kman
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Posts posted by kman
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2 hours ago, Maximusgoobe said:
This is the best concise explanation of the difference between cosplay and costuming I've seen, mind if I borrow it occasionally? When I try to explain the difference, I usually trip over my tongue.
Go for it.
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45 minutes ago, RanceDojo said:
Kman,
Yes. I was under the impression that the CRL wasn't complete as yet.
It's posted (and has been for at least several weeks, because I was looking at a few weeks ago), so I guess they got it finished.
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1 hour ago, RanceDojo said:
Thank you, Sirs. I'm thinking about doing an officer's uniform to serve as a dress uniform for my TIE pilot...you know for the requisite tedious parties where everyone stands around with a drink in their hand and endeavors to think of something witty to say...
"Nice weather we're having."
"We're in hyperspace, you know."
"Oh. Right."
I got the idea for this from the 181st guys who have a pilot kit and are trying to come up with CRL's for a dress uniform using artwork from issues of X-Wing Squadron featuring Baron Soontir Fel.
I'm guessing Captain would be an appropriate rank for a pilot.
Do you mean the 181st Dress Uniform CRL, that's already present the under the JRS:
http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TI_181st_dress_uniform
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1 hour ago, Rane said:
Thank you all for the advice. I ordered a MR hat from ebay, should get here within the next couple of days. I hope it fits my giant noggin.
Hopefully you ordered the right size. MR hats run notoriously huge. L is more like XL, and XL only fits those with actual gigantism in their medical report. (Andre the Giant would probably fit an XL nicely)
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Agreed. It looks like they did a very nice job (although you'd have to take their word on the measurements being accurate, until you have it in hand), but that price is VERY high. For that kind of money, make your own pushbutton rank bars (only needs a handsaw, sandpaper and glue).
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5 hours ago, Hertz said:
I would like to get introduced to cosplay
We don't usually consider what we do to be "cosplay", per se. The rules and guidelines established by the 501st to ensure unity don't necessarily need to be followed by someone who just wants to wear a costume at Cons and messing around with friends. The expense involved in going ultra-accurate is a probably a lot higher than you're going to want to get into. Unless you DO have aspirations to join the 501st, and are willing to spend what it takes to get an accurate costume?
CosplaySky is one of the cheaper vendors who produces relatively accurate costumes. Their belt and hat are not acceptable for the 501st, but you may not care if you're playing at Cosplay rather than reaching for higher accuracy levels. Boots tend to be the most expensive part, but again, if you're not planning to join, the cheap tall black Halloween boots (Funtasma) will convey the general idea. Then just get a rank bar from someone on Etsy (not necessarily 501st acceptable, but fine for playing) and you're set.
- Christina, crazyjediman24 and MichaelK
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Are you planning to troop with the 501st, or just wear a costume for fun?
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^^ This is correct.
Note, however, that CS has been having a miserable track record at delivering orders made to the size ordered, lately. We're not sure what's up. But it may be something of a crap shoot, even with custom measurements provided.
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Those really aren't the right kind of dosimeter, though. Unless you're planning to tear them down and rebuild the right kind around them, in which case you may as well start with chalk holders.
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8 hours ago, Jacen66 said:
Well this is a little anoying, I have a sixth being sewn in.
There are plenty of examples with 6. This is news because it's the first (and only, so far) example with 5. 6 was more common, so you're in good shape.
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7 hours ago, Mollins said:
I'm afraid I do not, best I'd be able to do is judge them against my partner's antique riding boots for his RotJ Luke
That'd be something, at least.
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4 hours ago, daddymock said:
Is there a tutorial about how to apply the "heat and bond" as far as how much to put on and location?
Also, the stuff I've purchased in the past tends to come with instructions, for the actual application.
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1 hour ago, daddymock said:
I tried them on and even though they have that "bootcut" problem I wadded them into my boots with the help of a butter knife. I think I will still take them to a tailor and have the excess cut off and some stirrups sewn on to keep them down. As far as the droop, does anybody have a brand name of the iron on material to buy or can I get buy with dry cleaning with heavy starch?
If there are any sewing shops (Joann's, etc.) near you, just walk in and ask for "iron on interfacing". Light weight or medium weight (max), IIRC. They'll know what to point you to.
That's all I've ever done, so I honestly have no idea what the brand name is, if you have to order online because no retail options.
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CosplaySky is definitely the best bet for the least expensive entry, but bear in mind that sometimes their tailoring is VERY off, even with the custom option. I would go into it planning to have have possibly significant tailoring done to the costumes, even with the custom option.
You'll need a hat to match either. The Line Officer color is nearly impossible to match, so you have to buy extra fabric for that, and have one custom made (unless you're capable of doing it yourself) which adds to cost considerably. The Staff officer's basic black is much easier to match, and there are a number of Vendors who can make black hats for you. (and if you're really lucky, your hat size might fit the Disney Store black officer hats which are super inexpensive)
The Ovation Derby boots and chalk holder cylinders round out the "budget" options to just barely squeaking past basic approval. (Along with TiggWolf's rank bars and belt, which are inexpensive enough that it's truly hard to beat her price even making it yourself, unless you already have the leather.)
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Installing a zipper into boots is expensive. Between stretching and zippers, making so many major alterations to a good pair of boots is rapidly going to put you into the range where those "$300 custom and done" boots would be a better option. There's only a $70 difference between the stock Hessen boots and the custom ones. Doesn't take long to eat up that margin (and make perfectly good level 3 boots much worse), if you have to make a bunch of alterations to the stock boots.
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55 minutes ago, DarthFunk83 said:
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I ordered the Deluxe Imperial officer uniform from CosplaySky, and got the typical incorrect flare in the jodhpurs. Do I require extra material (fabric) to get them tailored to the right shape? If so, how much more do you think Ill require?
Not possible to make them actually "accurate". There isn't enough material to let it out, and "adding" material would mean there would be a seam where there shouldn't be any seams. You'd have to have your tailor sew a whole new pair of pants from that fabric.
Generally, don't worry about it. If it's especially bad and pointy, you can have the curve smoothed a bit (taken in). Otherwise, just add the iron-in interfacing so they're not droopy, and you should be fine.
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2 hours ago, skelitor120 said:
Definitely got hosed, then. I paid about 150$ for my Denix Mauser 1896, but that was a few years ago.
Ouch. I paid $80 for my last one, WITH the real wood grips. eBay.
Just googling "Denix mauser" I found it for $65 (with the plastic grips, which aren't bad at all): http://www.discountcutlery.net/DX1024-Denix-Mauser-Broom-Handle-Pistol-1896-Model_p_34675.html
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40 minutes ago, Mollins said:
I have ordered a pair of these, custom made to my measurements, so when they arrive I will be able to let folks know the quality of them
You don't by chance know anyone who has Hessens, do you? I'd love to see a side-by-side comparison.
Just for general info, that is. I already have Hessens that fit well, so I'm set, personally.
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3 hours ago, skelitor120 said:
Speaking as someone who's hobby revolves around Airsoft-- If you can find a "metal" Mauser for 15$, don't buy it. There's no mauser in the world that's metal and worth only 15$. The one I had linked is a UKArms mauser, which is a super plastic-y and brittle mauser that quite frankly does not make a good airsoft gun even as a toy, and that one's worth 15$.
Full-metal replicas Mausers cost around 150-200$ and a full-metal Airsoft mauser costs 120-150$
No, the full-metal Denix Mauser replica, standard in the DL44-variant prop industry, runs about $80. Nowhere near $150 unless you're being hosed.
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10 hours ago, TI56214 said:
That's great thanks, will do
maybe I sent google search link, here was the one I was talking about. ( I like to convert my own items)
would this one with with - metalic painted top and modern clip be approved ?
If you paint the top blue, it might do for basic approval. You may want to check with your GML to be sure. But those can be modified using StrongBow's tutorial (linked the post above) to be quite nice. I was approved with them, initially, before I upgraded to Philo's.
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1 hour ago, Thubin said:
Thanks everyone, I'm going to put in an order today or tomorrow with wampawear and get it tailored. Their sizing is close to me, other than minor fixes here and there.
One other question: are the vinyl patches wampawear offers the correct patches, or should I get the suit clean and buy the cogs elsewhere?
Wampa's patches are good to go.
Consensus seems to be the white cogs are the way to go. Silver is deprecated, and rarely used, so you would stand out (not a good thing in the faceless Imperial military) compared to the others if you go with Silver.
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3 hours ago, nocternus said:
The pockets on most are stitched closed which is a common thing for suits/waistcoats so its just a matter of cutting the thread to open them, the pockets themselves are deep enough to hold the cylinders
My code cylinder pockets are just shallow enough to be a problem... the pockets don't go quite deep enough. The code cylinder sticks out just far enough that the clip (which isn't very strong) doesn't keep it in place well, necessitating frequent adjustment. I've read others have had this issue as well. Apparently pretty simple to open the seam at the bottom of the pocket to let it go deeper. I just haven't done it yet because it's really close, and while occasionally annoying, so far it hasn't annoyed me badly enough that I've made the effort to get the seam ripper off the shelf.
But yes, if he meant just opening a pocket that's sewn too far closed, like they often do with normal suit coats, I concur, that's simply a matter of carefully cutting the threads, just as on on a regular suit.
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3 hours ago, BensID39999 said:
Here is my tutorial on how to fix cosplaysky's jodhpurs. Feel free to ask any questions you'd like. Don't settle for "bag pants" when you can tailor them at home!
That fixes pant legs that are too big, but not the shape of the "flaps", which I think is what the OP was concerned about.
I like your back pocket mod, though... I'll have to give that a try!
Generally what's needed to fix the flaps is not possible without a lot of extra seam allowance to entirely reshape the curve. Adding in iron-on interfacing, however, will help them to not sag, which goes a long way towards helping their appearance.
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3 hours ago, stasijane said:
Has anyone cut the stitching on the hidden pocket for the code cylinders yet? I tried looking to see if anyone mentioned that but didn't see anything. I am about to do it on my uniform and figured I better ask if there is anything I need to be careful on. Thanks.
You mean to make a shallow pocket deeper?
I plan to, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I know others have done so, and I don't recall reading about any particular red flags, so that should be pretty straightforward. I think.
Catalyst
in The Officer's Lounge
Posted
Agreed. Having read Catalyst really enhanced my understanding of what was going on in the movie, as I watched Rogue One. Frankly, I find it hard to believe that anyone who HASN'T read it is really grasping what all is going on, in the early parts of the movie.