KDKdesign

Description: First Order crew
Prefix: ID
Detachment: Imperial Officer Corps 
Context: The Last Jedi
First Order Crew consists of Non-Commissioned officers assigned to the bridge of a starship or command centre. These crew members monitor and coordinate overall functions.
 
First Order Crew Tunic, Black
-Fabric is a smooth, light to medium weight material exactly matching the pants and has a noticeable sheen.
-Tunic is fitted.
-The First Order patch is centered on left bicep.
-The collar is snugly fitting, mandarin style and is secured at the front with hidden hook and eye closures.
-The tunic has epaulettes on both shoulders and are sewn down flat, running from the collar seam to just past the top of the arm seam.
-The tunic is free of stitching on the sleeves, collar, tunic opening or along the bottom of the tunic.
-Sleeves are long and end at the wrist.
-Front: The front seams on the chest curve back into the torso
~Front Hemline is approximately 1” longer than the backside hemline
~Has a sharp angled drop approximately ⅓” distance between side seams and center seam
-The closures are hidden inside the opening of the tunic.
-Back: There are princess seams on the back.
~There is a seam to the rear of each side of the torso from under the arm continuing to the bottom.
-The Tunic material is a shiny, wrinkle-less material.
 
 Crew, Jodhpur Trousers, Black
-Fabric is a medium weight black suiting material exactly matching the tunic
-Flared riding breeches have semi-stiff flares in the hip/thigh area, below the tunic and above the knee.
-Pocket “Flaps” are present on both sides of the pants – Does not need to be functional.
 
Crew Boots, Black
Knee-high, black, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material, with moderate to high-gloss shine.
There are no stretch panels, buckles, snap tabs, or decoration.
Boot seams closely match screen-used boots.
Soles are flat.
If zippers are present, they are on the inner part of the boot shaft only.
 
First Order Rank Insignia.
Worn on the left side of arm, above the wrist and below the elbow
Rank consists of one black band sewn down to the sleeve with Aurebesh embroidered on it. The edges utilize piping or an embroidered line on each side.
The Aurebesh spells "RO8" or "Hal4"
Both piping (if used) and embroidery (Aurabesh and lines) are white. 
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The edges are embroidered
 




 
 

I agree that the scene in the TFA shows a full back slit - but after reviewing the rest of TFA movie and TLJ - I saw no evidence of a slit on the coat in any other scene: no slit openings with empty space intween slits -plus with a slit like that, his boots would clearly be seen going through the slit when walking  which doesn't happen in a video I have include (and it wouldn't be a good look forthe costume).  Instead I found a lot og evidence that supports the inverted box pleat for below the waist and above the waist in the back - and inverted box pleat is commonly used in tailored coat to give extra movement room in the shoulders as well as long coat skirts - as scene in the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (at bottom) - I'm posting what I can now as I have mother's day thing to do today (an dhad planned to post this info with all my new FO research but the topic came up today) - I'd be happy to discuss this more later - as I know the slit evidence is there in the TFA scene, but I think that is a scene drawn in CGI and the animators misunderstood the pressed edges of the box pleat as a slit - and that the actual costume in both TFA & TLJ have an inverted box pleat along the entire Center back that is sewn shut at the waist.
 
The TLJ coat clearly has fabric between the pressed edges of the box pleat that cover the boot so the boot does not go through the opening:
 

 
Here's a scene of Hux walking away in TFA - you seen the flat shine and vertical edge of the pressed pleat when he walks away - but no boot coming through an opening, which is what would happen if there was a slit:
 
Here''s the inverted box pleat in the upper portion of the coat clearly open in and pooped out in TLJ - and my coat I make showing the same affect:
 
    
 
You can see the back pleat opening up a few inches below the collar seam - TLJ - I have more pics of this pleat in other TLJ scenes

 
so in conclusion - here is how I think the back of the Huc great coat in made in both TFA & TLJ _ and the Sherlock coat to show how these type of inverted box pleats are used in other long coats:

 
 
 

I agree that the scene in the TFA shows a full back slit - but after reviewing the rest of TFA movie and TLJ - I saw no evidence of a slit on the coat in any other scene: no slit openings with empty space intween slits -plus with a slit like that, his boots would clearly be seen going through the slit when walking  which doesn't happen in a video I have include (and it wouldn't be a good look forthe costume).  Instead I found a lot og evidence that supports the inverted box pleat for below the waist and above the waist in the back - and inverted box pleat is commonly used in tailored coat to give extra movement room in the shoulders as well as long coat skirts - as scene in the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (at bottom) - I'm posting what I can now as I have mother's day thing to do today (an dhad planned to post this info with all my new FO research but the topic came up today) - I'd be happy to discuss this more later - as I know the slit evidence is there in the TFA scene, but I think that is a scene drawn in CGI and the animators misunderstood the pressed edges of the box pleat as a slit - and that the actual costume in both TFA & TLJ have an inverted box pleat along the entire Center back that is sewn shut at the waist.
 
The TLJ coat clearly has fabric between the pressed edges of the box pleat that cover the boot so the boot does not go through the opening:
 

 
Here's a scene of Hux walking away in TFA - you seen the flat shine and vertical edge of the pressed pleat when he walks away - but no boot coming through an opening, which is what would happen if there was a slit:
 
Here''s the inverted box pleat in the upper portion of the coat clearly open in and pooped out in TLJ - and my coat I make showing the same affect:
 
    
 
You can see the back pleat opening up a few inches below the collar seam - TLJ - I have more pics of this pleat in other TLJ scenes

 
so in conclusion - here is how I think the back of the Huc great coat in made in both TFA & TLJ _ and the Sherlock coat to show how these type of inverted box pleats are used in other long coats:

 
 
 

I agree that the scene in the TFA shows a full back slit - but after reviewing the rest of TFA movie and TLJ - I saw no evidence of a slit on the coat in any other scene: no slit openings with empty space intween slits -plus with a slit like that, his boots would clearly be seen going through the slit when walking  which doesn't happen in a video I have include (and it wouldn't be a good look forthe costume).  Instead I found a lot og evidence that supports the inverted box pleat for below the waist and above the waist in the back - and inverted box pleat is commonly used in tailored coat to give extra movement room in the shoulders as well as long coat skirts - as scene in the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (at bottom) - I'm posting what I can now as I have mother's day thing to do today (an dhad planned to post this info with all my new FO research but the topic came up today) - I'd be happy to discuss this more later - as I know the slit evidence is there in the TFA scene, but I think that is a scene drawn in CGI and the animators misunderstood the pressed edges of the box pleat as a slit - and that the actual costume in both TFA & TLJ have an inverted box pleat along the entire Center back that is sewn shut at the waist.
 
The TLJ coat clearly has fabric between the pressed edges of the box pleat that cover the boot so the boot does not go through the opening:
 

 
Here's a scene of Hux walking away in TFA - you seen the flat shine and vertical edge of the pressed pleat when he walks away - but no boot coming through an opening, which is what would happen if there was a slit:
 
Here''s the inverted box pleat in the upper portion of the coat clearly open in and pooped out in TLJ - and my coat I make showing the same affect:
 
    
 
You can see the back pleat opening up a few inches below the collar seam - TLJ - I have more pics of this pleat in other TLJ scenes

 
so in conclusion - here is how I think the back of the Huc great coat in made in both TFA & TLJ _ and the Sherlock coat to show how these type of inverted box pleats are used in other long coats:

 
 
 

Hi Everyone - I want to talk to you guys about Underlining - you may have never heard of it before - but it is a basic tailoring method to add body to your suit jacket and also serves as a base layer for hand-sewing your hem and sewing down the seam allowances so they lay flt. Basically, you cut all of your pattern pieces out of your main/fashion fabric and then another set out of the fabric you want to underline it them, like a cotton broadcloth or a canvas for a thicker interfaced areas - and then pin the matching pattern pieces together and zigzag the edges to make them one unified piece. This helps thicken your main fabric if it's a bit on the thin side or stabilize it if it has un-needed stretch to it. In the video I show how I underline my officer tunics, the benefits of underlining and tips for using fabric as interfacing too. Any questions, please let me know! thanks
 
 
And here's some picture of underlining in my tunic:
 

 
 
And if you're interested in commissioning me for this or another officer tunic ( I can make them all) - here's my post with more info - thanks again
 

Hi Everyone - I want to talk to you guys about Underlining - you may have never heard of it before - but it is a basic tailoring method to add body to your suit jacket and also serves as a base layer for hand-sewing your hem and sewing down the seam allowances so they lay flt. Basically, you cut all of your pattern pieces out of your main/fashion fabric and then another set out of the fabric you want to underline it them, like a cotton broadcloth or a canvas for a thicker interfaced areas - and then pin the matching pattern pieces together and zigzag the edges to make them one unified piece. This helps thicken your main fabric if it's a bit on the thin side or stabilize it if it has un-needed stretch to it. In the video I show how I underline my officer tunics, the benefits of underlining and tips for using fabric as interfacing too. Any questions, please let me know! thanks
 
 
And here's some picture of underlining in my tunic:
 

 
 
And if you're interested in commissioning me for this or another officer tunic ( I can make them all) - here's my post with more info - thanks again
 

Hi Everyone - I want to talk to you guys about Underlining - you may have never heard of it before - but it is a basic tailoring method to add body to your suit jacket and also serves as a base layer for hand-sewing your hem and sewing down the seam allowances so they lay flt. Basically, you cut all of your pattern pieces out of your main/fashion fabric and then another set out of the fabric you want to underline it them, like a cotton broadcloth or a canvas for a thicker interfaced areas - and then pin the matching pattern pieces together and zigzag the edges to make them one unified piece. This helps thicken your main fabric if it's a bit on the thin side or stabilize it if it has un-needed stretch to it. In the video I show how I underline my officer tunics, the benefits of underlining and tips for using fabric as interfacing too. Any questions, please let me know! thanks
 
 
And here's some picture of underlining in my tunic:
 

 
 
And if you're interested in commissioning me for this or another officer tunic ( I can make them all) - here's my post with more info - thanks again
 

Hi Everyone - I want to talk to you guys about Underlining - you may have never heard of it before - but it is a basic tailoring method to add body to your suit jacket and also serves as a base layer for hand-sewing your hem and sewing down the seam allowances so they lay flt. Basically, you cut all of your pattern pieces out of your main/fashion fabric and then another set out of the fabric you want to underline it them, like a cotton broadcloth or a canvas for a thicker interfaced areas - and then pin the matching pattern pieces together and zigzag the edges to make them one unified piece. This helps thicken your main fabric if it's a bit on the thin side or stabilize it if it has un-needed stretch to it. In the video I show how I underline my officer tunics, the benefits of underlining and tips for using fabric as interfacing too. Any questions, please let me know! thanks
 
 
And here's some picture of underlining in my tunic:
 

 
 
And if you're interested in commissioning me for this or another officer tunic ( I can make them all) - here's my post with more info - thanks again
 

I certainly know LMOs aren't going to be that picky - there's really no way they could tell the exact difference.
 
It's just the issue that comes up on the vendor-end when we get asked by our potential customers about every little detail, and they want to be sure the patch is the CRL size and you have to explain why your patch is a little different than the crl... And I know there are people making their own costumes out there that think they have to have the exact right measurements or they won't get approved.
 
So I'll be sure to tell my customers that the sizes are approx .... maybe if it just said the patch was Approx 3" tall?  and maybe that it's a perfect hexagon like the logo - because that is a 'right look' issue

I certainly know LMOs aren't going to be that picky - there's really no way they could tell the exact difference.
 
It's just the issue that comes up on the vendor-end when we get asked by our potential customers about every little detail, and they want to be sure the patch is the CRL size and you have to explain why your patch is a little different than the crl... And I know there are people making their own costumes out there that think they have to have the exact right measurements or they won't get approved.
 
So I'll be sure to tell my customers that the sizes are approx .... maybe if it just said the patch was Approx 3" tall?  and maybe that it's a perfect hexagon like the logo - because that is a 'right look' issue

^yes, size wise. But, an even-sided shape versus a squished shape is a significant visual difference at any size. (but, that's where researching your build comes in)
 

I'd like to suggest a slight change to the size of the First Order Shoulder Patch (I'm glad to have finally found where to post CRL suggestions - yay!)
 
The First Order logo itself is a perfectly symmetrical hexagon (like the hat pin). So if the patch is 3" tall then it should be approx 2 5/8" wide (that's what I get when drawing a hexagon with 1.5" radius/ 3" diameter in Illustrator). Here's my drawing and research pictures comparing the 2 sizes of patches made by my patch marker Mirror Universe on etsy. We worked together to make the symmetrical size of the patch we thought better matches the movie patches: 3" x 2 5/8".
 

Your cape looks great to me - very well done!

yeah it looks like it's only the teal uniform Colonel/Major officers who are always wearing a hat - I'm excited to work on improvements to my hat pattern with all the better pics we'll now have to work with - but I like the Hux look without the hat too, gotta show off the that red hair

I also make the First Order Officer Hats and have researched them a lot - in the following photos I can show that there is top-stitching along both sides of the hat crown's main seams, in addition to the single line of top-stitching along the bottom edge - and I think I see top-stitching along the outer edges of the flap as well. In the lower res photos, like the side view of Rose, you only see the bottom line of top-stitching because it is going through so many layers of fabric that is causes a deep crevasse to form with a dark shadow- the top-stitching along the seams in the upper portion of the hat don't show as well in the low res pics, so I'm including the high res pics we got of the hats from the lat movie to show the top-stitching.  In the new movie, I saw a lot of good shots of the hats in which I think the seaming and top-stitching on the back side of the hats (which we didn't get good pic of in the previous movie) will be clearer.
 
Here's the Teal hat:

 
Here's the Grey Lieutenant Hat

 
 
OK I tried to find the highest Resolution photo from the new movie I could - I can see some faint lines next to the seam line which I think are top-stitching lines - you may not see them on you computer screen. I also included the side view of Rose to show another design feature of the hat that hasn't been mentioned in the CRLs: the brim of the hat is parallel/level with the front of the hat (it doesn't angle up/out like a baseball cap does) - this design detail could certainly be a higher level feature and not required for basic hat approval.
 

 
Here's a link to the original hi res photo of rose and finn - you may see the faint lines better on it:

 
 

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

I am a tailor/seamstress who would be interested in being listed - I've made a few different costumes for IOC members - Krennic, First Order General Hux, Imperial Officer, and Emperor Palpatine - it appears most of the parts I made only go up to Level 2 - but I always make each part to the highest level certification, often including more details that aren't even in the CRL yet.
 
I'll message Kris!

Thanks all if they PM me I can add them

Ok I've finally finished the detailed and (mostly) to scale drawings of my Cloak/Cape pattern. I still need to work on the wording of how to describe everything for the cRL, but the pictures really help. I also have this cloak/cape available to order at my etsy shop now: https://www.etsy.com/listing/552714385/director-cloak-fine-twill-cotton-white
 

 

 
To see more of my commission work, check out my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/thecostumemakersguidetothegalaxy/
 
 
 
 

Yes I do allow for split payments! I had the opportunity to handle Magnoli's cloak, and it is made differently than what I've represented as my research findings for screen-accuracy. It mostly isn't their fault as it looks like they were trying to follow the original CRL requirements, which we've all shown in this thread have a lot of errors in the them. But they also decided to make their cloak from a 'heavy duty cotton' (looks to me like cotton canvas) rather than a lightweight cotton like the CRL says. I do make my cloak from a lightweight cotton twill fabric like the movie costume, and I did all my independent research to try to insure my pattern is as accurate as possible.

Slightly more expensive than magnolis, but I think I will go for yours if you allow split payments. I'll click you a pm here.