kman

Eek.  Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery!

Seconded.  R1 should definitely be with the OT.  The costumes are right from ANH (even if lightly modified).  Nothing like Ep 1-3.
 
The other new movies remain to be seen.  They're likely set between Ep III and IV as well, but since there are zero photos available at this point, it's way too soon to make calls on those.  One would assume a young Han Solo movie wouldn't be TOO far off Ep IV (and R1), but we're still talking years, not days/hours, as in the case of R1.

CosplaySky was always regular patches, not vinyl.  Bummer yours didn't fit right... that's always the gamble with CS.  It's also a shame they appear to have changed their fabric, as the cotton was good.  Yours is the second I've heard about the new fabric.  I think CS is no longer going to be a viable flightsuit vendor if they don't change things back quickly.
 
I've asked the same question about white vs. silver cogs, and the consensus seems to be that either are technically approvable, but white is vastly preferred.  There have been talks about updating the CRL to remove the references to silver.  So I'd definitely recommend white vinyl iron on cogs if you want to go level 3.

Hawk's tutorial is great, but it's unfinished.

You wouldn't see "blinking compads" if the lights are off.  These look like pretty normal compads to me.  And yet, they CAN light up.
 

 
"Electronically lit" can be read in more than one way: Actually lit (turned on, emitting light), or "not capable of being lit" (presumably due to the entire absence of lighting, concealed or not).
 
The lights are pretty invisible when they're off, at least in those where a good job was done (i.e., TargWorx, pictured above)
 
 
As I said in my previous post, Targ, the former leader of JRS, clearly believes in the first interpretation: As long as they're off, they're not "lit" and thus good to go.
 
FISD and MEPD have a similar stance with regarding to electronics in the backpack: You can have electronics, and light your pack up like a Christmas tree, but it has to be well concealed so it's not obviously different from a vanilla pack.  As long as that's the case, there's nothing stopping you from level 3 with any other detachment.
 
I don't believe I've seen any firm determinations in writing as to the stance of the IOC leadership on this issue, but if they're different from the others in this way, on this one small thing, that would be... disappointing.
 
Further discussion should probably be taken to a separate thread, so we're not monopolizing Robert's WIP thread.

You wouldn't see "blinking compads" if the lights are off.  These look like pretty normal compads to me.  And yet, they CAN light up.
 

 
"Electronically lit" can be read in more than one way: Actually lit (turned on, emitting light), or "not capable of being lit" (presumably due to the entire absence of lighting, concealed or not).
 
The lights are pretty invisible when they're off, at least in those where a good job was done (i.e., TargWorx, pictured above)
 
 
As I said in my previous post, Targ, the former leader of JRS, clearly believes in the first interpretation: As long as they're off, they're not "lit" and thus good to go.
 
FISD and MEPD have a similar stance with regarding to electronics in the backpack: You can have electronics, and light your pack up like a Christmas tree, but it has to be well concealed so it's not obviously different from a vanilla pack.  As long as that's the case, there's nothing stopping you from level 3 with any other detachment.
 
I don't believe I've seen any firm determinations in writing as to the stance of the IOC leadership on this issue, but if they're different from the others in this way, on this one small thing, that would be... disappointing.
 
Further discussion should probably be taken to a separate thread, so we're not monopolizing Robert's WIP thread.

I just wanted to share with everyone a product I found. 
I have a pair of real German knobelbeckers and the calves were uncomfortably snug, even with the adjustment strap completely unhooked. 
The top of the foot was a little snug too. I found this shoe stretching spray on Amazon that had really good reviews. So I tried it. 
You simply spray it on in the inside of the boot and wear the boots. I walked around the house for a couple hours and low a behold they were stretched out to to a very comfortable size. I couldn't buckle up the strap before and now I could get two holes. I'm going to do it again tomorrow with heavier socks to stretch them a bit more. 
I will post a picture of the product I got on Amazon below. It was like $9 and something if your wondering the price. 

Cool! Ovation should suffice until I can get the authentic stuff. Right now I want to try to gain an entry into the Ohio Garrison and will be more than happy to upgrade from there. Thank you guys so much for your help. I'm really excited in joining the legion. It's been a goal of mine since 2010 with a TK set (still needs some work though).
I'll post updates when I get a set.
So far all I think I need are my boots, and maybe a hat if this one doesn't work.

They don't seem to be one offs, and once I hear from the seller I'll share.  I just don't want to sour the deal, nor over promise.
 

I had not, but your post inspired me to look back into this.
 
I took my piece of scrap belt and a brand new "fine" sanding sponge (cheap from Harbor Freight).  After a moderate amount of sanding (not a short time, but nowhere near 10 minutes, maybe not even 5 minutes) it appears that we probably can get something at least approximating the right appearance.  A nod to correctness, if you will.
 
It lightened the top, but definitely did not get down to raw leather color.  I think to do that with these dipped belts, you would need to remove a significant amount of leather, enough to actually change the width of the belt.
 
This pic shows the black top edge and the raw cut end of the belt (this section was trimmed from the main belt when I cut it down to my size). Sorry about the focus, I really need better lighting and/or another pair of hands to force the focus to lock, but you can still see the color of the undyed belt interior, and that's what's most important.
 

 
This pic shows the lighter top edge after sanding, as compared the still-black top end coming from above (the other end of the piece, curling in).
 

 
The good news, interestingly, is the outside top edge actually looked lighter than the middle, see how there's almost a lighter whitish stripe?  No idea why, but it should definitely give a noticeably lighter top edge once I sand my actual belt.
 
A handy tip has occurred to me, for this: I see a lot of people accidentally putting their belt on backwards when dressing in a hurry.  If you only sand the top edge of the belt, it will be a great visual indicator that the correct side is facing up, so the single silver rivet that should show to the right of the buckle (from a viewer's perspective, or to the left of the buckle as you look down at it) is on the correct side.  And of course, it's pretty unlikely that anyone will be looking at you from an angle that shows the underside of the belt.  Or that it would matter if they did.

I don't think the powers that be will be changing the CRL anytime soon when it comes to zippers on boots.
 
"If zippers are present, they are hidden on the inner part of the boot shaft. Not visible from the front, side or back."

Hi all,
 
I have uploaded the pics in here : https://1drv.ms/f/s!AlUItUeL0hLPrSDUQvYhsIBD0WhO
 
Cheers

Thanks.  
 
I like the finished look.  Actually, I made the black caps.  I took an appropriately sized rubber O ring and set it into the bottom groove.  I pushed a cork into the bottom, hacked it off flush, and then dipped it in black Plasti Dip.

Good luck!

I'm sure at one point in time we've received a Force Choke from Lord Vader. Time to share our moments
 

Aluminum bar stock is very soft.  A hand saw (better yet a hacksaw, if you have one or can borrow?) should be able to slice right through, then clean it up with sandpaper.

Heh.  Sorry, I've already sold the small ones (10), and had my replacements (11) stretched.  I'm all set.  Just need to find time to bring out my green screen and take my Level 3 photos...

Thanks again K. My hacksaw worked out great. You saved me from a needless reorder. Super!

It would make sense. I know I am getting embroidered with my flight suit, but have every intention on going vinyl once I get working on it. I wonder if the would work with the velcro? I may experiment with it some, but trial and error will determine that one. You give out great insight, thank you.

Oh, it's totally fine for basic approval, and an effective technique, to be sure.  I've used it in a number of places, just not here.
 
For those who like to go for higher levels, or simply be more accurate, it's good to have all the info on hand so an informed decision can be made, whether it's "screw the higher levels, I just wanna troop" or "bring on the ruler and judge my accuracy!" LOL 
 
Re-reading the OP, it seems they're looking at this for a TIE Pilot, which is a different detachment entirely. Not sure why it's posted in the IOC forums, under the circumstances... although that uniform is very, very, VERY similar to our Bridge crew uniform.  But the JRS CRL for TIE Reserve/Pilot also requests the vinyl patches instead of embroidered.  So the same questions would apply, I suppose.
 
For level two certification (if applicable):
Imperial patches on the shoulders are printed vinyl rather than embroidered. At any rate, there's the info, so decisions can be made.   Happy trooping!

Is that approveable for upper levels?  That's a really old trick for military patches, and there's no doubt that it works, but it does make the patch "stand out" a little more, and might make it look more like the regular embroidered patch instead of the iron-on vinyl patch that lays practically flush on the fabric.  The material would be different between the two, but the overall appearance of a patch "sewn" on is not what they're looking for.  (at least, that's my impression)
 
I'd be curious to see leadership weigh in on this.  While going with Velcro sticks with the letter of the CRL, I'm not so sure it's true to the intent / spirit.
 
For level three certification (if applicable):
Imperial patches on the shoulders are printed vinyl rather than embroidered.

I was fortunate enough to meet Carrie Fisher (and her little dog too!) in 2015 at Tampa Bay Comic Con. May the Force always be with her...

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Excellent, thanks!  Ordering a bunch now.

Very interesting.  Construction looks good, and I love the color.  That fabric looks almost... knit?  Doesn't look like other garbardines that I've seen, and I'm not sure I like that.
 
I agree with James, I'm also unsure about the snap closure for the tunic, instead of a zipper.

Howdy! I am excited to tell everyone that I used my Imperial Staff Office uniform for the first time this past Friday for the Rogue One premiere. I got my uniform from Magnoli Clothiers. I am still missing the belt and the gloves. I have to adjust the trousers and the jacket for a better fit. Hopefully, I can join the 501st soon!