kman

Considering the leadership posts in the thread I linked above, that seems unlikely.
 
There are plenty of on-screen examples that can used to make a case.  Nearly every one, in fact.

Essentially, everything should be proportional, and look "right" to the eye.
 
There is a limit to human proportions that's going to limit how far a hat design would be tweaked, unless you're talking about making them for infants and small children.
 
The CRL is actually wrong, as far as the bill measurement is concerned.  (there are a couple of threads discussing this recently)  The general ratio is the crown should be approx 4", and the bill should be 1/2 to 2/3 of that length, which basically means 2" to 2.75" long for a 4" crown.
 
Hat sizes for adults don't change THAT much, because of math... adding several inches to the circumference doesn't actually add quite as much to the diameter.  So other than children's sizes, you really are looking at standard 4" crowns for any normal adult size, perhaps 1/2" less for the smallest of adult sizes.
 
I would sew the basic top "cap" to fit your head, to get the size needed to actually fit your head, and THEN worry about adding the bill in the correct proportions.  I would say the bill of the hat pictured is definitely too long.
 
This thread may be helpful:
 

^^ Exactly.
 
The precise meaning behind the "random" rank bars isn't really important, as long as we're wearing a representation of something that was actually on screen.

For our costumes I agree. I was more focused on the in universe canon explanation, cause I love those little bits of lore.

And as such we wear replicas of those random rank bars. ☺
For canon events at least. Non canonical events may afford more flexibility, depending on your local garrison. 

I just got word from Wampa Wear on how to put on vinyl patches on costume. 

Hahaha what a coincidence! That's exactly what I went with in the end LOL. I used clothes clips to hold the epaulettes in place, used my knees to achieve the curvature. Worked out pretty well!

It's all good, there's always Episode 8! LOL

That is somewhat of a loaded question (lol). It is a classic Revell Star Destroyer model kit, painted and lit. I drilled several hundred 1/32" holes into the window ports. Then fed and glued a 1/32" strand of fiber optic cable into the drilled hole. I bunched them into groups and attached them to various white source LED's throughout the model. The engines are lit by 7 blue LED lights and I also used a white LED to illuminate the underside docking bay.

That looks awesome!  Although yes, ideally, some of those lights could be removed so it's a little less Christmasy.  Perfect for the season, though!

Oh, and those eBay gloves are basically the same as the Leather Mystics gauntlets, which are actually a little cheaper.  And I like giving money to a small family business.
 
http://www.leathermystics.com/gauntlets/gauntlets.html
 
Same issue applies, however... they won't pass for level 3.

Just one of my (way too many) hobbies. I built it a couple of years ago. I went a little overboard lighting it, but still one of my favorite builds.
 

 

 

 

All good stuff.
My 2 cents: 
Around Stormtroopers & the like, look confident and act like you are in charge. 
Around Vader, be attentive while looking nervous.

Most military trenchcoats are simple Cotton canvas with a waterproof coating applied, I believe.

For level 3, however, our detachment leaders want to see TIE Pilot-style gloves with the 3 rows of stitching on the back.

It's like I always said; Who needs to sit when you can lean awkwardly with your rump against a low surface? 
 
OK, maybe I haven't /always/ said that..

I think that apart from the belt there's nothing much to be done .

Our glorious Imperial Uniform looks gorgeous but it has never been a comfy one to wear , looking sharp comes with " inconveniences "
Always makes me laugh when people think it's a piece of cake to troop a whole day as an Officer because it's " just soft parts "

I've never had similar issue with boots and most likely never will , but i've read that many people struggle to find fitting boots large sizes , or with large calves .

Stretching them yourself is probably the best solution you have right now if you can find a boot that you think won't require to be stretched 5 inches larger than it is ( so to speak , you get the idea ) . Otherwise i'm afraid that your best solution will be to wait , spare and buy custom boots from Hessen Antiques or something . They often make promotions on custom made boots too .

It's best that you wait a bit and afford boots in which you will feel comfortable trooping for hours rather than go for the fastest / cheapest way , or you might regret it sooner than you think . If you have to spend more money on one thing , let it be your boots .

Little bit of cleanup left on the edge and will have to draw up a new pattern.
 

So, I know that the Imperial Army/Navy isn't exactly the US Military, and I'm sure that various different countries around the world have different definitions of "Military bearing", but I wanted to share some of the checklist tips for good posture and bearing that I learned from Drill and Ceremonies in my old high school's JROTC program and from the contest standards of US Army drill sergeants and judges, based on the fact that a uniform is a uniform and these tips will help anyone look professional and strictly-trained in uniformed character! (Any veterans are welcome to correct and add-on as necessary, even if they're not a US veteran: if your country has similar or different guidelines, feel free to share!)
 
So, when standing "at-attention" (or just standing straight for the layman), some good notes are:
Keep your chin up; depending on your posture and height you may feel like you're "looking down" at people, which is useful for the villainous looks you may have to give civilians as an Imperial Officer Keep your back straight; a basic posture note, but one that can be forgotten easily. Ensure that you're not hunching forward or leaning, and that your shoulders are back. Press your heels together, and have your feet at a 45 degree angle. To practice proper spacing, have someone else place their foot between your feet, and move your toes to touch theirs. Keep your arms at your side, with hands balled into loose "fists". Have your thumb pointed down (not tucked into your fist) and ensure that it's in line with the seam of your pants (or in this case, the point of your flares). Look straight-forward. When in a military formation, this would usually mean looking "past" or "through" people and obstacles in front of you in order to keep your face trained directly ahead of you, though I suspect that this will hardly be necessary whilst trooping.  Never lock your knees; They should bend ever so comfortably so as to allow blood flow. Failing to do so will run the risk of either your legs falling asleep or you passing out Another position is "parade rest", sometimes referred to incorrectly as "at ease"
Fold your arms behind your back, just above your butt. tuck your RIGHT hand into your LEFT hand, as to allow the left knuckle to lay against your back, Have your thumbs nest against one another with your right thumb laying on top. I've noted that some reference images show Imperial Officers utilizing parade rest by holding their left WRIST in their right hand (and sometimes vice-versa), rather than clasping their hands together. Do whatever feels comfortable, of course! There are actually differing standards for this position, even in the US Military: The US Army and some areas of the Marines insist that your hands should be at mid-back, causing the elbows to point out much further, while most of the Air Force and Navy allow the hands to fall more comfortably right above the rump. Put your feet at shoulder-width apart, keeping the same angle as Attention. Through some practice, you will find that this position is the most comfortable; if you feel like your legs are too straight or too spread, then they probably are. Whilst in PARADE REST, one is expected to keep their eyes straight forward as if they were at Attention. To the contrary, AT EASE allows for free movement of the head, usually as to give attention to a speaker or subject. Again, this probably isn't necessary to know for basic troop work The final thing to note is how to salute-- This is the US Military salute, and probably isn't necessary or accurate for an Imperial Officer.. but why not?
First thing to note is that the form of a salute is very hard to master on your own. It usually requires another person to tell you how it looks; what needs to be straightened or what needs to be slacked. Try practicing in a mirror if this is of any concern to you. The salute is always given with the right arm. The lower portion of the arm (the bicep) is level with your shoulder, forming a straight line outwards, and a point at your elbow. The upper portion of the arm (the forearm) is at the most direct angle towards your face. Ensure that your elbow points directly out to your side. Your hand forms a straight blade-like posture, sometimes referred to as a "knifehand". The thumb is straight along the hand and all the fingers are held together. Make sure that your wrist doesn't bend at all; it should form a straight line from your fingertips to your elbow. The very tip of your longest finger should touch the outer-point of your eyebrow; If you are wearing glasses, it should touch the furthest point of your glasses, and if you're wearing a hat, it should touch the brim of the hat. The hand should be rotated "downwards" so as to show none of the palm. Likewise, the hand should not be entirely vertical so as to show the thumb; work on finding a good middle ground. When moving your hand to-and-from the saluting position, your arm should swing inwards over your chest with your elbow as the pivot, so that your fingers trace along your gig line (or where buttons would be on a dress shirt, for example.) Basic bearing (stuff that didnt fit into the above categories)
Whilst taking stride, let your arms swing naturally-- every time your right foot takes a step, your left hand should swing forward. Doing the opposite (stepping and swinging on the same side) is referred to as "Puppetting" (as it looks like your hand is pulling your foot along a la puppet string) When sitting, ensure to sit with the soles of your feet facing the floor. (This means to either avoid crossing your legs, or do so in a manner that doesn't raise your foot) and always keep your back straight. When sitting at a table, never put your elbows onto the table  
This aside, I've found a single (And somewhat desperately-sized) Wookiepedia article about how the Imperial Officer should salute. Take this as you please:
http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Imperial_salute
It appears to be a rather relaxed salute in which one extends their right arm forward and addresses the palm to the one they're saluting. This is reminiscent of a type of roman salute, one of many gestures used in history to signify fascism (and as such should be used with caution-- I'd even advise against using it at all, especially if you live in Germany.. if you get what I'm saying ;O)
 
 
Nothing here I've listed is imperative to the Imperial Officer; I just thought a simplified bearing tutorial would be a valuable resource for people who want to know how to look professional in character 

I believe the "corner" below the barrel tip should be rounded off, based on what I've seen.  Do you have a source that shows a hard corner like that?
 
One thing I can definitely say is the belt loops should be MUCH shorter.  The top of the holster should snug right up against the belt, according to feedback I got in preparation for my level 3 application.  To my eye, they should be slightly more narrow, as well.
 
Otherwise, it's a good start, and looks like nice work!

Whilst studying the uniforms I looked into this. From my research, specifically officers, I found ANH officers had belts with scuffed / undyed edges to their belts, no grooves. ESB officers had plain belts with black edges. It was only RotJ officers which had belts with grooves.

Sorry I'm just now seeing this. Just thought I'd give my thoughts on this.
I've never seen a stretch panel in that particular spot, so this is new to me. I'll have to start checking for those. 
Stretch panels are specifically mentioned in the CRL because all the ones I've ever seen were on the back, side, or somewhere very obvious, making the boots look inaccurate. As mentioned, zippers on the inner shaft are allowed because they are basically out of plain sight. I think this detail might also fall into that out of sight category & we need to take a look at that. The thought behind it's placement is seemingly the same as having a zipper there, in my opinion. I would say those are fine for basic approval at least. If you can find better ones, or have this detail modified by a cobbler, that's great, but please feel free to quote me in saying I think these are ok for basic. 

A Galaxy far far away?

All excellent points, kman.  I didn't intend for my initial post to put CS down at all (just to clarify my intent), but to let people who haven't dealt with them know that the sizing grid is, as you say, hard to match all body types.