MichaelK

Thanks everyone! Thinking of doing a full length tutorial when I do my next (black) hat now, getting the details clear will be tricky though.
 
 
 
I had this pics of it worn, bud didn't initially post them due to their lack of quality. LtGarin is correct, once warn the seams get 'stretched'/'pressed' and the hat takes the appropriate conical shape.

 

DO NOT order the series 01-901 yellow push buttons, while they were once accurate, some years ago they changed them to opaque yellow instead of transparent amber.
 
 
 
 
The last page of this thread has further discussion on the amber, and series 31 push buttons:
 

DO NOT order the series 01-901 yellow push buttons, while they were once accurate, some years ago they changed them to opaque yellow instead of transparent amber.
 
 
 
 
The last page of this thread has further discussion on the amber, and series 31 push buttons:
 

A few thoughts...
 
1. The rain version will certainly be part of the same CRL, it will just be an option.
2. I'm guessing the flash back will be a version of an existing CRL, even if it's a variation of the ISB and say "or you can use this tunic".
3. I would agree that we shouldn't mention how the cape is attached, as it's not visible to leave it up to each person making it how they want to do it.

How about as its not seen how its done we lose the method of attaching the cape? 

Thanks so much everyone!!!

Congratulations to our new Detachment Leader
 

 
TK 4584 - Mark C Ryner [captsafe66]

If the fabric is the only difference between the two, and there's about 6 yards in the costume, that works out to over $160 a yard on top of the price for the standard line fabric's price, which is probably already $30 - $50. IMHO $200+ a yard fabric is ridiculous for anything in our hobby.

Thanks everyone! Thinking of doing a full length tutorial when I do my next (black) hat now, getting the details clear will be tricky though.
 
 
 
I had this pics of it worn, bud didn't initially post them due to their lack of quality. LtGarin is correct, once warn the seams get 'stretched'/'pressed' and the hat takes the appropriate conical shape.

 

The rose parade on is pretty good, our officer uniforms have definitely come a long way in the last 10 years! The HOAE definitely has all the best intentions, but is lacking in overall production quality.

I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.
 
 
 
Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html
 
This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html
 
After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.
 
In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

 
Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

 

 
Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

 
Instead of steps 12 & 13:
 
Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

 
Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

 
Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

 

 
Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

 
The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

 

 

(pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them )
 
Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. 
 
Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.
 
 
 
Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html
 
This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html
 
After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.
 
In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

 
Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

 

 
Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

 
Instead of steps 12 & 13:
 
Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

 
Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

 
Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

 

 
Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

 
The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

 

 

(pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them )
 
Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. 
 
Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.
 
 
 
Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html
 
This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html
 
After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.
 
In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

 
Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

 

 
Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

 
Instead of steps 12 & 13:
 
Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

 
Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

 
Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

 

 
Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

 
The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

 

 

(pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them )
 
Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. 
 
Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.
 
 
 
Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html
 
This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html
 
After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.
 
In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

 
Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

 

 
Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

 
Instead of steps 12 & 13:
 
Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

 
Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

 
Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

 

 
Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

 
The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

 

 

(pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them )
 
Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. 
 
Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

I had been seeing, and reading about the bias tape seen on the Officer's hat, and after seeing LtGerin's excellent hat, and Wombat's thread, I decided that I would have a go at adding it to the Cyberseams pattern, and make this guide while I was at it.
 
 
 
Unless noted, the remainder of the hat's construction fallows the original Cyberseams pattern and directions: http://cyberseams.com/article/104886/costuming/imperial_officer_uniform_hat_also_works_as_a_basic_cap_pattern.html
 
This is a good visual guide to bias tape: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2015/05/bias-tape-what-is-it-how-to-make-it-and-why-you-need-it.html
 
After choosing a size, cut out pattern pieces. Measure and cut off the 5/8" (15.875 mm) seam allowance from the notched edge of Flap patterns (I will continue to refer to this the notched edge). Flap interfacing should be even with notched edge.
 
In addition to the patterned pieces, cut 2 bias (cut 45 deg. to the grain) strips of 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) fabric long enough to cover twice the length of the notched Flap pattern edge (~18"/457.2 mm was plenty for XS). (a 45 deg. drafting triangle or folding should be used)

 
Fold and iron, using steam setting, the bias strips in half, then unfold and fold and iron edges to center crease.

 

 
Refold strips along center seam and press, the bias tape is now done. Fallow directions steps 1-11 for Visor and Crown.

 
Instead of steps 12 & 13:
 
Unfold one side of the bias tape, pin and sew along bias tape crease, right sides together, matching raw edge to notched edge of interfaced Flap.

 
Pin and sew, wrong sides together, Flap pieces 1/8" (3.175 mm) from notched edge,  ensuring bias tape does not get cought in seam.

 
Refold, and press bias tape over notched edge. Handstitch bias tape to the back piece of Flap.

 

 
Attach flaps as per steps 15 &16 and fallow steps 18-25 as per directions.

 
The finished hat: (Note: the hat will be more conical after a few minuets of wear)

 

 

(pardon the wrinkles in the crow seam, I still cannot seam to avoid them )
 
Let me know if anything is unclear, or if you know of a better way of doing anything. 
 
Mods feel free to more/pin/link as you see fit.

This thread should have just about everything you need to know about them:
In brief: yes they are approvable, most need some tailoring, their hat is not approvable, get extra fabric for one to be made.

Most use either 1/8" (3.175 mm) or 1/16" (1.5875 mm), by 1" (25.4 mm) bar stock, how the bars are joined at the back to form the double bars has much more variance and flexibility as to your preferred method of attachment.

We don't usually consider what we do to be "cosplay", per se.  The rules and guidelines established by the 501st to ensure unity don't necessarily need to be followed by someone who just wants to wear a costume at Cons and messing around with friends.  The expense involved in going ultra-accurate is a probably a lot higher than you're going to want to get into.  Unless you DO have aspirations to join the 501st, and are willing to spend what it takes to get an accurate costume?
 
CosplaySky is one of the cheaper vendors who produces relatively accurate costumes.  Their belt and hat are not acceptable for the 501st, but you may not care if you're playing at Cosplay rather than reaching for higher accuracy levels.  Boots tend to be the most expensive part, but again, if you're not planning to join, the cheap tall black Halloween boots (Funtasma) will convey the general idea.  Then just get a rank bar from someone on Etsy (not necessarily 501st acceptable, but fine for playing) and you're set.

This thread should have just about everything you need to know about them:
In brief: yes they are approvable, most need some tailoring, their hat is not approvable, get extra fabric for one to be made.

Well, having now read Tarkin, I'm going to have to take that back and say that gray is right for the time period Catalyst covers.

Michael,
San Jose! I love San Jose  My godfather used to live there - I visited a couple of times in late 70s early 80s. He's now moved to Morgan Hill
Sorry for the derail, so many great memories
Phil

Michael,
Yes as part of my research for my Executor submission, I worked with Pete Billups who'd discovered a behind the scenes picture of Captain Khurgee with the green gloves. We then studied the film and found the evidence of them, and spoke to Chris Muncke who confirmed it ('cotton parade gloves, dyed to match the colour of the uniform'). At that time it wasn't part of the CRL, so we got it added
 
It's all about moving forward and attention to detail
Phil

Your're such a tease Phil...


You even got matching gloves made!
 

Let us know here with all the details and pictures you have of it, most of the folks in the Detachment that have the authority to change CRLs frequent current topics. I'm also rather curious to see what you've found.

Did some tweeting with Glyn Dillon, and asked some of our lingering questions, here's his answers: