kman

It's slow during the holidays with family visiting and whatnot and Christmas and Thanksgiving are so close this year.
 
I'd done a lot of work on refining parts of the staff but hadn't been able to print it yet.
 


I refined the shape and added some details. It's printed in ABS tough acrylic. I'm going to tinker with some ways to make it look silver but shine through.
 
I'll print the staff rods (at least one set) tomorrow and see if I like them, and then I might translate them to aluminum or steel.
 
I don't love how thin the handle is based on show design and modeling, but the dimensions are accurate (I just personally think that the hilt should be bigger).
 
I'm scaling the parts up a little anyway since I am waaaaaay taller than Giancarlo Esposito.

This information has been a bit buried in the past, so let's bring it out for all to see.
 

Lead #1: https://wampawear.com/product/vinyl-imperial-cog-patches/

A very common problem people can have, when they are new to forums like this one, is figuring out how to get their photos posted.  The IOC forums have only a very small amount of space for each person's account, due to server space limitations.  The 501st is a volunteer organization (how much did you pay to join?  Trick question!) and we don't have the deep pockets of the world's wealthiest mega corporations (Facebook, Google) to pay for the space to host everyone's unlimited photos.  And modern cellphones take very large images... a single image can easily fill your entire space allotment!
 
Instead, we recommend hosting your photos elsewhere.  Then you can simply paste a LINK to the photos here in the forums, and all it is is a little bit pf text... the photo itself is pulled from the other location.
 
The problem is many "free" places that you can post your photos do magic on the back end of their servers, to manage the massive quantities they have to deal with.  And they won't give a DIRECT link to your photos... they will only give a magically-generated link that they use to pull up the photo on the fly, and unfortunately, that won't work with forums like ours.  The link MUST be a direct link to a photo, ending in the image file itself, just like it would look if you save it to your computer's hard drive.  (like "IMG1234.jpg" or really any image name ending JPG, PNG or other common image formats)  Google, Facebook, DropBox... none of these popular places will give you a DIRECT link to your photos.
 
Fortunately, Imgur is a popular free host which DOES offer direct links to your photos, and works great for this.  It's free for now.  No one can know if it will remain free forever, but it's the best we can do at this time.  (We pray it never turns evil like Photobucket and breaks the internet, killing all linked photos unless you pay!)
 
If you've already managed to fill up your attachment allowance, once you have put your photos on Imgur and gotten links for them all, you can edit your posts and replace the photo attachments with the links.  It'll look exactly the same, but there won't be any space used in your local storage, once those attachments are deleted.
 
So here is a step-by-step instructions on how to use Imgur to host your photos, for all your posts here in the IOC Forums.  (and any other 501st forums)
 
THESE ARE DETAILED STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS.  ONCE YOU DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES YOU'LL SEE IT'S A VERY SIMPLE PROCESS!  So don't be scared off by the length of these instructions!
 
Note: I personally find the process easiest on a real computer, but that requires you to have your photos already saved on your computer, and many people have their photos fairly trapped on their phones, these days.  Fortunately, they have a phone app also. 
 
1) Download the Imgur app onto your smartphone from your App Store or Google Play, or wherever you get apps.
 

 
2) Log in, or create an account.
 

 
Note: If asked, you'll need to allow the app access to your photos, obviously, else you can't upload photos or save them from Imgur.
 
4) Tap the Plus icon in the upper right corner to upload a new photo (or photos)
 

 
5) When you've selected all the pictures you want to upload, click Next (again, upper right corner)
 

 
6) On this next screen, you'll want to
 
A) Give the set of pictures a title (you are creating a "post" that's basically a "photo album", and you can add more photos to this album (post) later, or make another new one every time, whichever you choose) 
 
B.) Decide if you want the pictures to be public (the default, at first)... anyone in the world can see them, and search for keywords, and comment on them.  Or (my recommendation, but it's up to you) make them hidden so they can only be seen by you... or anyone with the direct link to the photo.  (Like people on this forum, when you paste in the links)
 
C) Optional: Add a description or tags if you want the image to show up for the general public's searches (or your own searches... it could be handy if you have a LOT of photos to be able to search).  Optional... if you don't understand this part, feel free to leave it blank.
 
D) Optional: If you want to add more, you can click "Add Images and Videos" there at the bottom.
 
E) Finally, click "Upload" (in the upper right, as usual).
 

 
7) It will warn you that you're creating a Private (or Public) post, in case that was an accident, otherwise, it'll upload the photo(s).
 

 
8.) Next it will offer you the ability to "Copy Link".  That link, however, is for the ENTIRE ALBUM.  (which may be one photo, or may be 100 photos)  Handy if you want to send the whole collection to someone to look over, but they have to follow the link to Imgur's website, scroll, etc., so that's not what you want if you just want to display a single photo in a forum post.  JUST CLICK THE "X".
 

 
 
9) Click on the SINGLE photo you want a link for, so it's full screen.  There will be a little icon at the bottom to share the image.  Tap that, and this time, you WANT to "Copy Link".
 

 
The link you just copied will look like this: https://i.imgur.com/Nxy6uJX.jpg   (note this ends in an actual JPG file and not some random string of letters like Google Drive, DropBox, etc.  THAT'S THE LINK YOU WANT!
 
I recommend pasting the link into a note (or email), if you want to collect a bunch of links all at once, otherwise if you're doing forums from your phone, you can paste that link directly into your forum post, and the forum will display the photo at that link.  Like magic!
 
Note: If you're alternating between your phone and a real computer:
 
Once you have uploaded the photos from your phone, you can do basically the same process, but on your computer.  Go to Imgur's website, log into your account, and you can see all the albums you have uploaded:
 
1) Click your account name in the upper right corner
 
2) Click All to show every album ("post") you have ever uploaded.  Find the album you want and open it. 
 


3) The easiest method I've found is to simply right-click the image (control-click on a mac, to right click) and choose to Copy the Image Location.  (Other browsers will phrase that differently, like "Copy image address" in Chrome)
 

 
Then, as before, just paste that link into your forum post and it will display the photo!
 
Enjoy!
 
One Warning: If you ever delete your account, or the photos from it, the photos will no longer display here on the forums.  All your posts will converted to broken image links that don't work, and especially if you kill an entire account, replacing every photo you've ever posted would be a pretty monumental task!  It's the ultimate "pail and shovel" move, so PLEASE don't do it!
 

Hi all, this is a long overdue update, IMO.
 
We would like to make some minor (yet major?) updates to the Bridge Crew CRL to clarify some items that have been unclear, and correct a few long-standing errors, in this costume's requirements.
 
https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:IC_imperial_bridge_crew
 
First, a little history:  The IOC's "Bridge Crew" costume is essentially (nearly) identical to the JRS' Reserve Pilot costume.  Arguably they are one and the same costume, but a decision was made long ago to basically allow the costume into both detachments, as a starting point.  Functionally, there's little difference, but clearly some are crew, serving on the bridge (or Death Star, etc) and doing various ship functions, and others are essentially regarded as off-duty TIE Pilots.  The distinction as to which is which is vague, however, in many scenes, so the 501st took a purposely vague approach that allows the two costumes to work in both Detachments.  We have no intention of dishonoring that long-standing decision, made many years ago jointly by IOC, JRS and LMO team leadership.  There ARE areas where the two diverge a bit... Crew who are sitting at consoles on the bridge, for instance, often do not wear gloves, whereas Pilots essentially always wear their gloves.  So for Reserve Pilot, those gloves are always required, but for Bridge Crew, they can be optional.  (If anyone has an issue with on the JRS side, please take that up with JRS leadership... we do not have any authority over their CRLs.)
 
For basic approval, this costume is pretty straightforward.  Rather than making multiple CRLs, however, or even tabs (which are treated as separate CRLs in the Legion database), it was decided that, for people seeking higher level approvals, specialization as a specific movie variant is required, using various optional components to demonstrate the specialization.  Again, current Detachment Staff is not seeking to change this, at all.
 
With all that said, these areas of the CRL are up for updates:
 
GLOVES:
 
This has been a long standing request, from a number of members, for some time.  As noted above, sometimes Bridge Crew is seen wearing gloves, and other times they are not, depending on the movie.  Also, sometimes the gloves can be seen relatively clearly, and other times, they cannot.
 
ANH: In ANH, Bridge crew is literally seen only in one shot, that I saw: When C3PO and R2 escape the Tantive IV in the escape pod, and one Crew person says to the other, no life forms don't bother firing.  Unless I missed one, running in the hallway sequences, that's literally it.  On the two we see, we can't see the code cylinders, compad, OR their arms.  No headset.  Everything is pretty much assumed, for this most basic costume version.
 
Thus, this is the base level requirement, used for higher levels if the ANH configuration is used entirely: "ANH: No gloves or compad, has no code cylinders, no headset."
 
ESB: In ESB, many Bridge crew are seen on the various Star Destroyers, seated at or standing before consoles, or walking around in general.  In the scene where 3 Destroyers nearly collide, working in "the pit" is a BC with 3 code cylinders and a headset, but no gloves.  Same with the scene chasing the Falcon (when the fly at the Destroyer, coming out of the asteroid field).  And some more during the Falcon chase leaving Cloud City.  No compads in any scene, as well.  Most had headsets, but not all.
 
Thus the ESB requirement (again, "requirement" only applies to higher level approvals): "ESB: Same as ANH [no gloves or compad], but with 3 code cylinders and may wear a headset."
 
ROTJ: In ROTJ, we see the Bridge Crew / Reserve Pilots lined up early on, when Vader arrives at DS2.  Compad and gauntlets, no code cylinders or headset.
 
Thus the ROTJ requirement (again, "requirement" only applies to higher level approvals): "ROTJ: Has gauntlets and compad, but no code cylinders or headset."
 
It's not completely perfect, but hey, the source is inconsistent, so we do what we can to make a system that makes some sort of sense, under the circumstances.
 
With that clarification and history out of the way, the actual change I would like to propose implementing, is simply to copy the JRS glove entry, to allow gauntlets with 3 lines on the back, the same way their CRL allows for it (but does not require it).
 
As discussed above, the only Bridge Crew seen wearing gloves are in ROTJ.  The gloves they wear in the one scene clearly have the lines in question.  Any other scenes, the glove type is unclear.  Based on that, I see no reason to restrict the use of the TIE Pilot gauntlets (which are also worn by a number of other characters, including the ANH Staff Officers) just because it's unclear... it could well be smooth OR lined, and we just can't tell.  This idea has been kicked around for YEARS (at least since 2018), and the reason given for saying no boiled down to "we can't tell for sure".  Current IOC staff takes the opposite view on that.  Given the many examples of various officers using those gloves, because we can't tell (except where we CAN tell!), how does it make sense to disallow that as an option?  We don't see a valid reason to restrict that, and would like to loosen that smooth-backed glove requirement, instead.
 
Again, this would be an OPTION, not the requirement (for an optional component, at that).  So the new Glove entry, for the basic level, would be:
 
 
I'm not reinventing the wheel here, I literally just copied the red text verbatim from the JRS Reserve Pilot CRL.
 
If anyone has a good reason to object to this change, please let us know.
 
BELT:
 
Belts, like rank bars, have a confusing history, in Star Wars.  In ANH, all belts were black on the outer surface only, showing raw leather on the edges and underside.  In ESB, they used many of those same belts, but also had a few officers with new black dip-dyed belts that had no raw surfaces visible.  (And a number which are not clear enough to tell which, as usual). Starting with ROTJ, they started giving officers new all-black belts which had grooves running along the top and bottom edges.  (Just to make things confusing, though, apparently they did still have a few of the original belts laying around, and some of the less-important characters seen in some scenes use those older belts, with visible raw edges)  Those grooved belts have been used ever since, for all subsequent movies and shows where Imperial Belts were used.  (Including Rogue One, Mandalorian, Kenobi, and Andor).  Plain-faced belts have not been used at all, in the non-saga era.
 
It's a small detail, but once you notice it, you pretty much spot it every time.
 
Additionally, I'd like to incorporate this into the CRL, as an actual Level 3 requirement (so this requirement would only be for people wanting maximum accuracy recognition for this simple costume), like this:
 
 
    L2 SUMMARY:
 
Additionally, I'll add a line at the beginning of this little Summary section, just to help clarify the reason for this, since some components are usually optional (but not for higher accuracy approvals):
 
"To qualify for Level 2 or higher approval, a specific movie configuration must be emulated, as described below:"
 
 
 
NEW L3 SUMMARY:
 
Finally, as there are new version-specific L3 requirements, we can add an L3 summary, like the existing L2 summary:
 
Summary of L3 requirements:
To qualify for Level 3 approval, a specific movie configuration must be emulated, as described below:
ANH: Belt is black leather with un-dyed (raw leather) edges, and no grooves along the top and bottom. ESB: Belt is black leather with either dyed or un-dyed (raw leather) edges.  No grooves along the top and bottom. ROTJ: Belt is black leather with grooves inset along the top and bottom edges.  
This will help further differentiate the three Bridge Crew variants.
 
Again, if anyone has a specific objection to any of these updates, please speak up here.

People ARE crazy right now.  But for people THAT crazy, a hat isn't going to make a difference.
 
That said, I've stated repeatedly from the start, that unless your in a large group of obviously costumed characters, the officer hat isn't a great idea for everyday wear, for ALL the reasons discussed in this thread.

I've been doing lots of work,  then a lot of waiting.
 
I looked at stills and pictures and all sorts of things and realized that in addition to the thighs are also asymmetrical unlike what the first image files led us to believe.
 
So I resculpted those in CAD to the best of my abilities and then will finish up the rest in post processing.
 
The outside of the thigh swoops at a much higher arc. The central trapezoid also bulges out more than any of the files, so I fixed that and hollowed out that section a bit to make it lighter. I had to add some ribbing to the bottom to get the actual shape because none of the files captured that.
 
 
 
CAD STUFF

 

 

 
Printed stuff


 
 

 
I also redid the central panel for the jetpack. Reshaped it in CAD made it stand alone, I'll grind or cut out the other section and replace it with to make it easier to hide seam work and I made some design improvements.
 

 
I'm waiting for the final right side piece to come out and my printed might be able to rest for a bit
 

This information has been a bit buried in the past, so let's bring it out for all to see.
 

Sadly no.  I think all new CRL development has been back burnered in favor of the giant CRL migration project, finally moving off the dying Wiki onto a new system.

Wow very informative as always sir and I really appreciate this reference lineup pic showing the contrasts between the different shades of white and especially the different fabrics in these coats. This will be immensely helpful in my future shopping runs for sure 🫡

 

Outstanding!  I know you want to look your best, and the shorter sleeves should be an easy fix.  And glad to head you have the right code disk already!
 
Soon as you're ready, take some new pics and you should be good to go.

Hi Kman,
 
(I admit I didn't notice the sleeves myself until I posted these pics and then looked at them later compared to ISB!  I will have the sleeves shortened).
 
I wasn't aware OT greeblies looked like a belt drive spindle on the side view!  Edit: I see what you are seeing now, I have several greeblies of different types kicking around and I must have put the wrong one on when I started attaching magnets to them all!  But I can confirm I have a hat greeblie that isn't grooved, it's like the CRL image for non-saga (stacked wedding cake). Happy to take new pics of that.
 
(Haven't been that happy with the blaster paint job lately (too weathered for an officer?), and have since learned a bunch about how blasters should be done so I am happy to primer fill and sand/repaint to eliminate the printer layers).
 
Thanks for the consideration re: the uniform materials, I've tried to retailor it to a better standard!
 
Cheers
-Aes
 
 

Hi Tom!  Thank you for your patience.
 
Level 3 Analysis: Imperial Security Officer (Non-Saga)
 
https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Temp-Imperial-Staff-Officer_(Non_Saga)
 
Hair and Appearance: No specific Level 3 requirements are present, and all Level 1 and 2 requirements are accounted for, as well.  Approved.
 
Hat: Right off the bat, we get into a bit of a conundrum.  Your code disc does indeed lack the notch, which is accurate.  But it also appears to be grooved, which is accurate for OT hats, but NOT accurate for non-saga hats.  See details here: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Imperialdisk.  At Level 2, this can be ignored, but at Level 3, I'm a little less certain.  I apologize for not calling that out during your Level 2 analysis.  Further, your hat is made of a lovely (and accurate) Cavalry Twill fabric... but your uniform is not, and the CRL calls for matching materials.  Again, while easily ignored at lower levels, especially with black, for L3 we tend to be a bit more of a stickler.  Given that the hat fabric is actually more accurate than the gabardine of the rest of the costume, I think I'll let that one slide.  The hat does have the correct wrapped-edge construction, as well.  I'm going to consult with staff and see how we feel about the code disc, however.  Hopefully that's easily swapped, and a replacement is not especially expensive.  Approval Pending.
 
Tunic:  CosplaySky's tunics usually do meet all 501st basic requirements, as long as the fit is correct.  Level 3 requirements of the snap closure and lining all present.  Level 1 and 2 requirements are also met.  And the tunic fits you reasonably well... although those sleeves are LONG.  Sleeves should be no longer than the base of the thumb bone, just past the wrist, not all the way to the knuckles.  Again, easier to let that slide at lower levels, but for Level 3, proper fit is an important part of this.  I'm going to consider this one along with the hat, and will get back to you.  Although that would definitely be a quick and easy tailoring job, to shorten the sleeves.  Something to consider.  Approval Pending.
 
Jodhpur Trousers: CosplaySky's jodhpurs are able to meet all 501st requirements, as long as the fit is correct.  Sometimes some reshaping of the flaps is needed, but yours have been tailored and are acceptable.  No specific Level 3 requirements exist for this item, and all Level 1 and 2 requirements are accounted for.  Approved.
 
Rank Bar: BaileyBuilds makes excellent rank bars.  No specific Level 3 requirements exist for this item, and all Level 1 and 2 requirements are accounted for.  Approved.
 
Code Cylinders: BaileyBuilds also makes excellent code cylinder replicas.  No specific Level 3 requirements exist for this item, and all Level 1 and 2 requirements are accounted for.  Approved.
 
Belt boxes: BaileyBuilds also makes excellent belt boxes.  Your metal belt boxes have the correct non-saga size and construction.  No specific Level 3 requirements exist for this item, and all Level 1 and 2 requirements are accounted for.  Approved.
 
Belt: No specific Level 3 requirements exist for this item.  Your leather belt has the correct grooves and coloration, and your buckle has the required curvature, meeting all Level 2 requirements, as well as basic.  Approved.
 
Boots: Your CrowProps black leather boots are the accurate style with a flat top, have the required adjustment strap, and have met all Level 2 requirements, as well as basic.  Approved.
 
Gloves:  Ravel makes great gloves.  Your black leather gloves have a plain back, accurate smooth leather, and adequate length required by Level 2, and the notch required by Level 3.  All Level 1 requirements are accounted for, as well.  Approved.
 
SE-14R Blaster and Holster:  Your SE-14R's base construction is ... ok.  There are definitely some visible layer lines, which are not supposed to be visible. But the rest of it is fine.  The blaster is optional so I'm not going to hold up approval over this, but you should probably put some more work into this.  The holster is perfectly fine, however.
 
So I cannot grant approval right this moment, but I will discuss things with the rest of the staff and make the final call.  Probably not right away, between Halloween and some other fires that staff has at the moment, but again, I'll try to give you a final determination sooner than later.

Since it has already been painted, you can probably just paint right over it.  Clean it with a quick wipe of isopropyl alcohol, and you should be ready to go.  Given the splatter on the other buttons (which matches the screen used references), you'll want to replicate that on the newly-painted parts.
 
The key to good paint jobs is prep.  Take your time masking it well (unless you have artist or surgeon level steady hands) so you don't get unwanted red elsewhere, and go to town.  You might want reach out to the Etsy vendor (about a discount, if they got it wrong, perhaps, or not as advertised) and has what paint they used for the red there, so you can be sure to match it.  I think Humbrol / Testor paint codes have been published for that, though, so if they don't respond, probably best to start there.

So...
 
Grabbed some new files. They Needed work
 

 
Re-sculpted the tops of the shins. Made it into two pieces, reshaped the front square to a trapezoidal prism. Re-positioned and redid the inner rectangular prism on inside of shin. Filled the space.
 
During the process got a leak, fixed that. Got back to work.
 
Started work on jetpack number 3
 
And I thought I'd hate redoing the shins...
 
Reshaped  front depressions, added some lines near the rear, added triangle fills to sections, created line that went around the trapezoidal center console, redid the lights, redid the tail section, reshaped it, added vents, added trapezoidal depressions. hollowed out as needed. Added trapezoidal depressions on top of pack, and triangular near the rear.
 
Created bolt points for joining, created door for easy access in inward side of the pack.
 
Will add some final shaping in the end.
 
 

 
POD- not pictured
Completely reshaped rear end to end in point instead of being flat, changed angle to achieve, re-did exhaust fans, hollowed sections out, added vertical scalloped supports. Will do some post printing processes creating inscribed lip on vent side. Will do that by hand, not quite good enough to do that in CAD, and doing by hand will be faster
 
 

So far, great draft!
I onto making this costume. I could find the glasses and restaure them, and also get a scanner with light, used by Dr. Pershing to exam the Child.I will have pictures soon!

Correct, 2 troops.

For those of us without a Chopper like Josh's, I suspect a simple box knife and good straight edge will do the trick nicely. (along with a fair amount of pressure)

KeepTrooping is a solid company, but they do share some of the downsides of non-local internet-based vendors who use offshore manufacturing.  Low costs is good, but limited flexibility is a price you pay, not to mention complex issues surrounding returns of "custom" items.
 
Necks are particularly tricky to fix with Imperial tunics, just due to the required construction.  You can't really put fabric back, once it's cut away, and the collars are thoroughly integrated into the tunic.  I'm not certain of the specifics of the situation you're referring to, but I have seen issues for sure, when there was some confusion about imperial vs metric measurements.  If you give them bad numbers, there's not a lot that can be done to fix the situation, unfortunately.  Nature of the beast, and I can see both sides' point of view on it.  But if you give bad measurements, it's not their fault and it's a rare vendor who will eat the cost of someone else's error.  OTOH, if the error is demonstrably on their side, I have a *reasonable* feeling that they would make it right, tho it make take some time.  (Note that's not the same as certain knowledge, LOL). So check, double-check, and triple-check, and I'd recommend sticking to Metric everywhere possible and making sure you make it clear to them you are doing so!
 
If I recall correctly, @Hoda owns officer tunics from all three vendors, and took this photo, showing KeepTrooping, Denuo Novo, and WampaWear, all next to each other.  Now that I look at this, I seem to recall that their fabric was a bit... weird.  Also: Apologies, I think I remembered the weird thing about their fabric wrong: It's not exactly a true Cav Twill, but some sort of hybrid, possibly, between a Cav Twill and a Gabardine Twill.  The weave is a lot more pronounced than the others.  I've never held one in hand, just had many conversations with others who attempted to describe it.  I saved this pic that Hoda took of his tunics:
 

@kman
@Theblueguy808
Quite frankly, I haven't given much thought about putting the blaster's model on the Internet or not.
If you like, I can send it to you privately (via e-mail or some other way - right now it weights about 100MB).
Long live the Empire 😎

I shared the files in another thread, but here you go:
 
Share the 3D file:
 
Admiral Thrawn Blaster Pistol(Ahsoka series) by Rivaskiy - Thingiverse

The KeepTrooping officer uniforms are decent.  The fabric they use is interesting... it's a real cavalry twill, which is good, but it's also the lightest version of that weave we've ever seen, and it wrinkles easier than most.  The overall construction is good, however, and they meet 501st specs across the board.
 
Trooping the uniform out of the box (after pressing it, of course) is going to depend on how well the fit is nailed.
 
Fit is going to be the main concern, however.  I'd reach out to them to discuss their best recommendations for sizing.  I thought they were full custom, and not off-the rack sizes, but perhaps that has changed.  If off the rack sizing, all the more reason to reach out to them to be sure you get the right size.

There are only 2 or 3 companies that make the boots with the straps (CrowProps, Noirtide, and Gladiator are the only ones I can think of).  They were custom made for the show (and R1), and "based" on historical boots, but not actual historical style boots, so unless someone is specifically looking for Star Wars replicas, you don't find this boot style elsewhere.
 
Fortunately the buckle doesn't need to be functional and it's pretty easy to add to "standard" officer boots, as shown in my thread above.

Thanks for removing the posts, yes that’s the one’s .
The people at the factory were amazing. They took us on a tour of the factory as well, I know it’s a lot of money but I had to get them form some were. They put my name and my ID number inside the boots.
I very happy with them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There are only 2 or 3 companies that make the boots with the straps (CrowProps, Noirtide, and Gladiator are the only ones I can think of).  They were custom made for the show (and R1), and "based" on historical boots, but not actual historical style boots, so unless someone is specifically looking for Star Wars replicas, you don't find this boot style elsewhere.
 
Fortunately the buckle doesn't need to be functional and it's pretty easy to add to "standard" officer boots, as shown in my thread above.