kman

As long as it's correctly tailored to fit you well, there usually isn't a lot that's needed.  (I'm assuming the version that ticks off the 501st requirements was chosen)
 
Sometimes the flares need to be toned down a bit, and stiffening helps, but that's mostly cosmetic stuff.
 
Adding stirrups, if they don't have them, definitely helps with the fabric bunching at the knees, as Bob noted.
 
Sometimes the collar is pretty miserably floppy... they be stiffened to make it *always* nice and crisp, pretty easily: I took a regular dress shirt that I had bought, and you know that clear plastic stiffener they put under the collars to keep everything nice and crisp in the package?  I slid that out, and had a long roughly 1" strip of flexible (but kinda stiff-ish) clear plastic.  I cut a small slit hidden on the inside of the collar, near the regular opening, and slid the band inside to stiffen the collar, working it all the way around to the other side, and trimmed it to size.  A little hand stitching closed up the slit and you'd never know it's there... except my collar stays beautifully crisp. (Be careful washing it, though!)

Update:
 
The UPS guy with my BBB from Denuo Novo arrived a little while ago.  I'm initially extremely pleased with the uniform.  Note, I don't have the wrinkles and stuff out of it yet, and I didn't do all the snaps and hooks for this quick snapshot.
 
My measurements were smack in the middle of the Denuo Novo chart for XL on both pants and tunic.  I had considered going up a size on the tunic as I often have an issue with any coat or jacket that turns out to be unexpectedly undersized, but I am SO glad I didn't.  Next size up would have been way too large; next size down wouldn't have been roomy enough.  My main concerns were the chest fit and my wide shoulders.  But as you can see from the photo the shoulders and chest are perfect.  And it feels just right while wearing it, too, and I have the same amount of arm movement I'd expect in any suit coat.  The sleeves might be just a hair long but, again, I don't have everything snapped and I only have a T shirt on underneath, so they may be hanging a little low.  Still, the sleeves are about the same as the sport coat I wear most frequently.  (Full disclosure: You need to put a gun to my head to get me to dress up, so I don't wear a sport coat often.)
 

 
I knew that Anovos tunics never had an inside breast pocket and was hoping that DN would add one, but they haven't.  Oh well.
 
As to the pants, I might have been able to to step down one size, as these are loose around the waist.  My wife can take those in for me with no issue.  Again, DN has not added pockets in the pants, although I knew that Anovos didn't have pockets either.  Really would have liked pockets.  On a side note, I've lost 20 about pounds this year and I've been successful in keeping it off.  I'd also like to lose another 10 pounds, so I may just spring for the next smaller size pants while they're readily available and from the same lot, just to have on hand.
 
The hat is a bit disappointing.  It's the right size and fits fine, but it feels "odd" on my head as someone else had mentioned, and I don't like the way those bumps on the sides stick out so far.  Those side bumps don't look too bad here because of the way my head is tilted, but they really do stick out.  Those side bumps look exactly like in the photos on the DN website.  After wearing the hat for a while, though, the general fit and those bumps may even themselves out.  But I have to say, my black Wampa Wear hat for my Bridge Crew/TIE Reserve fits better, looks better, and feels better on my head.
 
I haven't yet gotten Sally's uniform out of the closet to do a side-by-side overlap comparison of the color, but the color of this uniform looks exactly right to me.  Unless you're mixing Anovos/DN parts in the same uniform, I don't think there's enough difference, if any, to worry about.
 
So, to summarize this thread, the fit of the Denuo Novo officer uniforms is about as spot-on to their sizing charts as you could expect for mail-order clothing.  The tunic is about perfect for me (YMMV), and the pants maybe a tad large, but I couldn't be more pleased.
 
A.J.

Standard procedure is to be pretty liberal with what's allowed for basic approval.  Pretty much any riding boot that would pass for any Imperial officer is going to work, there.  Zippers are already allowed inside, for basic, on all the CRLs... that's not going to change, but neither will we *require* them at basic, even though we obviously know they're there.
 
We haven't decided yet if we'll be *requiring* the zipper at L2 or L3.  One of those, in all probability.  And I suspect the buckle/flap will be an L3 detail, as was done with Krennic.  (the first time boots with these details showed up)

Thank you. This is very sound reasoning. There's a number of folks in our garrison who wish to do this costume and have been trying to figure out this shade. This guidance helps a great deal. (We are including our GML in our discussions.) And, I love your guidance of white with a hint of gray, as I think that describes it perfectly.

It's a light gray ... that's so light it appears white.  I am familiar with non-color corrected raw source material as well, which is far as I go without messing with my NDA.
 
From a CRL perspective, if we call it gray, no matter how light, people are going to go GRAY, and we end up getting into fights with GMLs over... shades of gray.
 
I think we still need to call it white, else we get into No True Scotsman areas.

If you want to use "white with a hint of gray" for your tunic, no one is going to say boo about it.

It's a light gray ... that's so light it appears white.  I am familiar with non-color corrected raw source material as well, which is far as I go without messing with my NDA.
 
From a CRL perspective, if we call it gray, no matter how light, people are going to go GRAY, and we end up getting into fights with GMLs over... shades of gray.
 
I think we still need to call it white, else we get into No True Scotsman areas.

If you want to use "white with a hint of gray" for your tunic, no one is going to say boo about it.

It's a light gray ... that's so light it appears white.  I am familiar with non-color corrected raw source material as well, which is far as I go without messing with my NDA.
 
From a CRL perspective, if we call it gray, no matter how light, people are going to go GRAY, and we end up getting into fights with GMLs over... shades of gray.
 
I think we still need to call it white, else we get into No True Scotsman areas.

If you want to use "white with a hint of gray" for your tunic, no one is going to say boo about it.

The collar difference are no optical illusion.  Partagaz' collar is laying against the front of his chest, while Meero's is literally on top of her shoulders... you can see clearly in the small shots above, showing her from the side.
 
They're different size people wearing different size jackets, but those jackets are not off the rack S-M-L sizes, rather, they've been tailor made to fit the individual specific actors as their "size".  So which layout is correct?  There clearly is no correct, there's a correct range.

There's certainly a base pattern they use for background characters that don't warrant tailoring, but any way you shake it, there's definitely lots of wiggle room in the design.

Enjoy.
 
 

I’ve been meaning to do one of these threads for a while now, and finally had a good excuse to make a new rank bar, so here goes.
Push button rank bars are the ideal.  Screen-accurate, and just look way better than the cheap acrylic chip styles.  And best of all, they can be hand made at home very inexpensively and with just a few basic tools!  There are a LOT of photos here, detailing every step, but it’s a pretty straightforward process, as a whole.
 
There are also a LOT of steps here but don't be scared off... it's just because I broke each step to the nth degree, and a lot of steps are just double, triple, quadruple-checking measurement and alignment.  This is all really simple stuff that nearly anyone should be able to do, and nothing more exotic than a hacksaw, sandpaper and an exacto knife (or something similar, even) is really required (plus glue, of course).  And the hacksaw is probably optional, if you get the shop to do the first cut.  Oh, and a ruler, of course.
 
HERE'S HOW:
 
Note: E6000 is the glue of choice.  Know it, love it, use it.  It takes 24 hours to cure, and I don’t recommend shorting that at ALL.  BUT:  I recommend starting the gluing either in the morning, so you can do some final manipulation in the evening, or in the evening, so you can do that final manipulation in the morning.  (I usually just glue at night so I can tweak it in the morning, then let it finish curing through the day, and put it all together the next evening.)
 
Step one: The Buttons
 
Buy the appropriate push buttons for your costume.  
 

 
TIP: See this thread for details on how and where they can be purchased:
 
Step two: The Bar
 
Buy a piece of aluminum stock.  I prefer the 1/8” stuff, some people like the thinner 1/16” stuff.  I just think the thinner stuff bends far too easily.  You can get a long piece at Home Depot, Lowe’s, ACE, or really almost any hardware store.  You can get 4’ of the stuff for around $10.  That's quite a few rank bars, even if they're all the largest 6" size.  So make some for a friend, or make yourself a variety so you can choose ranks like you pick socks for the day, LOL
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801927/204274000
 

 
Step three: Determine Size Needed
 
Figure out how long it needs to be, based on how many buttons you’ll be using, and how far apart they are.  Add the same spacing on each end, and I usually add a millimeter or two of extra length, because it’s easier to sand a little more off than to add more, if anything happens during the finishing process.  Especially if the end cut is not perfect.  Rogue One buttons, as pictured below, should be 3mm apart.  The smaller OT buttons should be about 1/4" (~6mm) between them.  See the Imperial Rank Bar databank page for details.  (Note: That page needs updating with Rogue One/Solo info... it's being worked on)  I'm using millimeters in this guide... I find them easier to work with for measuring very small distances like this, and most rulers have both measurements anyway.
 
I do this by literally just setting the buttons on the bar, starting from the end, and measuring out along a ruler.  Very simple.  Mark a line somewhere where you need to cut.
 

 
Step four: Cut the Aluminum
 
To cut the aluminum, I just use a hacksaw in a miter box.  Aluminum is really soft and easy to cut, but if you don’t have a hacksaw, most hardware stores will do at least one cut on for you, so plan ahead and bring your measurements.  (Be sure to pad the numbers because they’re not usually super precise about their cuts!)
 

 
Step five: Rough sand the bar
 
Sand the ends down to the exact size you want, within about a millimeter.  I use my bench grinder for this, but it can be done by hand with just some sandpaper if you don’t have one.  Rough sandpaper is fine at this stage (100-200 grit, whatever), because you’ll be cleaning it up with finer sandpaper in the next step.
 

 
Step six: Fine finishing of the bar
 
Next we clean it up, get rid of any visible scratches (common with plain bar stock from big box stores, since aluminum is soft and it gets beat up a lot), and generally make it nice.  For this I use a high grit sandpaper, like 500 grit, and use one that’s rated for wet sanding, because it gives a much better final product very easily.  You want a nice perfectly flat surface for this… I use the counter of the bathroom or kitchen sink, because it’s an easy place to do it.  The aluminum powder sanded off can then be washed away quickly and easily, and the counter tends to be a perfectly flat surface.  (perfect another for this, anyway… as long as you’re not talking aerospace parts, it’s fine)  Just put a little dribble of water on the sandpaper and scrub back and forth until it’s clean and smooth.  Clean up the ends, too, while you’re at it.  I don’t spend much time on the back, since it’s never seen, but sometimes I’ll hit it a little if I feel inclined.
 

 
Some like to use a straight edge to sand along so the lines are perfectly horizontal, but it the final finish is smooth enough, that’s not something I care about.  Here’s the final bar, for this badge:
 

 
Step seven: Measure
 
I’m a big fan of measuring, measuring, measuring, at multiple times throughout this process, because you really want this as perfect as possible.  Shortcut that if you want, but don’t blame me if your badges are less than perfect. So I lay out the buttons, again, on the final bar, and double check everything lays the way I want, including the right amount sticking out on the sides.
 

 
Step eight: Button disassembly
 
Now we’re onto the buttons themselves.  Remove the white inserts (just gently squeeze the legs and they should come right out).
 

 
Step nine: Button trimming
 
Next cut off those little legs.  You can use any number of tools for this.  I’ve used hot knives, utility / box knives Exacto knives, diagonal snips… currently my favorite method is the cutoff wheel on my Dremel:
 

 

 
Step ten: Button cleanup
 
Then I clean up the inside with the Exacto knife.  
 

 
Cleaning up a lot doesn’t matter a whole lot, since its on the back and inside, but I’m a perfectionist that way.  It does need to be perfectly cut away, though, so they lay perfectly flat.  Extra plastic from the pins in the middle that make it rock back and forth is NOT what you want.  Be careful not to take too much away… the covers clip in the middle indent, so that needs to be there, and you don’t want a big gap in the middle that lets the glue seep out, either.  At the end, I take a couple of quick swipes on that wet sandpaper again… just a couple, though.  You don’t want to remove much material here.
 

 
Step eleven: More measuring
 
Lay the inserts out on the bar again, and gently set the button covers on them so you can space them out and measure the distance again.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THE BUTTON COVERS ONTO THE INSERTS FROM HERE UNTIL THE VERY END!!!  Without the legs, those inserts are a REAL b#$%* to remove.
 
Step twelve: Reference tape
 
Once everything is, again, laid out perfectly, use a strip of painters tape to carefully slide under the button covers (remember, they’re not pressed on, so they’re held a millimeter or two above the surface of the bar), flush against the inserts.  This is going to be your alignment guide to make sure the inserts are perfectly positioned at the right height, so they’re nice and centered on the bar. (top to bottom)
 

 
Step thirteen: Double-check the line
 
Sanity check your tape alignment to make sure it’s nice and straight… it’s funny (not funny) how obvious a millimeter off looks, once everything is put together.  The slant is a lot more obvious than you’d think.  I tweaked the line just slightly after I took this photo, FWIW, since the left edge looks a hair lower than the right.
 

 
Step fourteen: Space out the buttons
 
Lay out the buttons covers out on their face AGAIN (upside down), on either a piece of paper, paper towel, or some other protective surface you don’t want glue on your nice dining room table, or even your workbench), carefully measured out, and with the inserts lightly placed inside.  (REMINDER: BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS THEM INTO THE COVERS!)
 

 
Step fifteen: Use tape to hold the button insert underside
 
Now the interesting part begins.  Tape a piece of painters tape (I like 1” for this)and gently lay it onto the undersides of the inserts.  You should be able to lift the inserts out and have them stay in the exact position they were in when you flip it over.  Measure them all AGAIN and confirm everything is as straight as it should be.
 

 
Step sixteen: Use tape to hold the button insert from the top
 
Take ANOTHER piece of painters tape and lay it over the TOP of those inserts.  Again, this should lock them into place and hold them nice and firmly.  Give yourself a good extra inch or so on either side, because later you’ll want to wrap the ends around the bar to hold things in place.
 

 
Step seventeen: Release the button insert underside
 
Flip it over and remove the tape from the bottom, and you have all the covers nice and in place, ready for gluing.
 

 
Step eighteen: Fill the inserts with Glue
 
And now we glue.  Use E6000 or similar slow cure, self-leveling glue.  Fill each insert entirely, but be careful not to OVER-fill them.
 

 
Step nineteen: Top off the glue levels
 
Double check they’re completely filled, and add a little more if any corners aren’t fully filled, etc.
 

 
Step twenty: Apply the bar
 
Now remember that bar stock with the tape along the edge?  Put that tape line right up against the buttons covers filled with glue.  You should feel it easily when the tape line touches the inserts.
 

 
Step twenty-one: Flip the inserts and bar
 
Flip it over so the glue will go down and glue the inserts onto the bar.  Double-check your alignment against that alignment tape, now that you can see it easier.  You should see pretty clearly that they’re all neatly pressed against the tape reference line, and you’ll know they’re just where they should be as a result.
 

 
Step twenty-two: Remove the alignment tape and package it up for the night
 
At this point, once I’m sure everything is where I want it, I fold the ends of the top painters tape under the bar, to hold everything exactly in place.  Remove the alignment tape and wrap it round the middle, like a belt holding it all together.
 

 
Step twenty-three: Walk away...
 
Leave it all out to cure overnight.  You’ll want probably 10-14 hours of cure time before the next step.
 

 
Step twenty-four: Double-check alignment and measurements
 
After about 10-14 hours have passed, the glue will be about perfect for the next step.  Too long and it’s hard to move things around, if small adjustments are needed.  Too short a time, and things can just move out of place again.  10-14 hours is the perfect level of tacky but no longer slippery.
 
Carefully remove all the tape, and gently place the button covers on the inserts again, so you can truly measure the final positions.  (don’t lock them on, remember!)  While you CAN measure just the inserts, I find the nice sharp edges of the button covers area easier to measure, and the sharp lines make it more clear if anything is off.
 

 
Step twenty-five: More measuring checks
 
Remove the button covers and AGAIN make sure everything is aligned perfectly, and the measurements between each are perfectly consistent.  Again, a half millimeter will be visibly obvious once it’s all done, so this is your last chance to fix things.  If anything is off, you should be able to carefully push the inserts around as needed.  The glue will allow movements without screwing anything up, at this stage.  Be sure to use a straightedge to make sure everything is *perfectly* straight.
 

 
Step twenty-six: Glue cleanup
 
If any glue seeped out from under the inserts, now is the perfect time to clean it up.  The glue is still soft enough to be easy to remove with an exacto knife, and not cured hard yet, but not so soft that it just squishes around under the blade.  Be careful not to move anything around while you do this, but it should be fairly set in place, as long as you work gently.  Cutting right along the edge of the inserts will scratch the bar, but not in a visible area, since the button covers will go over this area.
 

 
Step twenty-seven: Walk away again...
 
Now leave it somewhere safe and walk away for another 10-14 hours.  The glue will cure more fully during this time, but it’s no longer so slippery that it’s likely to move out of place on it’s own.
 
Step twenty-eight: Attach the button covers
 
After a full 24 hours from the initial gluing has passed, all your work pays off.  Visually look it over one last time, measure AGAIN if you want, and then you can proceed to snap the button covers fully onto the inserts, and enjoy your beautiful new rank bar.
 

 
Step twenty-nine: Apply the backing
 
The timing of the very last step is up to you.  The glue SHOULD be pretty set at this point, but I still like to be careful (there’s a lot of glue in an enclosed space, in there).  E6000 fully cures in 72 hours, so that’s my preferred time to proceed, but it really depends on how much of a hurry you’re in.  I’ve done the last step sooner and been fine, just try to be gentle with the buttons a bit longer, and don’t leave them anywhere where anything is pressing on them.
 
But the last step is to attach whatever attachment method you’re using to the back.  I use simple self-adhesive magnet bars from Amazon (see the DIY push button source thread linked at the top of this post).  Just peel off the sticker backing and stick on the back of the rank bar, and you’re done.  (I put something moderately heavy on top for a couple minutes to really stick the sucker on there)  Some prefer push pins, which would need to be epoxied into place, but that’s all up to the end user)
 

 
Step thirty: There is no step thirty
 
Et fini. You're done.   Stick on your costume and rock that rank!
 

 
Happy Rank Bar making!
 

I think I made that original color comparison post.  I've got a set of the new olive tunic and pants coming.  I could compare to the old Anovos if there's interest.  I've got a DN black uniform as well.  While I don't have a black Anovos, the fabric looks pretty much the same as the one or two black Anovos ones I saw years ago.  Pretty sure they would work just fine together. 

I can now provide more information the fit of the trousers and hat.
 
The trousers run on the small side. My waist hovers around a 34-36. Medium is 32-34 and a Large is 36-38. My size should be right in the middle between their Medium and Large. I went with large. In theory there should be 2 inches to spare requiring a belt. Nope no belt needed.
 
The hat is a strange fit. Tight on the sides, loose in the front and back.
 
I'm 85% towards a complete costume.

Update...
 
I did indeed order my olive Line Officer tunic and hat on Monday, and did a pre-order on the pants.  I did the two orders separately, as I did not want the not-yet-available pants to slow down the shipping of the in-stock tunic and hat.  I needed have worried about that, because...
 
...both orders shipped today.
 
Very pleased to see the 48-hour turnaround on my order, and with the UPS shipping I should see them by the end of the week.  Once they arrive, I'll let everyone know how they fit.
 
A.J.

Here's my take, using some language from the Krennic CRL where these riding boots with adjustment straps first appeared, and the OT Bridge crew jack boots (where this sort of adjustment strap was copied from):
 
Officer Boots Knee-high, black, riding style, lace-less, smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material. Boots have conservative heels. A single stretch panel or zipper may be present, they are to be hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft. Not visible from the front, side or back. The top of the boots may be flat or Spanish Style, but not Cowboy or Super Hero (pointed at the front) style. A small V-shaped notch may be present on the back of the boots top. Boots may have a top adjustment strap on the outside of the boots with a flap attached to the rear seam of the boots.
 
Buckle is attached to the front of the rear flap.
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots have a flat top, not Spanish style. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. Not vinyl or PVC. Exact replicas of English riding (dress) boots or Equestrian boots. THAT SAID, we need to do some homework on this, to make sure that ALL the characters in the non-saga shows and movie (Rogue One) used flat top boots, and not the Spanish style.  I also want to look closer at which characters have the adjustment strap added.  For some, we may want to make that adjustment strap a required detail, not optional, at least at higher levels. (I'm thinking that should be an L3 detail, if required)  And for others, we might even consider making the inner zipper a required detail at L2+. (Meero for sure, for instance)

Oh, wait, are you talking about the Olive uniforms, or the black?
 
The black Anovos and Denuo Novo should be identical.  No worries whatsoever there.

Nice... I guess Star Wars.com is officially dubbing them "Imperial Security Troopers" so that's the canon name.
 
I still suspect IOC won't get them, since they're just a color variant of the existing Army Trooper armor (which I believe SpecOps has all of those variants already), but good to have that locked down at least.

That thread shows the only direct comparison photos we've seen so far... not many have both costumes in hand, and you can't compare separately-taken shots.
 
The fabric is indeed the same (and yes, from the same manufacturer), but the dye lot is slightly different.  Close enough to work if you need it to (especially for a hat where there's some separation), but it's not an exact match.  I don't think I would recommend mixing an Anovos tunic with Denuo Novo pants, for instance.  The difference looks minimal under some lighting conditions, but it's a lot more noticeable under others.  This sort of thing is very difficult to photograph.

Enjoy.
 
 

^^ A member here bought one of those, I believe, and generally liked it.  The molding and finishing is *rough*, though.  While I'm personally super impatient for a good rubber SE-14R, I wouldn't pay that price for one of that quality.  It's either going to look like... well, like it does in the photo, or it's going to take a LOT of work to make it into something that I would consider reasonably good quality.
 
Maybe I'm too much of a perfectionist, but there you go.
 
I'm not a big fan of 3D printed blasters, for the most part, but this is an area where I currently make an exception, since I haven't found a high quality rubber option, to date.
 
I know at least one well-regarded maker is considering adding one to their lineup, but the timeline is hazy.

In my case, I just want my new Denuo Novo olive line officer to match my wife's olive Anovos line officer.  As Kalani noted above with the "separation" involved with tunic and hat, I'm thinking that the separation between separate uniforms on my wife an me should be fine.
 
A.J.

Yes, it does look simple.  I have an unfinished leather "shoulder," dye, and finish--may just make it myself.  

I've seen good holsters at Philo Props (Etsy) and Darman's Props (also Etsy), but I'm sure there are others.  It's a really simple pattern.
 
Be aware that SE-14R sizes seem to vary quite a bit, though, so you may want to provide measurements of yours with your order, to make sure the holster will fit correctly.

Nice... I guess Star Wars.com is officially dubbing them "Imperial Security Troopers" so that's the canon name.
 
I still suspect IOC won't get them, since they're just a color variant of the existing Army Trooper armor (which I believe SpecOps has all of those variants already), but good to have that locked down at least.

Yes indeed I am planning on making it a little bit shorter (about 5 cm) so that it's around a "palm's length" below the end of my hands (Beehaz had about the same). As for the flair out of the tunic it's mostly my body shape (gained a few kilos during Covid unfortunate) and also the pant's kind of "push" them outwards, but I'm gonna be thinking about that yet. Besides, I believe once it'll be a tad shorter it'll fix on itself so to speak. Stay tuned for the next update