KDKdesign
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Posts posted by KDKdesign
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Hi Everyone - I want to talk to you guys about Underlining - you may have never heard of it before - but it is a basic tailoring method to add body to your suit jacket and also serves as a base layer for hand-sewing your hem and sewing down the seam allowances so they lay flt. Basically, you cut all of your pattern pieces out of your main/fashion fabric and then another set out of the fabric you want to underline it them, like a cotton broadcloth or a canvas for a thicker interfaced areas - and then pin the matching pattern pieces together and zigzag the edges to make them one unified piece. This helps thicken your main fabric if it's a bit on the thin side or stabilize it if it has un-needed stretch to it. In the video I show how I underline my officer tunics, the benefits of underlining and tips for using fabric as interfacing too. Any questions, please let me know! thanks
And here's some picture of underlining in my tunic:
And if you're interested in commissioning me for this or another officer tunic ( I can make them all) - here's my post with more info - thanks again
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I certainly know LMOs aren't going to be that picky - there's really no way they could tell the exact difference.
It's just the issue that comes up on the vendor-end when we get asked by our potential customers about every little detail, and they want to be sure the patch is the CRL size and you have to explain why your patch is a little different than the crl... And I know there are people making their own costumes out there that think they have to have the exact right measurements or they won't get approved.
So I'll be sure to tell my customers that the sizes are approx .... maybe if it just said the patch was Approx 3" tall? and maybe that it's a perfect hexagon like the logo - because that is a 'right look' issue
- rattleandburn and DarthMel
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Here's some of the research Pics I have of the Epaulets/shoulder boards on the jacket and the great coat - I make my epaulets 2" wide and have them extend 1" past shoulder seam of the sleeve - and that seems to be about the same dimensions I see in these photo*). I have pics of the shoulder boards on the Lieutenant and staff officers tunic too that seem to be the same size as Hux. I can work on compiling those later and better proof of the size dimensions.
* FYI I make my First Order Patches Symmetrical Hexagons 3" tall x 2 5/8" wide - I have research info about that too I posted in a different thread in this section of the forum
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I'd like to suggest a slight change to the size of the First Order Shoulder Patch (I'm glad to have finally found where to post CRL suggestions - yay!)
The First Order logo itself is a perfectly symmetrical hexagon (like the hat pin). So if the patch is 3" tall then it should be approx 2 5/8" wide (that's what I get when drawing a hexagon with 1.5" radius/ 3" diameter in Illustrator). Here's my drawing and research pictures comparing the 2 sizes of patches made by my patch marker Mirror Universe on etsy. We worked together to make the symmetrical size of the patch we thought better matches the movie patches: 3" x 2 5/8".
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On 10/14/2016 at 5:54 PM, LordMalexit said:
Did anyone find someone who makes the cap?
In case anyone is still looking for the FO caps - I make them and you can order them on my etsy page:https://www.etsy.com/listing/461698430/special-deal-refer-a-friend-and-save-5
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Yeah, I agree we will have different versions of the suits based on which movie they are from - the hat pin is definitely different, and the first order patches on suits that had them in TLJ seemed shinier - I think I even saw differences among the same types of uniforms within the TLJ movie... but at least in this new movie there will be a lot of reference pics - front, back, side, top, etc to use - so yay to that.... I'm just sad Hux never took is coat off, very happy about getting more info on the coat, but really would have liked a better back view of his suit... but I had a feeling he'd keep the coat on the entire movie
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I also make the First Order Officer Hats and have researched them a lot - in the following photos I can show that there is top-stitching along both sides of the hat crown's main seams, in addition to the single line of top-stitching along the bottom edge - and I think I see top-stitching along the outer edges of the flap as well. In the lower res photos, like the side view of Rose, you only see the bottom line of top-stitching because it is going through so many layers of fabric that is causes a deep crevasse to form with a dark shadow- the top-stitching along the seams in the upper portion of the hat don't show as well in the low res pics, so I'm including the high res pics we got of the hats from the lat movie to show the top-stitching. In the new movie, I saw a lot of good shots of the hats in which I think the seaming and top-stitching on the back side of the hats (which we didn't get good pic of in the previous movie) will be clearer.
Here's the Teal hat:
Here's the Grey Lieutenant Hat
OK I tried to find the highest Resolution photo from the new movie I could - I can see some faint lines next to the seam line which I think are top-stitching lines - you may not see them on you computer screen. I also included the side view of Rose to show another design feature of the hat that hasn't been mentioned in the CRLs: the brim of the hat is parallel/level with the front of the hat (it doesn't angle up/out like a baseball cap does) - this design detail could certainly be a higher level feature and not required for basic hat approval.
Here's a link to the original hi res photo of rose and finn - you may see the faint lines better on it:
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hello all - think I saw a Center Back Seam on the top portion of the jacket on the Teal Uniform Rose was wearing in the movie - I think it was when Finn, DJ, and Rose were trying to open the door to the tracking power source. I agree with you guys that my best guess before seeing the movie was that it wouldn't have/need one, but I do think I saw a center back seam - and I couldn't tell if it was also in the back skirt portion as well, as it wouldn't have to be given the waist seam - and I couldn't tell if that suit had a back vent or not but as I didn't see any flap move in the movie.
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I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
I'll message Kris!
- Hask, buckrogersbarker, bjsavage7 and 3 others
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8 hours ago, Exaldear said:
Slightly more expensive than magnolis, but I think I will go for yours if you allow split payments. I'll click you a pm here.
Yes I do allow for split payments! I had the opportunity to handle Magnoli's cloak, and it is made differently than what I've represented as my research findings for screen-accuracy. It mostly isn't their fault as it looks like they were trying to follow the original CRL requirements, which we've all shown in this thread have a lot of errors in the them. But they also decided to make their cloak from a 'heavy duty cotton' (looks to me like cotton canvas) rather than a lightweight cotton like the CRL says. I do make my cloak from a lightweight cotton twill fabric like the movie costume, and I did all my independent research to try to insure my pattern is as accurate as possible.
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This is the diagram I drew for the cape showing the seamline locations and portions so people could use it as a guide when drafting their own patterns. I'll eventually be making a sewing pattern available for sale for it but it will be sometime before I can get it ready. I do have this cape available for sale on my etsy page: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
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Ok - be aware that the Magnoli Cloak is NOT a lightweight cotton - it says in the description that it is a 'heavy-duty ivory cotton'. I just got someone else's Magnoli cloak in and to me it looks like a heavy cotton canvas material. I'll post pics later showing the differences. Their seaming is a bit off too - it mostly follows the original cape CRL which has errors in it that still need to be changed/updated.
Their tunic looks nice though....
After re-looking at the tunic some more, it's well made but doesn't have all the correct seaming on the outside (the bottom skirt has all the sames vertical seams as the upper part which isn't screen accurate) and they don't include all the inner construction I use on my tunic (the interfacing in the jacket body light not stiff like horse hair canvas, the inner lining doesn't have the same seaming as the outside. So it may give me some ideas of how to reduce the amount of inside work I do on my tunic to get a lower price on them while still all the screen outer seaming of my tunics that theirs don't have. The best part about their tunic is the nice fabric, but I would not recommend getting their cloak mainly because of the heavy cotton fabric they use. I do have a a lightweight cotton twill fabric in an off-white/ivory color that matches the Magnoli Ivory tunic perfectly.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
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Well, cotton in general gets wrinkly whether it is twill or not - and the cloak in the photo you took on exhibit, the cape was wrinkly there too. This specific fabric from Joann's is a poly/cotton blend, which should wrinkle less, and it is a easily available fabric in the USA - if we only want to say that this specific fabric could work. If I can think of a good way to wear test, it I will
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Ok - this took long enough to do that the lightening changed in my room enough so I can take pictures here.
So here's my Cape Mock-up made from the Joann's Symphony Broadcloth 65% poly / 35% cotton in White http://www.joann.com/symphony-broadcloth-solid-quilt-fabric/prd10006.html - remember this was a mock-up of my first pattern: the yoke is just pinned on, there are no arm slits, and the right side panel has been removed - and the Final Pattern had more fabric in it so it looks a bit wider because it IS wider.
Here is what the mock-up looked like when it was all bunch-up in the bag before and then after I ironed it:
Here it is on my dress form:
And here are photos I took of the FINAL Cape I made from the lightweight cotton twill in the same setting for comparison. But again this isn't a true apples to apples comparison has the final pattern had more fabric in it so it is wider by design not because of the fabric (and the mock-up is missing the right hand front panel)
I agree that my final cape fabric - the lightweight cotton twill - does look better, but I think the mock-up the poly/cotton broadcloth doesn't look bad and has a nice crisp hand and swoosh sound to it when you play with it. I think would be good enough for approval, especially since it is hard to find a LIGHTWEIGHT Twill Cotton fabric.
I think the more important factor to how good or cheap the cape looks is the quality of construction. This is a VERY technical costume build that requires a LOT of precision to pull-off (if you are constructing it like I believe they did on the movie capes - with seams that are interlocking folded over edges with 3 lines of perfectly spaced parallel topstitching sewn along the overlapping seam area). I can probably make this cheaper fabric look as good as another better fabric because of my sewing experience and know-how. But a less skilled sewer is going to have troubles with any fabric they choose. That's why I sell the cape on its own so someone can make their jacket and pants, but can have someone else make the cape.
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Ok - I found my cape mock-up - it was balled up in a bag so obviously it is a bit wrinkly but really not that bad - I'm ironing it now and will take a picture of it on my dress form
Update - it's a horrible time in my room to take pictures as I have early morning sunlight - I'm going to have to go somewhere else to - but I'm working on it!
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2 hours ago, eliste said:
Hate to disagree with you, but quilting cotton would not, imo, be suitable at all for the cape. It will look cheap and very unlike the original cape. It will be too light, and almost see through.Here in the USA Jo Ann stores there is quite a variety to quilting cotton - a very good quality cotton JoAnn sells is the Kona Brand. But I used the cheaper classic country 65% poly/35%cotton as a mock-up and it had a very nice crisp drape to it much like my final cape fabric. And given that the cape took me 8 1/3 yards to make, you need a lightweight fabric for it or the drape will be too heavy.
And I know exactly the cotton twill fabric from JoAnn's he is talking about - I use it from my hats and suits - it is too heavy for the cape.
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12 hours ago, MrKite6 said:
Again, apologies for my ignorance. I'm really not all that fabric-savvy :/
It's not you're fault - this CRL's fabric descriptions are very confusing and need to be clarified.
For the Suit Tunic & pants, the best option is a cotton and/or polyester medium weight twill fabric in White or off-white for the Tunic and Black for the pants. Your link to the bottom weight twill fabrics at JoAnn's are good options for the Tunic and Pants (and that white twill it too heavy for the cloak/cape).
The Cloack/Cape fabric is harder to find a perfect match. I make and sell the cape from a lightweight cotton twill fabric that I bought up for my inventory. But I'm thinking just a plain white cotton fabric, like you'd find in the quilting area of JoAnn's, would work, but Mark may need to confirm that. I'd say white cotton quilting fabric was a very 'similar fabric' as the CRL says is acceptable, as you can barely tell the lightweight twill is even a twill unless you are really looking at it.
Here is my cape - it looks like plain white cotton (but it is a twill) : https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
and here's my cape fabric:
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21 hours ago, DarthFunk83 said:
This looks really amazing!! I'm considering this for my Krennic
your work looks amazing
Thank You! If you message me directly and I can allow you to make multiple payments and pay it off over time.
I make the suit as well - I'll post pics of it when I decide on a new place to store my photos as I used to use Photobucket.
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Ok I've finally finished the detailed and (mostly) to scale drawings of my Cloak/Cape pattern. I still need to work on the wording of how to describe everything for the cRL, but the pictures really help. I also have this cloak/cape available to order at my etsy shop now: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
- Ithilnar, shagger999uk and Sokar117
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I haven't forgotten about needing to share the drawing of my final cape design - I'm still recovering from the pre-celebration craziness.
I'm glad you guys already pointed out a major error in the original CRL that I agree with - slit definitely starts around crotch level not knees - when I measured the photos, it appeared that the slit started at the halfway point of the center back seam (starting where the seam meets the top yoke). I don't think the wording has to be that exact though - I think 'around crotch level' may be enough.
I also have a possible answer to why there's topstitching on the yoke - it's better if I show my photo evidence for it so I save the questions about why I think it. Hopefully I'll be back with more info for you guys sooner than later
For now here's some photos of my final cape:
http://s1208.photobucket.com/user/Obi_Wan_Dombek/slideshow/Krennic_Cape
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Looking to buy 2 bash tickets - thanks!
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I agree with Meg that abuse wouldn't make it look like top-stitching. If it is was a seam, there would be shadowed dark solid line where the 2 folded edges of the fabric meet when seamed together - but the only shadowed fold line is the folded edge of the yoke's outer side. Also the single angled line of top-stitching going through the yoke looks just like the 3 rows of top-stitching edging the yoke's side edge in terms of coloration and spacing of broken up dark shadows from the individual stitches.
I also think the top-stitching goes up to the High Point Shoulder (HPS) - which is where the shoulder seam (if there was one) would meet the collar - just like Meg said. I just didn't want to say that for certain until I draped the cape.
I'm meeting up with Mark this weekend to fit his jacket, and I'll get measurements for his cape - once I drape out the pattern, I'll post more info and a detailed drawing on how the cape is constructed.
Hux & FO General amends!
in CRL Updates
Posted
I agree that the scene in the TFA shows a full back slit - but after reviewing the rest of TFA movie and TLJ - I saw no evidence of a slit on the coat in any other scene: no slit openings with empty space intween slits -plus with a slit like that, his boots would clearly be seen going through the slit when walking which doesn't happen in a video I have include (and it wouldn't be a good look forthe costume). Instead I found a lot og evidence that supports the inverted box pleat for below the waist and above the waist in the back - and inverted box pleat is commonly used in tailored coat to give extra movement room in the shoulders as well as long coat skirts - as scene in the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (at bottom) - I'm posting what I can now as I have mother's day thing to do today (an dhad planned to post this info with all my new FO research but the topic came up today) - I'd be happy to discuss this more later - as I know the slit evidence is there in the TFA scene, but I think that is a scene drawn in CGI and the animators misunderstood the pressed edges of the box pleat as a slit - and that the actual costume in both TFA & TLJ have an inverted box pleat along the entire Center back that is sewn shut at the waist.
The TLJ coat clearly has fabric between the pressed edges of the box pleat that cover the boot so the boot does not go through the opening:
Here's a scene of Hux walking away in TFA - you seen the flat shine and vertical edge of the pressed pleat when he walks away - but no boot coming through an opening, which is what would happen if there was a slit:
Here''s the inverted box pleat in the upper portion of the coat clearly open in and pooped out in TLJ - and my coat I make showing the same affect:
You can see the back pleat opening up a few inches below the collar seam - TLJ - I have more pics of this pleat in other TLJ scenes
so in conclusion - here is how I think the back of the Huc great coat in made in both TFA & TLJ _ and the Sherlock coat to show how these type of inverted box pleats are used in other long coats: