kman
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Posts posted by kman
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3 hours ago, Detaleader said:
So if I understand this correctly:
- Metal boxes have these cutouts simply by nature of the material
- Resin boxes have it to simulate the metal boxes
Therefore any box should have these, regardless of it being an Andor box or not, right? If that's the case, should we just specify it for any box, or leave out the specification at all?
So if you look at the construction of the metal non-saga belt boxes, what you're looking at is the edges of the folded metal "tabs" which are bent up to make a flat sheet of metal into a box.
Those aren't relief cuts, they're literally just the edges of the cut metal, coming together. (These obviously lack the pill detail, but that's not the point)
At some point after Rogue One, someone got tired of bending sheet metal into boxes and decided to 3D model the boxes instead, print them, and then cast them in metal-infused resin, so they could mass-produce lots of them, quickly, with little work. The metal content in the resin gives you an actual metal finish without resorting to terrible-looking paint, and yet can still have a mirror-smooth finish. That's what they use in Andor. (Some actually are painted, too, but they have both types) Close examination of a screen-used belt box showed clear evidence of 3D printing in some hidden areas, captured in the resin, making it clear how they were produced.
We're going to take a close look at the final language for how we want to phrase all of this should have something later this evening, we hope. (Might be tomorrow for some of y'all, as time zones are a thing)
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1 hour ago, Alay said:
Yeah the relief cut on the bend is what they're talking about
Is that a relief cut, or is it the edges of the metal when the "tabs" were folded up?
It's been a day and I'm pretty cross-eyed right now, so I don't trust myself at the moment...
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If we're basically encouraging 3D-printed belt boxes, let's be sure to require that there are no visible print lines and that it has a smooth metallic appearance indistinguishable from real metal or resin. Certainly for L2+.
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Based on that it's a 1 hour troop where you'll mostly be standing around and greeting people, so it's not a 5 mile parade.
If you're super worried, wear your boots around the house every day this week, and get a feel for them. (and DON'T wear double layers of socks) You should know by Saturday if you have any areas of concern.
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9 hours ago, Zealot23 said:
I have maybe worn them for a grand total of two to three days, and I was planning on wearing several layers of socks. And you said to tape my feet? What kind of tape exactly should I use?
Regardless of the boot problem, I am still both extremely nervous, and stoked for my first troop
Ron is correct, it really depends on the troop. Some you'll be walking the whole time, others you'll mostly be standing still, and occasionally walking 20 feet before you get stopped again for more pictures.
Lots of tape types will work to protect your feet from severe rubbing areas... probably a medical grade tape is ideal (the kind you would use to tape your wrists or ankles, or apply large bandages?), but I've even used duct tape once or twice and had it work out fine.
It's entirely possible you're overthinking this. The most likely worst case scenario is you'll get a blister or two, and live with it. They're uncomfortable for a few days, but heal up fine with no lasting harm. It's also entirely possible you won't have any issues at all, especially with two layers of socks.
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How thoroughly broken in are they, and how much have you worn them previously?
I thought my best boots were well-broken in until I marched a 4 mile parade route in them. Oof, those raw spots took forever to heal.
I'd say at a minimum, wear two layers of socks, first real run out. A thinner under-layer, and a thicker outer layer, tend to be best. Old school hiking techniques will do the trick .;) Outside of sheet tiredness, from unfamiliar movements, that's generally going to help with the biggest pain point.
If you know in advance there are some hotspots on your feet from the boots, you can pre-tape your feet in advance, to avoid injuries to those areas.
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8 minutes ago, Thrawndikebar said:
Great! I assumed they might not be the most comfortable boots in the world. But that might be a fair tradeoff for the price point. My only concern is some of the reviews say it's tight around the calf, but I suppose I can always return them if they don't fit. Thank you!
They're they're definitely on the slender side, around the calf, and being PVC rubber, they really don't stretch. (A tiny amount, I suppose, but you *really* don't want to troop with tight rubber bands around your legs just below your knees). And of course not adjustable in any way... they'll either fit, or they won't.
That's the nice thing about returns, of course. (You can usually find those boots on Amazon, too, btw)
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Yup. The Derby Ovation boots (those) are a popular starter boot.
I say "starter" because they're ... not fun to troop in for long. Pretty miserable in the heat... that rubber doesn't breathe at ALL, and the footbed is... meh. (I used to actually ride in a pair.)
But if they'll fit you, you can definitely be approved in them.
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23 minutes ago, Alay said:
I concur whole heartedly. I'm not even sure it ought to be a requirement there.
How about we instead make it "may"?
"Boxes may have a pill shaped detail in the top and bottom."
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49 minutes ago, chicken45 said:
You should not have any issues getting the color of the tunic approved. The biggest thing we’ve seen was the collars being too tall. They should be under 2 inches for Meero and Partagaz, and most of the others seem to be around 1.5.
@kman can you post those pics you did?I agree the color is fine. The fabric itself is not accurate (it should be a twill, ideally Cavalry but Gabardine is commonly accepted alternative, and his is neither), but that's not something we've called out in the CRL, so it'll still pass.
The other, perhaps bigger, issue was the topstitching on the collars that we saw in photos. I'm not sure if that was just a prototype and it was addressed later, or if they shipped that way, but that could be a bigger issue. I'm hoping this was just a prototype, and a non-issue.
The collar height may be an issue for many, as well, as Joshua notes. Meero and Partigaz had taller collars, just under 2", but a number of Tripon's collars have been measuring just over 2", which is supposed to be an absolute maximum... and frankly, outside of those two, nearly all (there are a couple odd exceptions, but still the vast majority) had 1.5" collars, and not the 2"+ that seems to be Tripon's preference for some reason. You could argue scaling but unless you well north of 6 feet tall, that's a tough sell.
Meero:
Partigaz:
And then there are almost all of the others:
Blevin:
Yularen:
Corv: (attendant, not ISB, but just for completeness)
Looking around the conference table and other group scenes in Andor Episode 4, it's pretty clear that the vast majority have 1.5" collars. And those few that do have taller collars, they're still at least a touch under 2".
It all boils down to the GML, in the end (as always). Some just simply won't care, or won't be attentive enough to notice. But others will.
Overall, we think Jim did a great job on these tunics. But there are a couple areas that miss the mark, too, which is frustrating, because if he had approached the detachment instead of going directly to an LMO who didn't catch this stuff, things would have been more straightforward.
- Ketchup and TripleFett
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On 5/5/2023 at 12:14 PM, DarthMother said:
Hi,
I plan to do the costume of Moff Tarkin and I will start with the boots.
Since I will get my boots customized I need to know what is best for Level 3 regarding the seams and other details. I might get the benefit to choose.
- In the added picture is different seams. If I can choose what is the best alternative for Moff Tarkins boots?
- In the picture the boots is slightly different in how shiny the leather is. Should the boots be high gloss or not?
- For the top of the boots "spanish" or flat, what is the best choice?
- For the back of the boots is a single seam or a overlock the best choice?
And my last question, so far, is if I have a chance to get approved as Moff Tarkin despite that I am short, and a woman? Is there a minimum length for him?
Thanks in advanced
from a Newbie
English is not my native language so I apologize if I have expressed myself strangely.
Sorry for the delay in responding.
Literally any of the boots pictured would be fully approvable.
If you're trying to be as exact as possible, I believe the pattern his boots used is closest to #3 and #4 (basically the same, both of those), perhaps the seams a little closer to #4.
The tops were fully flat, like in #2, but the seam is standard overlock construction (#2).
There's only two scenes with a remotely decent (albeit very dark) look at Tarkin's boots (and another at the conference table where you only get a quick flash of part of the sides), so we sort of have to go with other known boots, to extrapolate details, but from what we can see his boots still match the most commonly-used types seen on others, so that's pretty simple.
Scene 2 (later in the movie, actually, at Yavin)
Scene 1 (Alderaan):
Even lightening the photo doesn't help much. As the expression says "you can't squeeze blood from a stone".
The 501st does not discriminate as to sex or body type, so if you want to portray a Tarkin, that's 100% ok.
Hope all this helps!
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Safe to assume Robin snagged the last one?
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3 hours ago, TerekCyn said:
Hello there,
did some one know Whimsy CosPlay from etsy?
They offer a meassured uniform for a good price.
greetings
Are you referring to this costume?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1277396137/female-imperial-officers-uniform
or this?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1194944728/imperial-officers-uniform
The tunic construction is wrong on the female one ... they have three straight seams down the center of the back instead of the correct two princess seams construction called for in the CRL. The male one has the princess seams but is missing other required elements. The hat construction is missing required details as well. These glaring issues make them immediately suspect, in my book. I can't really tell any of the details of the fabric they've used, and it's nearly impossible to judge color without a reference. The accessories are all garbage. The pants pictured are all over the map... some of them look ok, others are bizarrely shaped. (not terribly hard to fix, but will require some sewing ability or a local tailor)
The price is good, but the costume soft parts (tunic, pants, hat), as pictured, are not approvable, even with replacing all of the accessories. IF the fabric is appropriate (again, can't tell) and they fixed the pattern problems, it might be a viable starter costume, but as listed, no, not without a substantial rebuild, which would require exact matching fabric and considerable sewing skills.
In sum: You could gamble on it, and be prepared to spend a fair amount with a local tailor to fix the issues (if they're fixable). But it's a gamble. Personally, I wouldn't.
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Ditto, if Robin passes, I'd love to know the price plus shipping to Los Angeles. (90017)
Also, do you have any photos of the final top pad? It's not clear in any of the photos here.
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6 hours ago, JynInDisguise said:
Well good news is I have black twill already so I should be able to get this going fairly soon. Need to fine tune my mock up but will then progress to documenting a build thread.
i noticed it was posted the dimensions for Andor boxes were updated but I have been unable to find the actual thread where it is stated. What are they and are there makers currently producing them? That would be my only area of concern on finalizing this build.
I believe @chicken45 responded in your other question thread, asking about them. I know BaileyBuilds makes them.
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On 3/2/2023 at 4:40 AM, Angelus said:
Star Wars: Visions:
https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Lop_%26_Ochō
Character : Ochō
White Tunic- Fabric is a medium weight suiting material matching the pants.
- On the Left side there is a Rectangle
- Tunic is double-breasted with a left over right closure on the tapered yoke.
- Yoke comes up across the shoulder to the top shoulder seam.
- The standing collar has square corners and is between 1.25" (31.8 mm) to 2" tall.
- Collar closes snugly and includes a modesty panel behind closure.
- Collar edges are closed with two eye hooks.
- There are code cylinder pockets on both outside panels of the jacket from about half way between the top and bottom on the arm hole.
- Sleeves are long, and without decoration, cuffs or buttons.
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Sleeves contain 2 seams.
- One along the bottom and one along the back.
- Tunic is constructed with no top-stitching (stitches visible on the exterior surface of fabric)
- Hook and eye fasteners on the uniform should not be visible.
Looks great, @Angelus!
One note, looking at the references and screencaps above:
It looks like there is NO code cylinder pocket on the left, and the one on the right is actually at the bottom of the start of the arm hole level, WAY lower than usual.
And I'm not sure if there is supposed to be an exterior chest pocket right below the rank bar position?
Thoughts?
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5 hours ago, chicken45 said:
It was decided that this costume will go to the Rebel Legion instead of the 501st.
And for clarity and the record, the LMOs decided this above our heads. Our request was rejected.
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I greenlit the addition last week, after re-watching the episode, and grabbing a bunch of screencaps and lightening them in Photoshop. They do have that expansion gusset seen in the non-saga TIE gloves. And smooth backs, not the 3-lined gloves of the OT TIE gloves.
- chicken45, Ammonites and Detaleader
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On 5/2/2023 at 8:50 AM, JynInDisguise said:
I’m about to start patterning and making this for myself. After making the prisoner uniform, I already have the templates and this actually looks easier considering the fabric. Has anyone said anything about fabric options? I’m leaning towards a Twill but I’m open to other options.
I'd agree it looks like a similar straight cotton twill along the same lines as the OT jumpsuits. Thank goodness it's not that nylon crap they used in the R1 jumpsuits. Definitely has a some weight and structure to it, and the same basic pattern as those OT jumpsuits, with the obvious addition of the action back (aka shoulder gusset? need to find the exact terminology for that).
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The left side bit looks an awful lot like a stormtrooper helmet's mic tips (Hovi tips). Yet slightly different, of course. *sigh* Agreed that the black section is too generic to really call out a source, although I sorta think that looks too smooth to be 3D printed unless they used SLA (entirely possible) or positively drenched it in XTC-3D or somesuch. Obvious callback to the Tomtit model parts used in the ANH version, but... not. The white area to the right, again, way too generic. Entirely possible it's all 3D printed. Clearly heavily inspired by the ANH comm that Luke and C3-PO used, but annoyingly just a bit different in each part. (WHY do they always feel the need to recreate the wheel?)
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39 minutes ago, chicken45 said:
I can pull for more screenshots, but the way the wind is blowing, we allow both OT and non saga gauntlets for basic approval, and the split version for L3 (like we have for the non saga grew and INTs).
The ANH Staff Officer allows gauntlets so, they are already floating around out there anyways.
The gauntlets used by ANH Staff (among other OT costumes) are very different from the ones I see that pic, so we'll have to look into what our options are. It would be especially good if we can actually find a vendor who carries this style.
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Do we have any better shots of this? I'd like to see something that shows the gloves more clearly (especially that split you mention), if possible, and have it here as a long term reference, if we're going to add it to the CRL.
Belt Boxes for Andor Series (Dedra, ISB Non-Saga, etc)
in CRL Updates
Posted
Understood. We're talking about different aspects of the same thing, though. I wasn't talking about the very corner bit, where there is a tiny relief cut to prevent corner puckering, I was talking about the actual edges of the metal, where you're literally looking at the thickness of the edges of the metal as it comes forward from the bend. That's the part that was made thicker when they 3D modeled it.
Had the box back been a solid piece of metal, and not had tabs folding forward, the metal would have needed relief cuts where the back "band" wraps around each corner, to replicate the look seen and generate those sharp edges, but that's not the case here, as the construction is different.