kman
-
Posts
5,255 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
276
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by kman
-
-
I'm enjoying watching this one come together!
Steph, which boots did you end up getting?
-
I agree, the color is hard to judge. Might be ok?
The worksmanship looks impressive... *IF* that's representative of the quality delivered.
Given that, though, I admit it's extremely strange that the pants' flares are so mediocre. They should pass, I'd think, but they really bring down what would otherwise be an extremely well put-together uniform. They're CosplaySky quality flares matched up with high end tailoring, which makes no sense. I wonder if the vendor would consider updating their pattern? Proper side flares aren't actually harder to sew than those bumps, it's simply a matter of getting the pattern right.
- Hask and RedneckRednick
-
2
-
I’ve been meaning to do one of these threads for a while now, and finally had a good excuse to make a new rank bar, so here goes.
Push button rank bars are the ideal. Screen-accurate, and just look way better than the cheap acrylic chip styles. And best of all, they can be hand made at home very inexpensively and with just a few basic tools! There are a LOT of photos here, detailing every step, but it’s a pretty straightforward process, as a whole.
There are also a LOT of steps here but don't be scared off... it's just because I broke each step to the nth degree, and a lot of steps are just double, triple, quadruple-checking measurement and alignment. This is all really simple stuff that nearly anyone should be able to do, and nothing more exotic than a hacksaw, sandpaper and an exacto knife (or something similar, even) is really required (plus glue, of course). And the hacksaw is probably optional, if you get the shop to do the first cut. Oh, and a ruler, of course.
HERE'S HOW:
Note: E6000 is the glue of choice. Know it, love it, use it. It takes 24 hours to cure, and I don’t recommend shorting that at ALL. BUT: I recommend starting the gluing either in the morning, so you can do some final manipulation in the evening, or in the evening, so you can do that final manipulation in the morning. (I usually just glue at night so I can tweak it in the morning, then let it finish curing through the day, and put it all together the next evening.)
Step one: The Buttons
Buy the appropriate push buttons for your costume.
TIP: See this thread for details on how and where they can be purchased:
Step two: The Bar
Buy a piece of aluminum stock. I prefer the 1/8” stuff, some people like the thinner 1/16” stuff. I just think the thinner stuff bends far too easily. You can get a long piece at Home Depot, Lowe’s, ACE, or really almost any hardware store. You can get 4’ of the stuff for around $10. That's quite a few rank bars, even if they're all the largest 6" size. So make some for a friend, or make yourself a variety so you can choose ranks like you pick socks for the day, LOL
Step three: Determine Size Needed
Figure out how long it needs to be, based on how many buttons you’ll be using, and how far apart they are. Add the same spacing on each end, and I usually add a millimeter or two of extra length, because it’s easier to sand a little more off than to add more, if anything happens during the finishing process. Especially if the end cut is not perfect. Rogue One buttons, as pictured below, should be 3mm apart. The smaller OT buttons should be about 1/4" (~6mm) between them. See the Imperial Rank Bar databank page for details. (Note: That page needs updating with Rogue One/Solo info... it's being worked on) I'm using millimeters in this guide... I find them easier to work with for measuring very small distances like this, and most rulers have both measurements anyway.
I do this by literally just setting the buttons on the bar, starting from the end, and measuring out along a ruler. Very simple. Mark a line somewhere where you need to cut.
Step four: Cut the Aluminum
To cut the aluminum, I just use a hacksaw in a miter box. Aluminum is really soft and easy to cut, but if you don’t have a hacksaw, most hardware stores will do at least one cut on for you, so plan ahead and bring your measurements. (Be sure to pad the numbers because they’re not usually super precise about their cuts!)
Step five: Rough sand the bar
Sand the ends down to the exact size you want, within about a millimeter. I use my bench grinder for this, but it can be done by hand with just some sandpaper if you don’t have one. Rough sandpaper is fine at this stage (100-200 grit, whatever), because you’ll be cleaning it up with finer sandpaper in the next step.
Step six: Fine finishing of the bar
Next we clean it up, get rid of any visible scratches (common with plain bar stock from big box stores, since aluminum is soft and it gets beat up a lot), and generally make it nice. For this I use a high grit sandpaper, like 500 grit, and use one that’s rated for wet sanding, because it gives a much better final product very easily. You want a nice perfectly flat surface for this… I use the counter of the bathroom or kitchen sink, because it’s an easy place to do it. The aluminum powder sanded off can then be washed away quickly and easily, and the counter tends to be a perfectly flat surface. (perfect another for this, anyway… as long as you’re not talking aerospace parts, it’s fine) Just put a little dribble of water on the sandpaper and scrub back and forth until it’s clean and smooth. Clean up the ends, too, while you’re at it. I don’t spend much time on the back, since it’s never seen, but sometimes I’ll hit it a little if I feel inclined.
Some like to use a straight edge to sand along so the lines are perfectly horizontal, but it the final finish is smooth enough, that’s not something I care about. Here’s the final bar, for this badge:
Step seven: Measure
I’m a big fan of measuring, measuring, measuring, at multiple times throughout this process, because you really want this as perfect as possible. Shortcut that if you want, but don’t blame me if your badges are less than perfect.
So I lay out the buttons, again, on the final bar, and double check everything lays the way I want, including the right amount sticking out on the sides.
Step eight: Button disassembly
Now we’re onto the buttons themselves. Remove the white inserts (just gently squeeze the legs and they should come right out).
Step nine: Button trimming
Next cut off those little legs. You can use any number of tools for this. I’ve used hot knives, utility / box knives Exacto knives, diagonal snips… currently my favorite method is the cutoff wheel on my Dremel:
Step ten: Button cleanup
Then I clean up the inside with the Exacto knife.
Cleaning up a lot doesn’t matter a whole lot, since its on the back and inside, but I’m a perfectionist that way. It does need to be perfectly cut away, though, so they lay perfectly flat. Extra plastic from the pins in the middle that make it rock back and forth is NOT what you want. Be careful not to take too much away… the covers clip in the middle indent, so that needs to be there, and you don’t want a big gap in the middle that lets the glue seep out, either. At the end, I take a couple of quick swipes on that wet sandpaper again… just a couple, though. You don’t want to remove much material here.
Step eleven: More measuring
Lay the inserts out on the bar again, and gently set the button covers on them so you can space them out and measure the distance again. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THE BUTTON COVERS ONTO THE INSERTS FROM HERE UNTIL THE VERY END!!! Without the legs, those inserts are a REAL b#$%* to remove.
Step twelve: Reference tape
Once everything is, again, laid out perfectly, use a strip of painters tape to carefully slide under the button covers (remember, they’re not pressed on, so they’re held a millimeter or two above the surface of the bar), flush against the inserts. This is going to be your alignment guide to make sure the inserts are perfectly positioned at the right height, so they’re nice and centered on the bar. (top to bottom)
Step thirteen: Double-check the line
Sanity check your tape alignment to make sure it’s nice and straight… it’s funny (not funny) how obvious a millimeter off looks, once everything is put together. The slant is a lot more obvious than you’d think. I tweaked the line just slightly after I took this photo, FWIW, since the left edge looks a hair lower than the right.
Step fourteen: Space out the buttons
Lay out the buttons covers out on their face AGAIN (upside down), on either a piece of paper, paper towel, or some other protective surface you don’t want glue on your nice dining room table, or even your workbench), carefully measured out, and with the inserts lightly placed inside. (REMINDER: BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THEM INTO THE COVERS!)
Step fifteen: Use tape to hold the button insert underside
Now the interesting part begins. Tape a piece of painters tape (I like 1” for this)and gently lay it onto the undersides of the inserts. You should be able to lift the inserts out and have them stay in the exact position they were in when you flip it over. Measure them all AGAIN and confirm everything is as straight as it should be.
Step sixteen: Use tape to hold the button insert from the top
Take ANOTHER piece of painters tape and lay it over the TOP of those inserts. Again, this should lock them into place and hold them nice and firmly. Give yourself a good extra inch or so on either side, because later you’ll want to wrap the ends around the bar to hold things in place.
Step seventeen: Release the button insert underside
Flip it over and remove the tape from the bottom, and you have all the covers nice and in place, ready for gluing.
Step eighteen: Fill the inserts with Glue
And now we glue. Use E6000 or similar slow cure, self-leveling glue. Fill each insert entirely, but be careful not to OVER-fill them.
Step nineteen: Top off the glue levels
Double check they’re completely filled, and add a little more if any corners aren’t fully filled, etc.
Step twenty: Apply the bar
Now remember that bar stock with the tape along the edge? Put that tape line right up against the buttons covers filled with glue. You should feel it easily when the tape line touches the inserts.
Step twenty-one: Flip the inserts and bar
Flip it over so the glue will go down and glue the inserts onto the bar. Double-check your alignment against that alignment tape, now that you can see it easier. You should see pretty clearly that they’re all neatly pressed against the tape reference line, and you’ll know they’re just where they should be as a result.
Step twenty-two: Remove the alignment tape and package it up for the night
At this point, once I’m sure everything is where I want it, I fold the ends of the top painters tape under the bar, to hold everything exactly in place. Remove the alignment tape and wrap it round the middle, like a belt holding it all together.
Step twenty-three: Walk away...
Leave it all out to cure overnight. You’ll want probably 10-14 hours of cure time before the next step.
Step twenty-four: Double-check alignment and measurements
After about 10-14 hours have passed, the glue will be about perfect for the next step. Too long and it’s hard to move things around, if small adjustments are needed. Too short a time, and things can just move out of place again. 10-14 hours is the perfect level of tacky but no longer slippery.
Carefully remove all the tape, and gently place the button covers on the inserts again, so you can truly measure the final positions. (don’t lock them on, remember!) While you CAN measure just the inserts, I find the nice sharp edges of the button covers area easier to measure, and the sharp lines make it more clear if anything is off.
Step twenty-five: More measuring checks
Remove the button covers and AGAIN make sure everything is aligned perfectly, and the measurements between each are perfectly consistent. Again, a half millimeter will be visibly obvious once it’s all done, so this is your last chance to fix things. If anything is off, you should be able to carefully push the inserts around as needed. The glue will allow movements without screwing anything up, at this stage. Be sure to use a straightedge to make sure everything is *perfectly* straight.
Step twenty-six: Glue cleanup
If any glue seeped out from under the inserts, now is the perfect time to clean it up. The glue is still soft enough to be easy to remove with an exacto knife, and not cured hard yet, but not so soft that it just squishes around under the blade. Be careful not to move anything around while you do this, but it should be fairly set in place, as long as you work gently. Cutting right along the edge of the inserts will scratch the bar, but not in a visible area, since the button covers will go over this area.
Step twenty-seven: Walk away again...
Now leave it somewhere safe and walk away for another 10-14 hours. The glue will cure more fully during this time, but it’s no longer so slippery that it’s likely to move out of place on it’s own.
Step twenty-eight: Attach the button covers
After a full 24 hours from the initial gluing has passed, all your work pays off. Visually look it over one last time, measure AGAIN if you want, and then you can proceed to snap the button covers fully onto the inserts, and enjoy your beautiful new rank bar.
Step twenty-nine: Apply the backing
The timing of the very last step is up to you. The glue SHOULD be pretty set at this point, but I still like to be careful (there’s a lot of glue in an enclosed space, in there). E6000 fully cures in 72 hours, so that’s my preferred time to proceed, but it really depends on how much of a hurry you’re in. I’ve done the last step sooner and been fine, just try to be gentle with the buttons a bit longer, and don’t leave them anywhere where anything is pressing on them.
But the last step is to attach whatever attachment method you’re using to the back. I use simple self-adhesive magnet bars from Amazon (see the DIY push button source thread linked at the top of this post). Just peel off the sticker backing and stick on the back of the rank bar, and you’re done. (I put something moderately heavy on top for a couple minutes to really stick the sucker on there) Some prefer push pins, which would need to be epoxied into place, but that’s all up to the end user)
Step thirty: There is no step thirty
Et fini. You're done.
Stick on your costume and rock that rank!
Happy Rank Bar making!
-
-
Good questions, Rudi.
I don't recall the black uniformed officers wearing trench coats. I vaguely recall that being added to the CRL as an appeasement at the time, before it was clear that all trenchcoat-wearers were actually wearing the green uniforms, so unless someone can provide a reference, this may be an opportunity to correct that. I'd love to hear more discussion on the subject, though, as long as it's actually referenced-based and not "but it seems like they should have it, too, because it's cool and I want to wear one!".
The V.G. is considered Canon, I believe, so that would be enough to include the SE14R, I believe. That said, yes, actual reference would be all the better, if someone can find something.
Regarding pants, I'm pretty sure all the OT-style jodhpurs are the same basic pattern. It just varies from person to person how exactly it sits, so you won't know how high they go under the tunic, and whether buttons, laces etc. are hidden under the boots, unless we get more good BTS shots, since we never see those details otherwise. More important is how the visible parts look, IMO. I don't really care if the pants come together one way or the other under the boots, because there's really no circumstance that would ever been seen. Ditto suspenders vs belt loops, unless people are doing extreme stunts on troops.
All that said, I don't make the final calls, but that's my input on those questions.
- shadan, lantern2745 and tarok
-
3
-
I don't there are any vendors who are mass-producing this as a costume available for sale off the rack, at this point. It's too new and there's not a high demand for it. You'll probably need to have a good custom tailor make one. There are several talented tailors who specialize in this sort of high end costuming... I'd reach out to MazCave and TheEmpiresNewClothes on Etsy... they can probably pull off an approvable version of this costume.
-
It's not entirely my call, of course, but this is actually a case where I would lean towards including measurements in the CRL itself. Far too many people (including vendors... present company excluded) won't bother to click through to a resource page (assuming it's even that easy).
We can think more on how to present it, however.
-
28 minutes ago, shadan said:
I agree @kman maybe we just put approximately 3mm? That still leaves some room to manoeuvre without being too anal about it.
I’m sure there could be some variation found somewhere in R1 but I’m unsure of the exact scene you mean, good reason to watch it again!
For most of my OT badges I’ve reigned the distance in a fair bit from 6.4mm based on my own calculations. Except for Veers of course! That badge is hard to get just right.
I'm on board with that.
-
49 minutes ago, shadan said:
Very good points @kman
I actually personally believe the distance is less than 3.5mm but I was attempting to give a little leeway. I want to be clear that I don’t know for an absolute fact that I’ve got the distance 100% right. I think it’s darn close though!
(Lots of screen grabs and aligning the badges with the known size of the tiles to extrapolate measurements :P)
I believe the distance is approximately 2.8mm
EDIT: I know this is getting a little petty. I just love rank badges lolI'm a big fan, too.
I don't think we need to get down to the 1/10th of a millimeter level. But if the correct spacing is actually roughly 3mm, we should use that figure in the L2 text. 6.5mm seems pretty huge... that should probably be reigned in a bit, unless we have an on-screen example of rank badges set significantly far apart like that. Even OT, with the exception of Veers, IIRC, most were in the same ballpark, at least.
I seem to recall seeing some badges (one of Krennic's in particular) where the spacing was pretty darned tight, but I don't recall offhand badges that were super spaced out. (again, I haven't checked this, though)
-
14 hours ago, shadan said:
That’s a good question! Let me have a try...
I’ve added the tile size to suit R1/Solo also. Sorry I don’t know inch fractions!
I feel leaving a range for the tile spacing at L1 allows a little freedom between makers, self-builders etc.
Just my thoughts on this of course.
(Sorry about formatting. I’m at work and using my iPad)- Worn on the left side of the tunic over the heart.
- Rank consists of colored plastic tiles mounted on a single metal or metal looking bar only
- The bar is 1" (25.4 mm) height.
- Rank tile dimensions may be either:
- 1/2" (12.7 mm)width x 3/4" (19 mm) height and about 1/8" (3.2 mm
- 15 mm width x 21 mm height and about 1/8" (3.2 mm)
- Tiles are mounted with approximately 2.5 - 6.4mm space between them.
- Rank tiles are translucent.
- Rank tile configuration may be from any licsensed source EXCEPT those ONLY seen in A New Hope.
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
- Rank consists of colored plastic push buttons mounted on a metal bar.
- Rank tiles are the larger Rogue One/Solo style (15 mm width x 21 mm height and about 1/8" (3.2 mm))
- Spacing between tiles to be no greater than 3.5mm
- Rank bar is a single row.
- Rank tile configuration must match those seen in Rogue One or Solo
Thanks for supplying that! I haven't paid so much attention to the newer styles compared to OT, so I would have had to work it out, and I'm sure you already have, as one of the better vendors out there.
As an aside: @lantern2745: Tile size should have the word "deep" or "depth" after the final measurement. Let's also add "OT size" after the first set of measurements, and "R1 size" (or words to that effect) after the R1 tile sizes, to make it more clear which people should be aiming for.
Reading between the lines, @shadan, am I to surmise that the ideal spacing is approx 3.5mm, but you're giving a range? Or does the spacing vary from rank to rank?
I think we should state what the measurement SHOULD be, and note that anything from X to Y is acceptable (at the basic level), just so the various makers (and DIYers) know what they should be shooting for (assuming there is a consistent number... I assume 3.5mm is that number, since that's what we list in L2?), and to give the best consistency among members. Otherwise people are going to guess wrong, and lazy vendors will go with what's easiest instead of what's best, and the resulting badges will be all over the place. (which is allowed, but hardly ideal... it's so easy to provide a clear specific target here while we're creating this for the first time) We still have the "approximately" in place even at L2, to hopefully prevent GMLs from breaking out their micrometers.
-
-
2 hours ago, lantern2745 said:
I wonder if the top of the tunic is supposed to be like High Moff Morlish Veed with armor up there?
It looks a little like that in the last panels, but I don't think it does in the first ones.
-
Oh yeah, that's a MUCH better reference. I didn't even realize that was a cog on the center chest, it's so stylized in the earlier examples! LOL
And yes, based on the new reference I'd agree those are code discs on the collars.
-
Frankly, if you own all those comics, you're a better judge than I. Just make sure to document every decision with examples, and try to get the one that best exemplifies what you're showing it to be. And try to make sure there aren't other references that contradict it!
I think you're understanding me correctly, about the chest panel. CRL language will likely need more massaging, but you're working directly from references, so there's going to be some interpretation of what we're seeing.
-
I'd want to see more references, as to those discs on the collar being code discs. That detail is clear on the hat, but not the collar. Might be considerably simpler, for the collar.
I agree on the boots and jodhpurs being standard OT style.
Figuring out that disc in the center of the uniform chest will likely need more references, too.
The collar is completely closed, moreso that just a modesty panel.
The upper part of the tunic appears to be an entirely separate panel, sort of like Galen Erso's Tarkin Initiative / Imperial Scientist has a different panel. (Very different design, though, I'm just using that to illustrate the true panel separation, rather than a mere seam)
And that first image shows something odd with the back of the hat. Not clear if it's just artistic whimsy in that one frame, or a slightly different design in back. We'd need to see more references to be sure, I'd think.
-
1 hour ago, lantern2745 said:
Someone was looking at doing the Rebels Controller costume a year or so back. I'm sure it could be 3D modeled/printed. Trick would be to get a good fit to the ole cranium.
- Jeff
It's tricky modeling, but if someone skilled enough models it, sizing is the easy part. (Prints can be scaled very easily!)
-
I'm super excited by the Controller option. The costume itself is pretty boring, actually, but the Lobot headset would be awesome. (especially for those of us who shave bald!) Assuming someone actually makes them, at least. That'll be the tricky part.
-
First Order! Very rare costume.
I'm more partial to the Lieutenant / Captain, but otherwise, the Teal is solid.
Transport would be funny, I agree, but that costume just doesn't sit well with me. Too on the nose from the inspiration for comfort.
- Duchessina and Steven
-
2
-
8 hours ago, ImperialDirector said:
Never attended a Star Wars celebration before, sounds exciting to do
Usually attend Supernova, Comic Con, small regional comic events
and other events within
Melbourne and Sydney Australia.
SW celebration would certainly be a different experience for me to seeHope to meet you in SoCal for 2022.
-
I agree with Jeff. Looking at the one photo of their actual products, the pants are not remotely the correct sequel trilogy-style construction, and it looks like they have an awful lot of satin in the jacket, for a costume that should be all gray wool.
-
18 hours ago, HumeTony said:
thank you so very much for taking the the time, this helps a great deal and I understand the entry level vs level 2 and 3 and look forward to it all! thank you !
Always happy to help.
-
On 6/19/2020 at 2:23 PM, HumeTony said:
good day friends, Prospect Tony (HumeTony) Hume here. Resident of North Georgia, USA.
Vintage SW toy collector and have decided it's time to join the 501st, if you'll have me.
I'm most interested in the Imperial Officer (Black) and need some assistance, please, being pointed in the right direction for costume assistance.
https://cossky.com/collections/star-wars-1/products/star-wars-imperial-officer-uniform-costume-deluxe-version-new
I have the above link and am curious if this is an approved beginning to my journey?
Thank you very much.CosplaySky has a number of web domains that all sell the same thing. (in fact the title of that very page you linked says CosplaySky at the end LOL)
I would usually recommend just ordering from the main company's website, on general principle:
https://cosplaysky.com/star-wars-imperial-officer-uniform-costume-deluxe-version-new.html
(You'll note the price, name, and photos are all the same anyway)
CosplaySky CAN be a very good vendor, for an unbelievable price. Or they can be a bit of a nightmare. I joke that every 3rd day at the factory is "Drink a bottle of rum day" so depending on which day you order, you either get an excellent suit with perfect measurements, or something that looks like someone grabbed cuttings from the Small, Large, and XXL table, just to see if they could stitch them all together.
If you're very lucky, you get a great costume that fits like a glove, and you're off on a great start. Else perhaps it just needs some relatively minor alterations from your local tailor shop to improve the fit here and there, and then you're in good shape. My Staff officer is from CosplaySky and I was in that second category. Note even on their best day, their costumes are not in the same class as a good custom made job from a real tailor using high end wool gabardine, etc. But they're not bad at all, as long as they fit you well, and only minor tweaks are needed to give you as costume you can take all the way to Imperator, if you wish. (I did with mine, as have others)
OTOH, if you draw the short straw, you get a neckline you pull over a 4-year old child, arms designed for a 10 year old child, and a waistline and pant legs made for a 300lb man. Then you get to try to return it. (Pay close attention to their return policy... if you buy the off-the-rack sizes and it doesn't fit you right, you're stuck with it, no matter how off it seems)
You can roll the dice with off the rack sizes if you want (it's your money), or pay a bit extra for custom sizing. There's still a chance they'll get it wrong, but at least you can exchange it for a second try (and another month wait for a new shipment) if they get it so wrong it can't be fixed locally.
I *highly* recommend the custom sized route via their "501st custom" option. And read over this thread.... even their custom size option only asks for a few measurements... far too few to be able to correctly size what is basically a fitted suit. You should provide all the extra measurements discussed in this thread to give yourself the highest chance of getting them what they need to make a suit that actually fits you as it should:
(The full list of extra measurements are buried in this thread a bit, but it's worth reading through at least a dozen pages or so)
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!
-
20 hours ago, HumeTony said:
Kalani, kind sir, thank you so very much for the informative reply and I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. This is my first dip in to the 501 pool and I appreciate you taking the time!
That's what we're here for!
I look forward to seeing everything come together for you!
-
Where are you located? A little more information will help us give recommendations.
Star Wars Legacy Officer
in New CRLs
Posted
Not a bad first effort (afters skimming this), but we'll need to go over it in detail... once there is a costume.
We have to have a costume made before the CRL can be written, in case you didn't know how the process works in the 501st. Until someone actually makes the costume and offers all up the detailed photos needed, a CRL cannot be approved.