this. And if you have a mannequin, it will be better. so you can pin the cape to the top part nicely.

It will be better to pin and see where you want the below part to be.

This is my test mock up on krennic's pocket. I think it is called a Welt Pocket.
Here are some of the links on how to do it
http://www.thebusybean.com/2012/07/how-to-welt-pocket-with-exposed-zipper/
https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2013/10/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-welt-pocket.html







The Opening of the top cape
ok this is how I did it.

 
 




 











ok. You can see the different in the cape length of it.








If you really want to be more waterproof (not for heavy rain), you can try to spray waterproof spray onto the costume (or for your daily wear too!). But every how and then you have to spray it. Because the waterproof spray do not stay onto the outfit very long. It is really usefull for hats! I did use some of the waterproof spray when I go oversea on my hat or my jacket when there is light rain like England.....

It looks something like this. 

trying out XD 

I am just guessing..... there is no button. LOL....

It is by gravity LOL...


ok this is what I kind of build so far. 

Ok I've finally finished the detailed and (mostly) to scale drawings of my Cloak/Cape pattern. I still need to work on the wording of how to describe everything for the cRL, but the pictures really help. I also have this cloak/cape available to order at my etsy shop now: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
 

 

 
To see more of my commission work, check out my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/thecostumemakersguidetothegalaxy/
 
 
 
 

Charging the dosimeter resets or zeros it.
 
http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/cdmuseum2/radkits/dose.html
 

Charging the dosimeter resets or zeros it.
 
http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/cdmuseum2/radkits/dose.html
 

Charging the dosimeter resets or zeros it.
 
http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/cdmuseum2/radkits/dose.html
 

more trench coat reference. Let's make this happen people!
 




 

 

Did someone say (black) staff officers with BLACK coat??!! Oh please oh please, I hope this can become an optional accessory
 

How about as its not seen how its done we lose the method of attaching the cape? 

Annnnnnnd Here it is !!! 

Well if i am correct and the coat is indeed very inspired by those WW2 motorcycling rubber coats , there is great chances the the front looks very much like that
Minus the shoulder tabs probably ...
 

Yeah , the trench-coat coat are really a nice addition . It seems logical as well that some Officers are wearing them if the weather isn't always great on a certain planet , but in the OT all of them were either on the Death Star or Star Destroyers so no need for any additional field equipment .
 
Looks to me like it was loosely based on the rubber trench-coat used by German motorized infantry during WW2 . And loosely is sort of an understatement here ...
 

ACTUALLY ....

There has already been a discussion regarding those trench-coats , and i hate to bring it up again but i have identified those coats months ago alongside Krennic's blaster and boots . The topic you are looking for is this one : http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6059-rogue-one/&page=3
 

Thing is on those most recent pictures they don't quite look like rubber , so many it's the same kind of coat / pattern but made out of heavy duty fabric . After all those coats weren't exclusively used as rain-coats but were also wind-proof and dust-proof . Or maybe it's just rubber but matte instead of somewhat shiny . Can't wait for the Visual Guide , i'm sure it'll provide valuable informations and pictures as usual . After all they were kind enough to mention what was Hux's greatcoat made of in the TFA one , so they should mention the material for those coats as well . If they are indeed rubber coats they will be easy to find ... Sort of
 
Hmm ... They really look like they're made of heavy-weight fabric though , the parka kind of fabric , most likely treated to be water-proof as well . The have too many folds to be made of rubber . Dammit , we'll need to go custom made again ...