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kman

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Posts posted by kman

  1. 1 hour ago, Tarkin0172 said:

    I'm not sure what is reflected in URL's as far as the placement of zippers...only that I know that it is not screen accurate to have zippers on the inside of the boots.  Heck, for that matter, it's not screen accurate to have a zipper period.  But if it were my boots I would want the zipper up the back...only because that was the method used on authentic boots...if a zipper was used at all.  Plus it's just more pleasing...to my eyes anyway. ;)

     

    Zipper cannot be on the back, per the CRL:

     

    " If zippers are present, they are hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft.

    • Not visible from the front, side or back. "
  2. 9 hours ago, skelitor120 said:

     

    Exact same story for me. Bought bootsin my size, came too small, had to get them stretched and still barely fit.. They work just enough to put on, so maybe I can get my costume approved with them, but they're definitely not suitable for repeated use.

     

    Hey, what size are your boots? Maybe we can trade! :-P

     

    Heh.  Sorry, I've already sold the small ones (10), and had my replacements (11) stretched.  I'm all set.  Just need to find time to bring out my green screen and take my Level 3 photos...

  3. 5 hours ago, Maroth said:

    Yeah Hessen is what I was looking at. I heard the sizing is a bit tricky if you're not careful. I'll look at Ovation Derby as well.
    Thanks everyone!

     

    Sizing on the regular boots is kinda tricky, primarily because, near as I can tell, the website is WRONG when it says they run large.  If anything, they run small.

     

    Sizing on the custom made ones, however, should not be tricky, since it's custom made to your measurements.

     

    I kinda wish I had just gone custom, considering I bought too small and took a loss on selling them, and then still had to stretch the ones that were the right size (right for my feet, still too tight on my legs).  Given what I spent, cumulatively, I easily could have gone custom and saved a lot of hassle.

  4. 4 hours ago, Maroth said:

    Agreed, I found some that range in the 300's and up. I'm working on a retail income budget so that's a bit steep. Faux leather looks decent in my opinion and cheaper, yet all the ones I found had buckles, designs, stretch tabs, laces---Everything the 501st warns against. I'm tempted to go PVC but again I am wary of it looking too rubber like and not passing the application.

     

    I hate to say it, but the Ovation Derby PVC boots definitely pass. (basic)

     

    For $300, you can get the custom sized officer boots from Hessen that are 100% perfect.  Less if you can score a coupon or catch a sale.  Steep, I know, but it's still nice to know that it won't be any worse than that, at least.

  5. When they refer to "super hero" boots, unfortunately what they are referring to is there: Boots where there is a raised part in front of the knee, and lower in the back.

     

    Normal (traditional) Equestrian boots, that are preferred, are flat all the way around the top.  They make an exception for the second most common type of equestrian boot, where the "rise" or raised lip is on the outside of the leg.  That's the "Spanish style" top that you see discussed in the CRL. (on the left)

     

    ID_Officer_Boots.jpg

     

    But boots with a pronounced rise like this in the front, are not correct.

     

    Boots are the hardest part of this costume, unless you have the budget for the real thing from the start.

  6. 2 hours ago, LieutenantGarin said:

    Yeah they're too long horizontally but with the correct 1" height . Might a fine-tooth handsaw be sufficient to trim them? As that's all I would have available in my small apartment. They are 1/8" thick. Good Rogue One suggestion, perhaps I can set one aside for a future RO lieutenant.

     

    Aluminum bar stock is very soft.  A hand saw (better yet a hacksaw, if you have one or can borrow?) should be able to slice right through, then clean it up with sandpaper.

  7. 1 minute ago, DonnyD68 said:

    I just assume that with washing, patches always seem to get the worst of the wear. It has worked wonderfully with my Stargate, Battlestar Galactica and S.H.I.E.L.D. costumes. Just trying to help. I f my suggestion is wrong, then I apologize

     

    Oh, it's totally fine for basic approval, and an effective technique, to be sure.  I've used it in a number of places, just not here.

     

    For those who like to go for higher levels, or simply be more accurate, it's good to have all the info on hand so an informed decision can be made, whether it's "screw the higher levels, I just wanna troop" or "bring on the ruler and judge my accuracy!" LOL 

     

    Re-reading the OP, it seems they're looking at this for a TIE Pilot, which is a different detachment entirely. Not sure why it's posted in the IOC forums, under the circumstances... although that uniform is very, very, VERY similar to our Bridge crew uniform.  But the JRS CRL for TIE Reserve/Pilot also requests the vinyl patches instead of embroidered.  So the same questions would apply, I suppose.
     

    For level two certification (if applicable):

    • Imperial patches on the shoulders are printed vinyl rather than embroidered.

    At any rate, there's the info, so decisions can be made. :)  Happy trooping!

  8. On 12/27/2016 at 4:35 PM, DonnyD68 said:

    Just a suggestion, but you could apply an equally sized circle of sticky Velcro to the patch (The sticky part) and sew the softer side, same circle size to your uniform. This would allow for you to remove the patches when you want to wash your flight suit, which will add years of life to your patches. That is what I am planning on doing with mine anyway. Just a suggestion. I learned this from my Stargate SG-1 cosplay and costuming friends.

     

    Is that approveable for upper levels?  That's a really old trick for military patches, and there's no doubt that it works, but it does make the patch "stand out" a little more, and might make it look more like the regular embroidered patch instead of the iron-on vinyl patch that lays practically flush on the fabric.  The material would be different between the two, but the overall appearance of a patch "sewn" on is not what they're looking for.  (at least, that's my impression)

     

    I'd be curious to see leadership weigh in on this.  While going with Velcro sticks with the letter of the CRL, I'm not so sure it's true to the intent / spirit.

     

    For level three certification (if applicable):

    • Imperial patches on the shoulders are printed vinyl rather than embroidered.
  9. I really like the pattern and build quality.  But I just can't get over that fabric.  It's terrible.

     

    The premiere line is pretty awesome.  But I can't behind the Standard line fabric.  And the premiere line is crazy priced ($1500), compared to having known excellent vendors custom make the whole thing to my measurements (for the $500 price of the standard line).  No way I'd fit off-the-rack sizes without needing still more alterations, on top of the crazy price.

  10. On 12/24/2016 at 11:10 AM, DaddySolo said:

    Yes, the yellow is no longer correct (I found that out the hard way) but after pouring through the data sheet, I managed to track down the correct yellow/amber with correct translucency-    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EAO/01-9824/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugJQkOXgo8J7Hu02QLfqPp8Ji4joKUbjIM%3d

     

    I'm having a hard time uploading pics ATM, but they are the correct size/color.(think Chief Bast)

     

    THANK YOU!!! I have a bunch of red and blue sitting in a drawer, but I haven't been able to get the right yellow (amber) ones since Newark stopped carrying them!

     

    This like is for the ANH accurate 01-901 amber buttons, right?  If so, I'm ordering these TODAY!

  11. 5 hours ago, Dimentex said:

    Interested - but waiting to see more.  One of our guys got one, looks a little better than the photo above
    15589828_10206442556057335_5508561388929

     

    Isn't the notch supposed to point up?

     

    Looks like a decent hat, otherwise.  Can't really judge proportions from that angle, of course.

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